The land of Cobbler Elves

There had been some issues with some passports at the Atlanta airport, and a member of our party was delayed by several days coming to Da Nang. Unfortunately, he had a few pairs of Tina’s shoes in his luggage so Tina was a bit disabled in the foot covering department. So we were headed to the land of cobbler elves. I was going for other things, but I entertained their shoe fairing expedition and was soon entertained myself.

Con Market

It was impressive as we walked into the land of cobbler elves. There had to be an army of magical elves in the back, cobbling shoes. I could not further explain how so many shoes could have been acquired in one central location. If you didn’t see what you wanted, someone magically appeared from seemingly nowhere with yet more shoes. Each stall was painstakingly stalked by its attendant. Move too much one way, you are told to move the other way. Too far, and you are moved back again. The land of the cobbler elvesThe land of the cobbler elvesThe land of the cobbler elvesThe land of the cobbler elves

I don’t mean to be any kind of way here, but there is enough room for one female local to walk between the isles of endless shoes. All would have to yield if I followed my companions down the alley. Yet they didn’t. People who barely came up to my chest put their fingertips on me ever so slightly and maneuvered me to just where I needed to be for them to pass. Every move in this market was calculated and controlled. Each stall owner had a tiny plastic chair in the left corner for them to sit on while negotiating and for customers to sit on while trying on. Pick up a shoe and turn around; you may inadvertently add it to the neighboring stall’s inventory. The rules were strict, the expectations were clear, and I had no idea what was happening. Tina found the shoes she was looking for. I was thankful for that, and we headed to the food side of the market.

The smell hits you like a slap in the face. You can’t tell if it’s alluringly delicious or something has gone horribly or rottenly wrong. The vendors are relentless, and I learned to keep my mouth shut, ignore most, and let my guides do the talking. Every stall I walked by came with a point and generic expression. I was public ripoff target number one. Little did they know I suffered from momentary deafness and dumbness. I couldn’t speak Vietnamese, English, or anything for that matter. The deep looks of confusion that filled their faces as I played ignorant were kind of humorous. I had been warned, and my companions kept me in order. I marveled at the stacks of fresh fruits, multicolored eggs, dried herbs, and sugary sweets. There was even a food court. It was so foreign to me. I was in such awe at its options of culinary oddities that I forgot to take any pictures. No, let’s be honest here, I was intimidated. I’ve got time. She won’t be the last Market I step into. She was merely my first.

As we exited the market and stepped onto the street, awaiting the cab we had called, I was squirted in the back by a stream of water. As I snapped my head around in instinct, in my peripheral vision ever emerging from my quickly pivoting head, I saw an old Lady squatted with a basket of fruit in front of her. She was among many other women squatting on the corner with their conical straw hats. Only she was ending a quick, purposeful movement to conceal the spray bottle she had just shot me with. It was obviously an attention-grabbing tactic as she began to say something to the effect of, hey, since you’re looking in this direction, buy some fruit! I was taken a bit back by the brazenness of her business tactics, but before I could respond, my companions pushed me into the Taxi that had pulled up without me noticing, as I was transfixed on this rude old lady, and again we were off down the hustling streets of Da Nang.

We headed back to the hotel as the hours of the sun were thinning out. I sat in the window as the jungle warmth gave way to a cool breeze. I reflected on the day and watched the sky reverse its morning routine. This time, the light did not swallow the darkness. Instead, it retreated to its nightly resting place as the darkness filled its vacancy and the bright lights of Da Nang’s nightlife began to fill its empty spaces. I laid down on the bed, and sleep came without interruption for the first time in days.

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