SeaTac, Washington to Montesano, Washington
I awoke this morning with a particular enthusiasm. Several events on our trip were more for me than the rest of the crew, and today included one of those moments. The day began with the groggy hum of the alarm clock at 5:30 am, its insistent beeping pulling me from the comfort of my bed. The girls were bleary-eyed and tousle-haired and reluctantly stirred, vigorously protesting the early start. It took some coaxing to get everyone back in our trusty, self-modified van, yet we set out long before 7. It was still dawn in Seattle as we navigated the quiet streets toward downtown.
Our first stop was a quintessential Seattle experience, a visit to Starbucks. The rich aroma of freshly brewed coffee wafted from the drive-thru and provided a much-needed jolt of energy. With a hot cup in my hand and iced coffee in the others, we headed next door to Krispy Kreme, where the promise of sugary donuts brought smiles to everyone's groggy faces. We navigated through the quiet morning streets of downtown Seattle and arrived at Pike Place Market just after 7 am.
The parking lot was surprisingly empty and offered a prime spot right next to a vibrant mural celebrating the Seattle Storm. The larger-than-life portraits of the team's champions loomed above us and immediately captured the girls' attention. They posed for pictures, their sleepy faces now lit with excitement. The colorful graffiti and dynamic street art around the market added to the energetic vibe of the morning. As we secured our parking spot, I felt a sense of anticipation for the day's adventures in this iconic locale.
It was a cool, cloudy, misty Saturday morning in Seattle, and few people were on the street. The lot was a few blocks from the Market and waterfront, allowing us to walk the city. The city's gloomy air was penetrating and gave it a unique feel. The morning air was cool and crisp as we set off on foot towards Pike Place Market, and the city was slowly coming to life. The sounds of distant traffic and the rustle of leaves in the breeze floated by. The girls walked ahead, their steps light and eager. We strolled past modern glass buildings next to older brick structures. As we approached the market, the streets began to slope and offered a glimpse of the waterfront in the distance. The anticipation of exploring the market and the promise of fresh finds and local flavors quickened my pace.
As we reached the entrance of Pike Place Market, the iconic red neon "Public Market" sign greeted us against the overcast Seattle sky. The market already had an early morning buzz. From our vantage point, we could see the waters of Elliott Bay, dotted with ferries and framed by towering cranes. We wandered past charming alleyways like Post Alley, where colorful storefronts and quaint cafes beckoned. The girls eagerly pointed out the various stalls beginning to set up for the day. The energy of the market was infectious, and we felt a surge of excitement as we prepared to immerse ourselves in it.
With some time to spare before our reserved market tour, we took the opportunity to wander and explore the market around us. As we entered Pike Place Fish Market, the air was filled with the scent of the sea and the lively shouts of fishmongers tossing fresh catches across the counter. Just a few steps away, vibrant bouquets of peonies in various shades of pink and white brightened the stalls, and their sweet fragrance mingled with the salty sea breeze. The market’s energy was palpable, with vendors setting up displays of glistening seafood. Meanwhile, locals queue up for a hearty breakfast at the many iconic restaurants.
We continued to meander through Pike Place Market, soaking in the atmosphere and colorful displays. One of our first stops was at a flower stall, where buckets of fresh, fragrant blooms came in purples, pinks and yellows. The girls posed for photos, smiling. As we wandered around the market, staying close to the gathering spot for the tour, we marveled at the variety of produce available, with heaps of fresh vegetables, exotic mushrooms and vibrant fruits neatly arranged in enticing displays. The energy of the market was contagious, with vendors cheerfully calling out their wares and customers hurrying about, gathering ingredients for dinner or mise for a local restaurant's menu. I hadn't felt this much excitement in a market since wandering the wet markets of Southeast Asia. It was awesome to see.
As we waited for our market tour to begin, we couldn't resist sampling some of the local delicacies. Mee Sum Pastry caught my eye with its display of tantalizing treats. The BBQ pork sticks and chive shrimp chicken dumplings looked too good to pass up. We indulged in the light breakfast, savoring each bite. The dumpling was particularly tasty, and we enjoyed our impromptu snacks as the tour time grew closer.
We gathered at the meeting point for our tour, which was fittingly marked by Rachel, the iconic bronze piggy bank statue that stands guard under the famous neon sign of Pike Place Market. She is an active piggy bank, and between $6,000 and $9,000 is deposited in her slot every year in currencies from all over the world. These funds are collected and put into the general market fund for upgrades and repairs. The girls eagerly posed for photos with Rachel, their laughter echoing through the morning crowd. Beneath our feet, we noticed the bronze hoofprints embedded in the pavement, each one inscribed with the names of market supporters and contributors. The atmosphere buzzed with anticipation as our tour guide, a lively woman with many market stories, began her introduction. Her enthusiasm was infectious, and we were soon immersed in the history and tales of one of Seattle's most beloved landmarks.
Founded in 1907, Pike Place Market draws 10 million visitors annually, making it the most visited attraction in Seattle and the 33rd most visited site on the planet. It was conceived as a way to bridge the gap between farmers and consumers and was established during a period of economic hardship when middlemen were driving up prices. On its opening day, August 17, 1907, a crowd of eager shoppers turned out to purchase fresh produce directly from the farmers, leading to a resounding success that solidified Pike Place Market's position in the heart of the city. Over the years, the market has grown and evolved into a hub for fresh produce, local crafts and unique culinary experiences, all while retaining its original mission of supporting local farmers and artisans.
In 1942, Pike Place Market faced a profound and tragic change with the execution of Executive Order 9066 during World War II. This order mandated the forced relocation and internment of Japanese Americans, including many of the market's vendors and their families. These hardworking individuals had contributed significantly to the market's community and economy and were abruptly uprooted from their lives and livelihoods. In 1940, over two-thirds of all the stalls in the Market were owned by Japanese Americans; today, there are none. Their absence left a noticeable void in the market, both economically and culturally. This dark chapter in the market's history is a reminder of war's long-lasting and unintended consequences.
Throughout its history, Pike Place Market has also shown the resilience and spirit of the Seattle community. In the 1960s, the market faced the threat of demolition due to urban development plans to modernize the downtown area. However, a grassroots movement led by citizens who valued the market's historical and cultural significance sprang into action. Their efforts culminated in a successful public vote in 1971, preserving the market and leading to its historic district designation. This victory ensured that the market would continue to serve as a gathering place for locals and tourists.
As we went deeper into the market's history during our tour, we learned about the diverse array of vendors who have called Pike Place home over the decades. The market has always been a melting pot of cultures, with immigrant families from around the world setting up stalls to sell their goods. This diversity is reflected in the market's offerings, from fresh seafood and organic produce to handmade crafts and international cuisine. Each vendor's story adds to the enduring appeal and charm of Pike Place Market. The market's commitment to inclusivity and community has made it a microcosm of Seattle's broader cultural landscape.
As our tour progressed, we encountered some of the more unique and quirky attractions that Pike Place Market has to offer. One such gem was the Pike Place Magic Shop, a delightful throwback adorned with vintage posters of famous magicians and illusionists. The window display was filled with vintage ventriloquist dummies, and their slightly eerie yet fascinating expressions offered another example of the market's eclectic charm. The dummies, dressed in various colorful costumes, seemed to tell their own stories, albeit odd and slightly disturbing. The shop's nostalgic decor took us back to the era of vaudeville, with shelves full of magic tricks, juggling equipment and gag items. The whimsical atmosphere contrasted starkly with the busy market outside and offered a brief but fascinating glimpse into the world of magic and illusion that has charmed visitors for decades.
We ventured onto a rooftop garden that provided a refreshing break from the market's lively pace. From this vantage point, we enjoyed panoramic views of the waterfront, with a massive cruise ship docked nearby. The garden was peaceful, with various plants and flowers bright against the gray Seattle sky. A fence at the edge of the garden was adorned with round charms attached to each link, each charm etched with the name of another family or individual who donated to the preservation of the market. It was a perfect spot to pause and reflect.
One of the most visually striking features of Pike Place Market is the colorful fish mural. The mural is covered with a multitude of brightly painted fish, each bearing the names of local businesses and private supporters, and celebrates the community's enduring connection to the market. With its whimsical designs and lively colors it was a joy to behold and showed the market's collaborative and inclusive nature. It was another example of how Pike Place Market has thrived through the contributions of countless individuals and businesses since its creation.
Our tour led us to one of Pike Place Market's most infamous and unconventional attractions, the Gum Wall. Tucked away in Post Alley, this peculiar landmark is exactly what its name suggests. It is a brick wall covered entirely in chewed gum of all colors and sizes. The girls were both fascinated and slightly repelled as they stood before the candy-colored wall stretching down the alley. The sticky spectacle began in the early 1990s when theatergoers waiting in line started sticking their gum to the wall. Over the years, it has evolved into an ever-growing, interactive piece of urban art. Standing amidst this unorthodox display, we couldn't help but marvel at the creativity and sheer volume of contributions from visitors worldwide.
One of the more charming stops on our tour was the iconic bookstore in the subfloors of Pike Place Market. It was a haven for book lovers and pop culture enthusiasts alike. The shelves were crammed with an eclectic mix of books, graphic novels and quirky merchandise. We found a delightful display featuring memorabilia from classic movies and TV shows, with magnets with memorable quotes from "The Princess Bride" and original script reproductions from beloved productions like "Monty Python and the Holy Grail" and "Seinfeld." The bookstore was cozy and inviting, with something to intrigue every visitor. The girls were particularly amused by the whimsical magnets, each one sparking a discussion about favorite movie moments and lines.
The most iconic tradition at Pike Place Market is the famous fish throwing at Pike Place Fish Market. This lively spectacle began as a way to entertain customers and create a memorable shopping experience. The fishmongers' playful banter and impressive skills in tossing large fish through the air have become a signature attraction, drawing crowds from around the globe. As we stood there, watching the fish fly and hearing the crowd's cheers, it was clear that Pike Place Market is a living part of Seattle's identity and more than a place to shop. It was here that our tour concluded. We took the opportunity to procure fresh seafood and vegetables for our dinner tonight on the other side of the peninsula and bid our farewells.
After exploring Pike Place Market and filling our bags with souvenirs, fresh produce, and seafood, we went to the docks for the car ferry to Bainbridge Island. The ferry was busy with vehicles and passengers crossing Puget Sound. We navigated through the maze of parked cars, found our spot, and stepped out to stretch our legs and take in the experience. The girls, bundled in hoodies against the morning chill, couldn't contain their excitement. As the ferry departed, we gathered on the deck and watched Seattle's skyline fade into the mist. The city looked majestic and mysterious in the soft gray fog. We snapped photos of the iconic skyline with its skyscrapers and the famous Ferris wheel.
After the ferry ride and the drive down Highway 101 under a sky heavy with rain, we finally reached Port Angeles, the gateway to Olympic National Park. The day's activities had exhausted everyone, so it was just Maggie and I who ventured into the park. The park's rustic entrance sign greeted us. Despite the dampness and fatigue, the air had an invigorating sense of anticipation. We set off on a trail into the lush greenery and the fresh, earthy scent of the forest, eager to explore the ancient wilderness that surrounded us.
The ancient forest of Olympic National Park, located on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State, is one of the most pristine examples of temperate rainforest in the world. Here, towering Sitka spruces, some of which are over 300 feet tall, and Western hemlocks that have stood for over a thousand years form a lush green canopy.
Some parts of the forest date back thousands of years. The Olympic Peninsula was largely untouched by glaciers during the last Ice Age, allowing ecosystems to develop in relative isolation. This has resulted in a unique blend of flora and fauna, some species of which are found nowhere else on Earth. The Hoh Rainforest, one of the park's most famous areas, receives over 140 inches of rain annually, fostering a dense understory of mosses, ferns and lichens that carpet the forest floor and drape from the branches above. This gives the entire area an otherworldly feel. The history of the Olympic National Park is deeply intertwined with the indigenous peoples who have called this land home for millennia. The Quinault, Hoh, and Quileute tribes have rich cultural traditions and a profound spiritual connection to the forest. They have long depended on its abundant resources for sustenance and have passed down stories that speak of the land's sacredness and their harmonious relationship with nature.
In modern times, the forest's untouched beauty and ecological significance were recognized in 1938 when President Franklin D. Roosevelt designated it as a national park. Today, Olympic National Park is a sanctuary for countless species of plants and animals and also a place where visitors can step into a living museum of natural history.
As we walked deeper into the park, we passed towering trees with moss on their trunks. Some of the trees in the forest had been saplings in the time of the Roman Emperors. This fact alone was simply astonishing. Ferns carpeted the ground, and fallen logs were covered in a delicate layer of moss. The earth was soft and damp under each step. Maggie was fascinated by the intricate patterns of lichen and the small, hidden habitats within the decaying wood. The quiet of the forest and the distant call of birds were a stark contrast to the busy market we had left behind.
One particularly striking sight was a massive fallen tree, its trunk split and weathered by time, now serving as a bridge for smaller plants and insects. Maggie paused frequently, taking pictures and marveling at the forest's details. Her excitement was infectious, and together we discovered hidden nooks and fascinating textures. It was a moment of calm reflection amidst our busy travels.
One particularly striking sight was a massive fallen tree, its trunk split and weathered by time, now serving as a bridge for smaller plants and insects.
As Maggie and I continued our hike through Olympic National Park, we were enveloped by the dense canopy of trees. The forest had every shade of green imaginable. Ferns unfurled at the base of ancient trunks, and moss-covered logs crisscrossed the forest floor over clear, bubbling streams. The air was cool and damp and filled with the earthy scent of rich soil and decaying leaves, a welcome escape from city life. We came across a large fallen tree that lay across a narrow stream and formed a natural bridge. Maggie eagerly climbed onto the log and balanced carefully with her arms outstretched for stability. The sound of the water flowing gently below added to the serene atmosphere, and dappled sunlight filtered through the leaves. It was a moment of pure joy.
The trail led us further into the heart of the forest, where the trees grew even taller and the underbrush thicker. We passed by massive tree stumps, remnants of ancient giants that had fallen and now provided a home for new life. One particularly large stump, hollowed out and draped with moss, looked like a natural cave. Maggie couldn't resist peering inside. As we climbed a gentle slope, the trail became more defined, with wooden steps leading us higher into the forest. The sheer size of some of the trees was awe-inspiring, their roots twisting and turning into the ground. Maggie paused frequently to take photos of the details of bark and leaves and the play of light and shadow.
The forest trail led us to a clearing where a gnarled, hollow log lay like a natural tunnel, its opening draped in a fringe of moss. As we stood there among the ancient trees, the world's worries felt miles away. Maggie's eyes sparkled with wonder, and in that moment we both felt a profound connection to Olympic National Park.
From Mt. Olympic, we pushed intensely west down the 101 until it turned south near Forks. Here, we turned south for the last time. There was a quiet moment when I contemplated this achievement. In silent reflection, I drove along in the spontaneous rains and dreary, damp scenery. We still had over 10 days to go. But here, on the other side of the country, we begin our long drive home. Every mile we push from this moment forward will get us closer to home. We have reached the geographical apex of our journey. Everyone was fast asleep as we bounced down the lonely highway while I reflected on what it all meant. What was there still left to see? Quite a lot, as it turned out.
After an eventful day of exploration and adventure and a long drive across the peninsula, we finally reached Montesano. As the sun began to set, we turned our attention to the bounty we had gathered from Pike Place Market. The fresh seafood lay waiting to be turned into a feast, and the anticipation of the meal ahead brought a sense of satisfaction. The kitchen buzzed with activity as we prepared our dinner. The crab, lobster tail and fish were carefully seasoned and cooked to perfection, and the aroma of seafood filled the air along with the fresh scent of herbs and spices. Alongside the seafood, we prepared mussels, sautéed vegetables, grilled short ribs and a hearty pot of rice.
We gathered around the table. Plates were filled with succulent crab legs, buttery lobster and tender fish, and each bite was a celebration of the flavors of the Pacific Northwest. The mussels, steamed to perfection, added a rich, briny depth to the meal. Fresh vegetables in greens and reds provided a crisp contrast.
As we enjoyed the meal, the conversation flowed easily, filled with laughter and shared memories of the day's adventures. The fatigue of the long day melted away with each bite, replaced by a warm sense of togetherness and in my case, accomplishment. This dinner, made with the freshest ingredients and shared with loved ones, was the perfect culmination of our day.
To explore some of the Parks and Monuments we’ve explored and more, click here for the National Park Services.
