Chapter 21: Into the Heart of the Redwoods
Crescent City, California, to Potter Valley, California
The dawn again came early, and we hurried to the typical lackluster motel breakfast. We have fallen into this understood pattern, which has come from three weeks on the road, pushing on average 300 miles a day. It is a mixture of KOA cabins, Airbnbs and, for those short stops, the infamous motel. The Airbnbs have all been excellent. Our first Airbnb was in the shadow of the Great Sand Dunes of Colorado. We had one that was in the center of Monument Valley, the most insane kitchen view. The covered wagon we slept in after the horseback ride through the Grand Tetons was spectacular. Followed by the Airbnb in Washington after an insane jaunt across that state. And last night with the Airbnb in the vineyard in Potter Valley.
Airbnb has been an instrumental component. They often offer clothes washing facilities, stocked kitchens, and space to spread out and for everyone to get some privacy. Though I initially thought these scattered Airbnbs throughout the itinerary would be enough to keep up with our laundry needs, I realized quickly that I had miscalculated. Five people taking showers daily, and some wearing more than one set daily, created copious amounts of dirty laundry. So the laundry services at KOAs and motels began being used regularly. It has become a conscious part of planning as we move through the days. But I digress.
We departed Crescent City quickly, as we had gotten road-hardened to evacuating motels as promptly as possible. It is our least favorite type of nightly sleeping spot, with uncomfortable beds, sketchy vicinities and the occasional foul odor. So with the sun beginning to rise, we loaded up and pushed south on Highway 101. A few miles out, we pulled off to an overlook. We had climbed some feet in elevation. The rocky shore pounded with waves far below. In the distance, the crescent-shaped bay that lends the city's name curved northward, Crescent City hugging its farthest shore.
As we continued down the 101, the highway meandered through a tunnel of towering trees, and their green canopies filtered the morning light. The dense forest on either side was full of birdsong as we drove deeper into the redwoods. The highway occasionally curved back to the coast, giving fleeting glimpses of sweeping sea views. The day was warm, the kind of way when the sun first hits a cool coastal pocket in the coming dawn. It was a beautiful morning ride.
Our first stop was at the entrance sign for Redwood National and State Parks, just a few miles south of Crescent City. The sign stood against the backdrop of ancient trees and marked the beginning of our adventure. We gathered for a family photo, the kids, and let's be honest here, me, bubbling with excitement.
Redwood National and State Parks, established in 1968, came out of conservationists' efforts to protect these majestic forests from the rampant logging of the early 20th century. The park encompasses over 138,000 acres of diverse ecosystems, including the world's tallest trees, the mighty coastal redwoods, or Sequoia sempervirens. These trees, some of which are over 2,000 years old and can reach heights of more than 370 feet, have become symbols of resilience and the icon of northern California. Some of these trees were alive in the days of the Roman Emperors. That is a wild thought. Establishing the park was crucial in preserving these ancient giants and the biodiversity that thrives in their shadow.
The history of Redwood National and State Parks is deeply intertwined with the indigenous peoples who have inhabited the region for thousands of years. Tribes such as the Yurok, Tolowa, and Chilula have long regarded the redwoods as sacred living entities and have developed a profound connection with the forest. Their traditional practices and ecological knowledge have helped maintain the balance and health of these ecosystems. Today the parks collaborate with these tribes to honor their cultural heritage and protect their ancestral lands.
Over the decades, Redwood National and State Parks have become a sanctuary for wildlife and for visitors to these ancient forests. The parks are home to diverse flora and fauna, including endangered species like the northern spotted owl and the marbled murrelet. The parks also offer a glimpse into the past, with remnants of historic logging operations and early conservation efforts evident throughout the region. The combined efforts of federal and state agencies and passionate conservationists have ensured that the redwoods and their surrounding ecosystems will continue to inspire future generations.
Continuing our drive, we soon reached the Wilson Beach Overlook, a vantage point with an impressive view of the Pacific Ocean. The coastline stretched before us, with rugged cliffs meeting the blue water. We stepped out of the car to take in the view, and the salty breeze carried the sound of crashing waves up to our perch. The overlook provided a perfect spot for another family photo. The ocean was dotted with rocky outcrops and shimmered under the clear sky.
After the Overlook, we continued down Highway 101. A few miles further, we pulled over at another scenic spot to capture a different view of the coastline. This one looked out over the Pacific Ocean, with craggy rocks jutting out of the water and wildflowers carpeting the foreground.
A familiar scent caught my attention as I breathed in the fresh coastal air, an unmistakable aroma that took me back to my younger days working in fine dining kitchens. I turned to see a fence line full of wild fennel, with feathery fronds and yellow blossoms swaying in the breeze. The smell was intoxicating, sweet and slightly like licorice, and it brought a rush of memories. Fennel is known for its culinary and medicinal uses and has a long history. Its bulb, stalks and seeds are all edible and used in various dishes worldwide. In the kitchens where I once worked, fennel was a prized ingredient, its unique flavor elevating everything from salads to roasted meats. The seeds in particular were often used to infuse oils and sauces with a distinctive anise-like note.
Standing by the roadside, surrounded by the familiar scent of fennel, I was transported back to those busy kitchens. I remembered the clatter of pots and pans, the heat of the stoves and the meticulous preparation of meals. I was taken aback by the almost instant transportation to another time and place the fennel growing by the roadside had caused. It was a surreal reminder of the many paths that had led me to this road.
After our scenic stop to admire the fennel along the roadside, we continued south and soon found ourselves at Wilson Beach. Diem and I decided to stroll along the shore while the girls sat in the van. The beach stretched before us with its dark sand and rugged coastline. We strolled along the beach and the waves crashed gently against the shore. The cool ocean breeze was refreshing and carried the salty tang of the sea and the occasional cry of a distant seagull. We found a large driftwood log and sat for a while, gazing out at the horizon. As we sat together, the vastness of the ocean and the beauty of the rugged rocks rising from the water filled me with a sense of peace and reflection. The morning sunlight sparkled on the waves. It was a beautiful moment.
Continuing our journey along Highway 101, we soon arrived at Trees of Mystery, a renowned roadside attraction in Klamath, California. The massive statues of Paul Bunyan and his blue ox, Babe, towered over the entrance. Paul Bunyan stood an impressive 49 feet tall and his axe spanned 27 feet, while Babe looked equally imposing beside him. These iconic figures set the whimsical tone of the place and blended folklore with the redwoods. Excited to explore, we took some time to pose with the statues. The girls gathered around the towering figures, smiling and laughing. The giant bear statue also drew their attention and made another fun photo opportunity. The larger-than-life characters made me feel like a kid again.
After our impromptu photo session, we made our way to purchase tickets for the Trees of Mystery. Then we walked through the entrance and into the Trees of Mystery, following the winding trails through a forest of ancient redwoods. The towering trees created a canopy high above their immense trunks. Diem and the girls were taken with the lush greenery. At one point, we paused by a pond with the foliage reflected in it.
As we continued along the path, we encountered a statue of Bigfoot. Diem couldn’t resist posing with the legendary creature, and her laughter echoed through the trees. The girls meanwhile found delight in every twist and turn. Their energy and curiosity meant we had to keep pace or be left behind. Each new sight and statue became a backdrop for their playful poses and imaginative stories.
The forest trail wound beneath the towering redwoods, their branches draped in moss and ferns. At one point, Maggie struck a dramatic pose, looking up in awe at the giants above. The sheer scale of the trees was humbling, a statement of the incredible natural history we were walking through.
We stopped at the base of the Trinity Tree, a staggering 297 feet tall, with bark textured by centuries of growth. Diem posed beside it with her arm outstretched in admiration, and the sheer scale of these ancient giants was revealed. The Trinity Tree's height was humbling.
Further along, we began our ascent into the canopy, climbing a wooden staircase that wound through the trees. With each step, the world below became more distant, replaced by the rustle of leaves and of small creatures in the underbrush. Here, I fell back into a more defensive stature at the back of our group. Heights have never been my thing, and dangling from a couple hundred feet above a patchwork of concrete switchbacks climbing the mountain underneath, nothing looked like it was worth breaking a nasty fall. Cue up, knees a little shaky.
Diem led the way, her figure dwarfed by the immense trunks surrounding us, ever adding to the dizzying view in every direction. The higher we climbed, the more we felt like explorers in a hidden world that few get to experience from such a vantage point. I figured I would be the whining, "Have we checked this bridge for durability?", kind of comic relief. As I did here, I tugged on a few support ropes and gave the wood a good check with my foot outstretched before placing any weight on any structure around me.
As we stepped onto the suspended walkway, we were transported into a scene straight out of a fantasy. The narrow bridge swayed gently, satisfactorily secured with ropes, and well-built supports fastened directly to the mighty redwoods. Platforms connected by these bridges created a network among the treetops, reminiscent of the Ewok villages from "Star Wars." From this height, we could truly appreciate the dense, thriving ecosystem these trees supported and the scale of how far down it was to the hard, surely death-causing ground below. The air was cooler and fresher and filled with the scents of pine and earth. The large structure spanned many trees across the park. It was an impressive attraction, a fantastic walk through the canopy suspended high above the forest floor, though my shaky knees never overcame the dizzying heights.
After descending back to ground level, we gathered at the base of a towering redwood and took a selfie. The towering trees framed our faces, and their immense height made our figures look small. The sunlight filtered through the leaves onto our group. It was a fantastic moment.
Continuing down the path, we stopped at one of the giants, a redwood that stretched toward the sky. Its bark was rugged and timeworn. As we stood beneath it, the sense of history and time was palpable.
We eventually came to the Sky Trail Shuttle, an innovative cable car system designed to transport visitors through the canopy of the redwood forest to the mountaintop. The bright green gondolas stood out against the earthy tones of the forest and promised an exciting ride. As we prepared to board, I read a sign explaining that each shuttle can carry up to six passengers and has a weight limit of 1,058 pounds. The design allows continuous movement and a way to explore the treetops without disturbing the natural environment. These cable cars offered a unique vantage point, gliding smoothly through the air with panoramic views of the redwoods. The system, designed for safety and enjoyment, at least that's what the pamphlet said, was a marvel of modern Swiss engineering. As we ascended, the forest below became a sea of green.
We eventually came to the Sky Trail Shuttle, an innovative cable car system designed to transport visitors through the canopy of the redwood forest to the mountaintop.
The Sky Trail Shuttle gently lifted us above the forest floor and through the canopy. It was an enjoyable ride, and from this aerial perspective the vastness of the redwood forest became even more apparent. The trees stretched out in all directions. As we ascended, the tops of the redwoods swayed slightly in the breeze. The air was crisp and cool and filled with the earthy scent of pine.
We reached the top of the cable car ride and stepped onto a wooden platform with a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. The platform was small and sat high among the treetops, and from there we could fully appreciate the scale of the redwoods. I could have peered out over the forest to the ocean for hours. A weathered sign welcomed us to "Ted's Ridge." The sign had simple lettering and rough edges and a standard park feel, built into the natural surroundings. It was a quiet marker of our journey to reach the top of the mountain.
We gathered for another family photo with the dense forest and distant ocean behind us. The girls smiled brightly. It was a moment of pure happiness. One hell of an accomplishment among many on this insane undertaking we have taken up. Three-quarters of the way into our grand adventure, here we stand amidst the beauty of the redwoods.
After taking in the views from Ted's Ridge, we began our descent back to the forest floor. The return trip on the cable car offered a different perspective and let us see the details of the forest below. As we glided down, we could spot birds flitting among the branches and catch glimpses of wildlife moving through the underbrush. We descended from the Sky Trail Shuttle and again found ourselves among the redwoods. The sheer size of the ancient trees was humbling, their immense trunks rising toward the sky. The forest floor was covered in ferns and moss, and the soft earth cushioned each step as we followed the winding path, eager to explore more of the woods.
Some of the towering redwoods were charred and hollowed by past fires but stood resilient, their bark weathered but strong. Light continued to filter through the canopy onto the green foliage surrounding us.
Continuing along the trail, we passed a large fallen tree, its roots exposed and entwined with ferns and small plants. This natural bridge offered a perfect opportunity for the girls to explore and marvel at the root systems that supported these giants. It was all so incredibly charming. As we ventured deeper, the path led us to a tranquil grove where the redwoods stood in close formation. Diem and the girls walked ahead, their figures small against these towering trees.
Looking up, the redwoods appeared to converge high above, their branches intertwining to form a canopy. This perspective made me feel even more connected to the ancient forest. The air was filled with the earthy scent of the woods, a mixture of pine and damp soil. There was something spiritual and ancient that seemed to radiate all around us. We paused frequently, taken with the natural beauty that spread out in every direction.
As we neared the end of the Trees of Mystery trail, we came to intricate wooden carvings depicting scenes from Paul Bunyan's life and adventures. The carvings were rich in detail and craftsmanship and brought the legendary lumberjack's tales to life. There were the images of Ma and Pa and Paul's cradle, scenes of Paul growing into a man and the images of his famous blue ox.
Our path led us to an unexpected yet amusing sight, a giant wooden sculpture of a mosquito, aptly named "Mosquito Rex Redwoodyus." It stood tall among the ferns and drew giggles from the girls. The blend of natural beauty and quirky art installations made our walk through the Trees of Mystery entertaining.
At the trail's end, we found a large wooden slab inscribed "I LOVE YOU." The message was carved into the aged wood and felt like a fitting conclusion to our adventure. Diem and the girls posed playfully beside the carving. Before heading out, we quickly stopped at the gift shop, where I found an entire collection of my shirt, a classic red and black plaid design, embracing the lumberjack spirit of Paul Bunyan.
With the giants successfully explored, we jumped back on Highway 101 and continued southward, leaving the towering redwoods behind. The road curved through the hills and valleys. There were a few more ocean views before we left the coast behind.
The scenery shifted subtly as we drove, and the dense forest gave way to more open vistas. Rolling hills of golden grasses dotted with clusters of trees stretched out on either side of the highway. I can't believe it's been 21 days. How crazy am I? 28 days, three women, a little girl, and a van. It's a mad proposition. Yet, here we are. So much accomplished.
As we cruised on, the sun climbed higher. Each bend in the road revealed something new, from steep rocky inclines to gentle sloping meadows. Occasionally we would spot a lone farmhouse or a grazing herd of cattle. The drive was both soothing and invigorating, with the hum of the tires on the asphalt. And on we marched. Approaching the outskirts of Redwood Valley, the landscape began to change once more. The hills grew steeper and the road wound through increasingly rugged terrain. Tall trees framed our path, their branches forming a green tunnel over the road. I could sense the eagerness to see what awaited us in this stunning part of Northern California.
We turned off Highway 101 at Lake Mendocino, heading towards Potter Valley. The road became narrower and winding, under a canopy of green branches. The scenery shifted from the dense forests of the redwoods to the open, sunlit valleys. It was a peaceful drive, and the air grew warmer and carried the faint scent of ripening grapes. As we entered the heart of California's renowned wine country, the change in atmosphere was palpable. Even the local gas stations had shelves lined from floor to ceiling with countless varieties of bottles. Seeing so many wines in an everyday setting showed how integral wine was to the local identity and economy.
The landscape of Potter Valley unfolded before us, with vineyards stretching as far as the eye could see. Neatly ordered rows of grapevines stood perfectly symmetrical, their green leaves glistening under the afternoon sun. It was the gardens of the gods, the land of Dionysus. The rolling hills in the background had gentle slopes, the ideal terrain for viticulture. It was easy to see why this region was celebrated for its wine.
We arrived at our Airbnb in Potter Valley, so you know this one will be good. It was a charming retreat among rolling hills and lush orchards. The kids wasted no time exploring the open space, and their laughter echoed through the landscape. Our van, parked in the driveway, became our base of operations as we unpacked and settled in. It was the perfect spot to unwind after a day of travel, with the mountains behind our temporary home. Taking a stroll around the property, we found rows of fruit trees laden with ripening apples and pears. The air was fragrant with the sweet scent of the orchards, a delightful contrast to the coastal breezes we'd left behind. The quiet road leading to the farmhouse was lined with orchards and vineyards, and there was the distant hum of farm equipment.
In the distance, we spotted a small vegetable garden tended by a local farmer. Rows of leafy greens and blossoming plants hinted at the quality of the fertile soil. Nearby, red roses climbed a trellis. The scene was idyllic. As we returned to the house, the setting sun cast long shadows across the vineyard. And so it was, day after day. We would find ourselves staring into something that we couldn't look at long enough, yet every moment was fleeting. It was the nature of our quest, 28 days and 300 miles every day. And though it's sad in some ways, there are so many places we would have loved to stay longer, yet another place is always waiting to be seen tomorrow.
The property had a nice array of cooking equipment and a few bottles of complimentary wine, and I started a nice dinner of Beef Bun, grilled short ribs, roasted half duck, buttered crab, salad and roasted veggies, all that comes with a gourmet meal among the vineyards. The living room had a vast collection of DVDs, and after dinner, we settled in for a family movie night. The family disaster vacation movie RV, starring Robin Williams, seemed appropriate to us now. Sleep would come quickly as the night faded. It had been another incredible day beneath an endless sky.
To explore some of the Parks and Monuments we’ve showcased and more, click here for the National Park Service.
