I woke shortly after sunrise to a very quiet condo. I missed the sunrise by probably an hour. Sunrise is ruefully early in Vietnam. So I made a cup of coffee and enjoyed the scene in a peaceful reflection. Knowing that at any moment the house would burst alive with reckless anticipation for the day’s activities. At least so I thought. I heard Diem’s alarm go off from the open balcony door to our room. A clear indication that 6:30 had arrived. Access to Hòn Tre island began at 8:30. And though I knew we probably would not be the days first to arrive on the island, I expected to be close. The island was home to one of the best amusement parks in Southeast Asia, there was much to do.
Diem began to get herself ready as I began gathering supplies and preparing a backpack for our impending journey. Sunscreen, fully charged backup batteries, towels, chargers, swimsuits, changes of clothes, everything a family may need for a long day on an adventure island full of entertainment and fun. By 7:30 we had still not heard a peep from the girls room, so Diem had to go and almost pry them up and out. I wasn’t really sure if they knew the scope of what the day ahead held in store. Though they would soon find out.
A little Coffee and Off We Go
By 8:30 we had made our way to the coffee shop on the ground floor of our building and purchased coffee, drinks, and a light breakfast while discussing the day’s activities. I sometimes find immature and childish humor in things that seem completely ridiculous to those around me. The coffee shop was no exception. I took a picture of one of the bags of coffee they were selling retail at the shop, and I’ll just put that right here.
Shortly after we finished our coffee, our taxi arrived and we were off south to the cable car station. Though both are beautiful coastal cities, Nha Trang has a very different feel than Da Nang. Almost a third the population of Da Nang, but over double the population density. This gives Nha Trang, a city of barely 500,000, a compact, metropolitan feel. Of course Da Nang is also the shipping, industrial, educational, and financial center of Vietnam. Giving its tourism side a background melody to its overall complexity. The de-facto capital of central Vietnam as it were. Nha Trang is all tourism. Giving the city an electricity and vibrancy you don’t always get in Da Nang. This quite surprised me.
The Ride South
As we rode south in the morning light, the full scope of the polished city came into view. It had of course been nightfall when we arrived. But now the immaculate topiary that lined the streets, and beautiful parks the flowed down the beach was, and I hate to say this, far superior to the boardwalks and beach parks in Da Nang. And that really surprised me. Not to say that Da Nang has sub par facilities, it’s a beautiful city with beautiful beaches and facilities. But I guess when your only focus is tourism, that’s what you do.
The Cai River
We crossed over the mouth of the Cai river about halfway through the city. The river splits the city in two, and the mouth of the river serves as a safe harbor for fishing boats, and other seaborne vessels. With mountains on three sides, and mountainous islands on its fourth side across the bay, Nha Trang is one of the most protected harbors in Vietnam from Typhoons and strong storms. As we came closer to the the park entrance, a heavy down poor developed. It would in most circumstances have dampened hopes of a positive day. But, in spring in Vietnam these things tend to be short lived. We pulled up to a small shop front, and a lady came to greet us at the car. She would be our guide through the gates. A nice perk that often comes with such things in Vietnam.
The Park Entrance
Our guide slid over a typical plastic poncho one sees in abundance in the Vietnamese rain, jumped on a motorbike, and sped away towards the entrance. Our taxi struggled slightly keeping up as she whizzes in and out of the cars and buses flowing in and out of the entrance. Which marked the southern edge of the peninsular part of the city and its marina. She waited in line for us, purchased our day passes and round trip tickets on the cable car. With everything we needed, and a backpack full of supplies, we made our way to the loading gates.
Vinpearl Cable Car
I’m not sure what the Vietnamese fascination is with cable car gondola systems, but they have some of the most impressive, beautiful, and record breaking ones in the world. The Ba Na hills cable car near our home in Da Nang boasts several Guinness records. I assume it has something to do with a bit of affection towards their period of French colonial rule. As the French treated many mountain cities like alpine retreats. Creating some incredibly rich alpine cities in the mountainous heart of Vietnam that are beautiful, yet very un-Vietnamese in architectural design. And often seem at times out of place in the dense jungle mountains of Indochina. In this regard Da Lat comes to mind.
Though not possessing any Guinness records of it’s own, it is claimed to be the longest cable car over water, the Vinpearl cable car is a must if you ever find yourself in Nha Trang. From Nha Trang station, the 8 passenger gondolas whisk you away up to about 380 feet above the Caribbean blue waters of Nha Trang Bay. Carried between seven Eiffel inspired towers, another nod at French Colonial past, over two miles across the bay. To settle down at Hon Tre Island station, and the entrance to an island wonderland.
The Cable Car Ride
A Late Morning Snack
We made our way out of the station and up a tiled path towards the park. A beautifully ornate castle style gate stood near the entrance and found an eatery nearby to fuel up before a long day exploring the island. A typical restaurant you would find in a theme park, we ordered our food and found a table overlooking the park section and Nha Trang Bay. The clouds were slowly dissipating from the morning shower, and the view was as beautiful as one could expect.
King’s Garden
After a quick snack we continued further into the park coming first to the King’s Garden. A well maintained, and impressive zoo. Not the largest zoo I’ve been too by any means. But the animal’s habitats were clean, and well maintained. The entire park I would find, was as clean as any theme park I have ever visited. Maintained to the level one expects from Disney parks.
The Aviary
The first exhibit in the zoo is a pond with pink flamingos. Which immediately reminded me of Zoo Atlanta, as it is also the first thing one comes to. We stopped for a few pictures before making our way into the aviary. An impressively large structure. The aviary was filled with ponds, walk through caves, and a variety of habitats to house quite an array of bird species.
From storks nesting on man made perches to the talkative Hill Mynah. A fascinating Southeast Asian species of bird, the hill Mynah has an uncanny vocal mimicking ability on par with that of the grey parrot. Our uncle in Khong Chro has a hill Mynah pet that I tried to talk to on a visit to the mountain town. Unfortunately for me, it only spoke Vietnamese.
A Trip Into The Past
We made our way through the aviary and came to a bird species that immediately transported me through space and time to English Lit class circa 1993. I stared at the bird. But my presence was in a desk among old piers, in a cramped classroom, in the northern end of Newton county High School. The bird was the Scarlet Ibis. A short story of the same name, written by James Hurst, and published in the Atlantic Monthly in July of 1960. It has become a regular among High School literature classes since it’s publication. The short story left such an impression in my subconscious, that as I stared at the crimson bird I was taken in an instance, to a place I had forgotten long ago.
The Plains of Africa
We continued on beyond the aviary into a section of the zoo representing Africa. It had your typical attractions. Giraffe, zebra, gemsbok, ostrich, an array of deer species, an impressive herd of white rhinos, and of course a lion exhibit. The girls were quite impressed with the giraffes, and we even enjoyed a quick feeding time for a very up close and personal look.
The African exhibit faded into Arabia and eventually Asia. Housing a caravan of camels, that I found to be quite snobbish among their subspecies. A group of double humped bactrian’s lay in the prime shade far from people, lazily eating away. As their single humped dromedary cousin sat alone in the only other shade near the edge of the enclosure. Dealing with the constant parading of gawker’s and loud children.
From Monkeys to the Exotic
The zoo has a rather impressive collection of native monkey species. Monkeys are almost as common in Vietnam as squirrels are in North America. Especially if you venture out of the cities. But even in Da Nang, one of the largest cities in Vietnam, it isn’t uncommon to find a few roaming macaques looking for an easy meal. With 24 species native to Vietnam, spend any amount of time in the country, and you are bound to see one.
Something that I find incredibly interesting, and often humorous, are exotic zoo exhibits in Asia. The America’s are about as exotic as one can get, if one is native to east Asia. Here the most exotic of animals were the North America deer species. Something that gave me a chuckle. It was even more humorous when I explained how the majestic and docile creature was one of the deadliest in North America.
The World Garden
We completed the rounds through the King’s garden, and took a short lunch break near the botanical gardens. Not yet hungry from my late morning snack, I took the time to charge my phone while Diễm and the girls enjoyed a little Chao and stir fried noodles. The restaurant is between the zoo and the entrance to the Gardens.
A beautiful sprawling southern Asian traditional wooden structure right in the middle of a lotus pond. With several dining sections connected with bridge style walkways with the domed garden houses in the background. The season was in its infancy, so the lotus were just beginning to bloom amidst the giant water lilies. It was a beautiful scene, and a great place to fuel up and rest for a while.
An Autumn Wonderland
After our lunch break, we made our way into the botanical gardens. It would prove to be, in hindsight, my favorite part of the park. The first exhibit was the domed greenhouse visible from the restaurant. Labeled cold weather blooms, we stepped inside to an instant chill. Especially in contrast to the above 80 degree temperature that had built outside. It was a very refreshing break for myself, but I could tell it was a bit of a shock, particularly to the girls.
An Incredibly beautiful rainbow of flowers in art. A symphony of reds, oranges, yellows, and violets, which flowed over the lush green canvas beneath. It really was an immaculately kept garden. With a few art pieces depicting flowers as water flowing from a faucet, or cascading down from wooden barrels. We explored the autumn wonderland as the girls became restless. Running around in what I assumed was an unconscious attempt to warm up in the almost frigid garden.
A short lesson on Vietnamese weather patterns.
We emerged from the garden to a rain shower. Short lived, as they usually are in coastal areas of Vietnam. Unless, of course, it’s the rainy season. In which case, it doesn’t stop raining for months. However, on any given day the mountainous nature of Vietnam’s coastline combined with mountain islands just off the coast, as this one, create a perfect scenario for showers that can at times, seem to come from nowhere.
As the humid air blows in from the sea, the high pressure ridges created by the coastal mountain ranges, combined with the cooler temperatures near the mountain tops causes a two fold phenomenon. The pressure forces the moisture in the air to condense and cause seemingly instantaneous cloud formations. And the cooler temperatures and pressures at altitude forces the newly formed clouds to dump their moisture. It’s an interesting phenomenon, and why even on the sunniest of days in Da Nang, there’s almost always clouds over Son
Son Tra mountain.
Da Nang itself is often spared these daily coastal showers, as the mountainous Cham islands take most of the rain. And what gets past them is usually absorbed by Son Tra. But here on Hòn Tre Island, at random periods throughout the day, a pocket of particularly moist air will hit the island and dump some rain. But it always was just that, rain. Which is particularly nice. Coming from the Southeastern US where thunderstorms are as common as sweet tea and peach cobbler. Now that I think about it, I can’t recall seeing lightning or hearing thunder in Vietnam. Just unfathomable amounts of rain.
A jaunt in the rain
After leaving the refreshing cool house, we scurried down a very winding path, towards the next greenhouse in the building rain. Decorated flower laden archways, one after another, and lined with beautiful blooming plants. I’m sure in any other situation it would have been a beautiful walk. But I think I speak for the entire party when I say today, the path could have been straight and maybe even covered.
A Parched Paradise
In short order we made our way into the second section of the garden which was part indoors and part outside. We made our way inside first to a dry, hot, arid world. This entire section was devoted to the arid grasslands and dry habitats of the world. From the deserts of North America, arid steps of Patagonia, the Savannah’s of sub Saharan Africa, the desserts of Arabia and Central Asia, and to the scorched earth of the Australian outback, it was the most impressive display of succulents, cacti, and dry weather plants I had ever seen.
It was truly impressive. I discovered there to be two greenhouses devoted to the climate, as well as the rather large outdoor exhibit. The first house, and the outdoor space contained the main showpieces of the exhibit. While the second greenhouse served as a nursery for future main attractions. As well as a small version that would soon be on sale in the gift shop. The main spaces housed some incredible specimens. From Joshua trees, the iconic Sonoran Saguaro and prickly pear of the North American desert regions. Iconic Baobab, Quiver, and Marula trees of Africa. A number of varieties of Oasis palms and shrubs from Arabia. And an almost endless array of small spiny cacti, and succulents in various shapes and sizes from all over the world. It was in total, one of the most impressive botanical exhibits I’ve ever experienced.
The Land of the Rising Sun
After quite some time exploring the world of the hot and arid, we continued on in the gardens to what is probably an essential element of any Botanical Garden in Asia. A Japanese tea garden. Again, a quick shower began as we made our way into the expansive Japanese landscape, and the girls were showing signs of fatigue. We found a nice dry place for them to rest, and Quan and I made our way around the beautiful and well manicured grounds. Everything you would imagine in a Japanese fairytale garden.
A beautiful red Japanese style bridge crossing an immaculate coy pond amongst rolling verdant hills. Populated with cherries, rhododendrons, Japanese maples, countless varieties of Bonsai from small to large, pagoda style pavilions, carved table and chairs from solid stone, as well as a rock garden. All articulately and artfully manicured. The grounds additionally included a classical Shinto shrine gateway known as a Torii, and a traditional tea house at the highest point and center of the garden complex.
The Tea House
I made my way around the gardens and came to the Shinto Torii gate. The gate sat between the tea house to the east and the far end of the island and the open sea to the west. It was really a remarkable view. I stood in a little reflection, as I’m often to do, and made my way to the tea house. Traditionally built, the house was complete with paper sliding doors, and bamboo matted floors. It functioned as part museum and part operational tea house. Exhibiting a traditional set up of a table floor and arrangements for tea, as well as a tea bar at one end where you could sit and order a classic cup of Japanese tea.
I took some time taking in the scene. The entire grounds of the garden were incredibly impressive. So far every exhibit we had explored had been impressively maintained and just beautiful. But, I felt I had been gone long enough exploring this small section of the entire complex. Having left the girls in the dry protection of a shaded area, I made my way back to gather everyone and make our way further on. There was still much more of the park to explore.
Underwater World
The Show
As we left the zoo and garden area that sat high upon the hillsides overlooking the rest of the park below, we made our way towards the area known as the underwater world. A miniature SeaWorld if you will. We made our way to the seaside amphitheater and made our way in to find seats for the Dolphin and Sea Lion show. It was a typical day in the southern part of central Vietnam, and I for one, was incredibly happy to be seated, near water with a cool breeze, and in the shade. The show began with an introduction and educational segment with a couple of Sea Lions. Followed by a great exhibition of the abilities, grace, and beauty of the pacific white sided dolphin.
The animal trainers were a collection of marine biologists from around the world. The entire section was definitely designed to bring awareness of conservation of the oceans and freshwater habitats. The crew hailed from Australia, the Philippines, and a few other accents I couldn’t quite make out. The girls were definitely captivated by the performance. These things are a relatively new thing in Vietnam, within the last decade or so. So I think it should be worthy of some very specific discussion.
Conservation and the developing world
I personally think that, after living for much of the past three years in Vietnam, that it barely qualifies as a developing nation. The cities are modern, with amenities one would find anywhere in the world really. And though the countryside may still, in some ways, live a more agrarian lifestyle. Where things like air conditioning are not always common. It is not without internet, satellite television, Lays potato chips, or Coca Cola. But one must understand that in places like the US where it’s shores have seen peace and prosperity for a very long time in global terms. Vietnam has seen peace in it’s time only in the last few decades.
With a constant state of either war or occupation for, in very real terms, millennia. I have come to understand this idea that there is a structural progression that civilizations go through during their existence. When peace is sustained, and basic public needs are met, then societies can focus on nonessential works. In Ancient times civilizations used these periods often for expansion, and conquest. In modern times these periods seem to be used for causes like environmental conservation, tackling pollution, protecting wildlife, peace among nations, and preserving habitats.
A necessary progression
I know things like animal shows such as these are often frowned upon by many individuals, and even myself in many instances. I don’t particularly support Sea World or the captivity of Orcas, or their showcase as attractions. But understand that their conservation and attention came from those very exhibitions. And so it is here, in Vietnam we see these very early stages of understanding and the beginnings of movements to preserve habitats, tackle pollution, and protect endangered species. To begin the process of empathy with our fellow inhabitants of this world, it often begins with bringing them out of the pages of books and the two dimensional distance of the screen. To make them real, and in a sense, more human.
The Aquarium
After the show we made our way through the aquarium, and one of Vietnam’s first tunnel aquariums. Now, being from Georgia, the aquarium was impressive for Southeast Asia. In the end I think it was one of Su’s favorite things in the park. And it was a real treat for the girls watching sharks swim overhead. The collection of species over all was impressive enough. Moray eels, sharks, a few local fish species, and a hands on turtle exhibit. But by now it was pushing well into the afternoon, and that seaside water park was calling everyone to come hither. It was by now, hot, humid, and the only thing anyone wanted to do was take a plunge.
Water World
The entrance to the water world was just outside the aquarium exit. So, it was a very short time from cruising the underwater exhibits to jumping in a refreshingly cool lazy river. Now, I want to point out that the names I am providing for the different sections of the park are not mine. But rather the translated names the park has given them. As simple as they may be, World Garden, Underwater world, Water world, they are quite functional. The water park was expansive. offering plenty of slides, a wave pool that never stopped, kids water playgrounds, and a beach area complete with a water obstacle course. Just to enjoy the refreshing waters and spare myself the worry of toting a phone around, I left in the locker with our belongings.
Diem did slide hers in a waterproof sleeve, so we did get a few shots for the memory books. But mostly we just enjoyed a fun time in the cool waters of the park. Something that I will say gave the park an additional A+ as far as the water park was concerned, is that the water slides, lazy river and other aquatic joys all run on salt water systems. With the exception of the kiddy wave pool. Which did offer the usual water park dose of chlorine. In fact, every pool, water ride, or anything of that nature we’ve ever enjoyed in Vietnam has all been salt water systems. To the point that we spent only a few minutes in the chlorinated kiddy wave pool before everyone was ready to leave the area. When you’ve never swam in chlorinated water, it’s a bit much to handle.
The obstacle course
Eventually we made our way to the beach and the Japanese style game show of an obstacle course that sat just offshore. We had peered down onto the massive inflatable plastic behemoth from the heights containing the zoo and gardens. From there it looked mild and tamable. Neither of these observations turned out to be accurate. Diem didn’t even bother. Xu wasn’t big enough, so they played at the beach while Su and I attempted to conquer the seemingly docile course. We were fitted with life jackets, finding one for myself took some digging on the lifeguards part, and we were set loose. It took all of about five minutes for us to get halfway across the first obstacle, cry for mercy, turn in our life jackets, and make our way back down the floating dock to Diem and Xu.
We spent some time playing on the beach, and the water was Caribbean Blue. I swam quite a distance out and upon reaching the spot where I was standing on my tiptoes to keep my shoulders at the water’s surface, I could still see my toenails as if there was no water in between. The rain came and went a couple of times while we were in the water park overall. But with no lightning or thunder, nothing was ever shut down. It was actually incredibly fun floating around in the cool tropical rain. Any sense of being hot and exhausted soon faded in the cool rain and warm waters of the sea.
Dinner and the Wonders at night
As the afternoon continued to fade, everyone was becoming tired and famished. We made our way back to the lockers and showers, cleaned up, and headed to find dinner. Again, the price of admission came with meals, and we sluggishly made our way to the fairytale section of the park. Complete with kids rides, arcades, and restaurants. It again began to pour just as we found the Coral restaurant and ducked quickly inside. We had a couple of choices of family combination meals, and Diem ordered accordingly.
In short order the table was filled with braised mackerel, Vietnamese caramelized pork and eggs, steamed vegetables, fresh fruit, rice, salad, broth with mustard greens and ground pork. It was about all I could do at this point to raise chopsticks to my mouth. I was about kaput. I think the girls were too. It rained as we ate, and when we emerged from the restaurant night had fallen. The cobblestone streets had just enough water to get some really beautiful mirror shots of some of the buildings newly lit up in the darkness. Just outside the restaurant was an antique carousel, and we all loaded up for one final hoorah.
Home to the Hotel
It was the longest five minute walk to the cable car station, my legs were done. We boarded our car and made the two mile ride back over the bay. The towers were lit and the scene was beautiful and calming. It was an incredibly busy day, but a wonderful one. I think tomorrow’s pace may be a bit more relaxed. Though I was hoping to catch a few historical sights around the city. But now it was time to go home and sleep. The taxi ride to the Hotel was almost silent. It was about as exciting of a day as one could have.
The girls didn’t make it home. I think everyone was either asleep or almost there when the taxi pulled into the portico at the hotel. We stumbled thought the lobby and carried the girls to their room. It was all I could do to shower off the day’s sweat. I collapsed on the bed and was out in seconds. Tomorrow was a new day, and there was still much to do in the beautiful city by the sea.
Click below for a few of our articles on other parks and sites in Vietnam.
Ba Na 2020 Ba Na, and the Hai Van Pass 2019
Click here for a series of articles from our time in Da Lat. A beautiful alpine city in the heart of Vietnam’s central hightlands.
Click here or the VinWonders website to check out all of their properties across Vietnam
