The Imperial City of Huế

A Quick Lunch

Our next stop was the old city, but first we had to get lunch. Everyone was understandably hungry, it had been a long hot morning wandering the historical sights. So after leaving the Linh Mụ Pagoda, we headed into the newer section for a nice lunch. We stopped at a beautiful little restaurant called Cơm Niêu Nguồn. Inside an old French villa, the restaurant had beautiful architecture and some delicious food.

We ordered a few dishes, caramelized fish, thinly sliced pork belly, rice, and shrimp soup. We sat enjoying the air conditioning and recharged for our afternoon push. It was time to finally enter the citadel and see the purple forbidden city on the Perfume river. I had waited almost two years to see the stronghold of the old Nguyen Lords. It was now time.

Entering The Citadel

We again loaded in the taxi, well worth 30 dollars for the day, and made our way towards the Citadel. We crossed over the Perfume river on the Cầu Trường Tiền bridge. A gothic-style steel bridge built in 1899. Once across the river we turned left onto Tran Hung Dao, the southeastern section of the street that circles the city. We shortly made a right turn onto Cua Ngan and made our way through the Ngan gate and into the citadel.

A Brief History

Huế stood as the stronghold of the Nguyen Lords and the capital of their imperial dynasty for over 400 years. Established as the center of their growing influence in 1525. With the ascension of Nguyễn Hoàng, the first Nguyễn Lord. His descendants would grow the family’s influence until the final creation of Imperial Vietnam by Emperor Gia Long in 1802. One of his first projects was the modernization of the city’s defenses. In addition, he began the construction of the Imperial forbidden city, the citadel, and many of the structures that can still be seen today.

The Imperial city would stand in its magnificence for more than 150 years. Until the last Emperor, Bảo Đại abdicated the throne to  Hồ Chí Minh and his Viet Minh forces on 25 August 1945. Though part of the agreement for peaceful abdication was that he would remain as “Supreme Advisor” to Hồ Chí Minh. The nation was split in two and devolved into rapid conflict following the Second World War. The capital of Ho’s newly minted Democratic Republic of Vietnam was then moved to a more defensible location in Hanoi.

War Comes to Huế

Huế would become a strategically valuable city as the French campaigns, and eventual American campaigns bore down on the region. Located approximately 40 miles north of the Hai Van pass, an imposing natural barrier that divides the north from the south, it became one of the most valuable pieces of property during the war. With Da Nang just south of the pass, a stronghold for American forces, Huế was invaluable in importance. If the US army controlled Huế, then they controlled the Hai Van Pass, and the ability to move troops and machinery freely into the north.

For the majority of the war, American and South Vietnamese forces occupied Huế. Only 31 miles south of the demilitarized zone established by the Geneva conference of 1954. It served as a base for forward operations, a naval supply hub, and a lifeline for supplies and reinforcements to US forces in the region. As well as shutting off access to the south, thus forcing the establishment of the Ho Chi Minh trail. A jungle road, built through Laos and Cambodia that bypassed the Hai Van pass. The only supply line for Viet Cong and the North Vietnamese Army forces operating in the south.

Huể is All But Lost

For much of the war, Huế remained peaceful. Spared destruction by US policy to preserve the historical citadel and the northern army’s apprehension about attacking their cherished city. All of that changed on the 31 of January 1968. It was Lunar New Year, and many south Vietnamese soldiers were on leave visiting their hometowns. With much of the ARVN, Army of the Republic of Vietnam, and the main defending force for the city on leave, the city was left poorly defended.

Earlier on January 30th, before the Tết offensive went into full effect, North Vietnamese and Viet Cong divisions began to attack Nha Trang and Qui Nhơn some 250 miles south of Huế. This did cause the cancellation of leave for many ARVN soldiers, but they were too far spread to have any immediate effect. In addition, this premature attack also diverted resources and men south to help with the defense of the southern cities leaving Huế even more exposed.

The Tết Offensive Begins

At 2:33 am on the morning of January 31, 1968, a signal flare rose into the pitch-black sky over Huế. It called into motion the offensive against the American and South Vietnamese forces occupying Huế. The PAVN, People’s Army of Vietnam, 6th regiment advanced on the city. It would be the beginning of the longest battle of the Tết offensive. Whereas most battles lasted a week or two, and in many cases less, the battle for Huế would drag on for 31 days.

The PAVN would initially overrun the city and drive out the allied forces. With an American policy of preserving the historical city combined with weeks of bad weather, artillery and air support for the American forces proved impossible. The immediate result was northern forces overrunning and taking control of the citadel and the allied counterattack stalling. For 15 days the stalemate pressed on.

A Decision that Echoes Through Time

By the 16th of February American Marines were losing a man for every 71.5 feet of ground gained. The city’s strategic and symbolic importance made giving up not an option. During the day of the 16th the allied Generals of the region, American Generals Abrams and LaHue, Vietnamese General Trưởng, and South Vietnam’s Vice President Nguyễn Cao Kỳ met to discuss the situation.

Nguyễn Cao Kỳ, on the authority of the South Vietnam’s President Nguyễn Văn Thiệu, approved the taking of the city of Huế at all costs. On the evening of February 16, 1968, heavy artillery and offshore naval barrages began. The impact was immediate and the tide of the stalemate turned. By the morning of February 22, the allied forces had all but retaken the city. The last shots of the Battle for Huế would echo through the battered city on March 2nd.

History Lost

As the dust settled and the aftermath began to be assessed, the collateral damage was clear. Of the 160 protected historical sights that stood inside the walls of the citadel and forbidden city, only 10 remained. Over 400 years of history had been wiped out in a matter of days. It is a testament to the destructive nature of war. A lesson on how the decisions of only a few can affect the future of civilization. Time should be the only thing that acts as the eraser to the chalkboard of history. Through its slow and erosive powers of wind, rain, and new growth.

But today I have come to Huế to piece together what was left. To stare into history and see what I could find, to see what still remains of the once magnificent Purple Forbidden city. Even though much is in ruins, I can assure you there are still some beautiful and awe-inspiring things to see. So after this brief history lesson, let us return to today, and what is left of the Imperial city of Huế.

The City’s Layout

Huế is a very beautiful and well-planned city. The Perfume river serves as the outer moat of its main side and the city sits in an unusual southeast orientation. Most cities in the Chinese Confucian sphere, such as the forbidden city in Beijing, sit at a true north-to-south layout. Canals were built off of the river to form the rest of the large outer moat that surrounds the city. A long island, about 100 yards in width, sits between the outer moat and the inner moat. This island would serve as housing and businesses just outside the main walls.

The inner moat also runs the perimeter of the city and rests against the massive citadel walls. The main citadel wall is simply awe-inspiring. Built by a peasant class and engineers of a not yet industrialized Vietnam, The outer wall stands at an imposing 20 feet in height, is 6.2 miles in length, and an astounding 69 feet in width. In the center of the southeastern wall stands the flag tower. An impressive sight indeed. The flag that rests at its center can be seen for miles and is always a presence in the skyline around the city. The area inside the main wall is referred to as the citadel and serves as the old city.

The Purple Forbidden City

Inside the main wall on the southeastern side of the city sits a large parade ground known as quảng trường ngọ môn. A very large area that would have been an area used for festivals, parades, and other events held by the imperial courts for the commoners. On the far end of the parade ground from the flag tower is the inner moat. This particular moat is perfectly square and only encompasses the southeasternmost central section of the citadel. It is the moat surrounding the Purple Forbidden City.

On the inner side of this mote sits another wall, approximately 20 feet in height as well. Though only a few feet thick, this wall surrounds the heart of the citadel and was home to the Imperial family. Past the moat and directly in line with the flag tower sits the main entrance to the Forbidden City. Known as Ngọ Môn, or meridian gate, It is a truly impressive sight rising on an otherwise flat plane.

Ngọ Môn – Meridian Gate

Ground Level

This building ranks on the top 10 list of most impressive historical buildings I’ve seen. Construction was completed in 1833, and the palace gate is almost an exact replica of the forbidden city’s gate in Beijing. The gate is classic Nguyen construction, which borrows many of its architectural sensibilities from Chinese Confucian design.

Comprising two levels. The ground level is more fortification in design with heavy, thick brick walls. The gate consists of a long central section and two wing sections on each end. In the center of the gate sits three large doors. The center is the largest of the three and is only used by the Emperor himself. The two smaller doors to each side were for the entrance of Mandarins, lesser family members, and officials. In each wing sits an arched doorway used for commoners who have come seeking an audience with the Emperor or to pay homage.

Second Level

The second level of the gate was more palatial in nature. Again, consisting of a long hall along its length, this was reserved for the Emperor, his family, and closest advisors. From this vantage point, the Emperor could view military parades, observe troop movements and make appearances to his subjects gathered on the parade ground below. The two pavilion wings served as viewing space for Mandarins and lesser court officials.

The second level additionally contained a small “third floor” used for advanced observation. A position that offered a clear view over the main wall and into the surrounding area. The Second level is beautifully constructed of heavy wood and Imperial yellow ceramic roof tiles. The vibrant reds and yellows of the woodwork itself, combined with the intricate sculpturing of the roof decorations, make for a beautiful building.

Let’s Go For A Walk

The taxi dropped us off just inside the Cua Ngan gate of the main wall. As we exited the car we were faced immediately by 4 of the 9 holy cannons. I began to walk towards the cannons when Diem called me back. The taxi driver had done his job, there was only half an hour left in our agreement and I knew we would be in the citadel longer than that. He was eager to make more money and I didn’t blame him. I cut his time short, though paid the full amount agreed upon and thanked him. He had done a marvelous job in showing us many sights in a very efficient manner.

I walked back to the cannons to get a better look. The cannons are 9 in total. 4 at this gate which flanks the southeastern side of the flag tower, And 5 at the gate which flanks the northwestern side of the flag tower. The canons originally sat in front of the meridian gate but were moved to flank the flag tower during the reign of the bamboo dragon Khai Dinh. The Canons were founded between 1803 and 1804 and are made of copper collected from the weapons of Gia Long’s last conquest before becoming Emperor. The army of Tay Son. Each canon is named for either an element or season of oriental philosophy. Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter, gold, wood, water, fire, and earth.

The Parade Ground

We walked away from the canons and towards the center of the parade ground. The area inside the citadel is still a functioning city, though the forbidden city section is now a historical sight. As we moved towards the meridian gate I couldn’t stop staring at the flag tower. It was just such an impressive presence. I couldn’t stop thinking of what it must have been like to see at the time of its construction.

Essentially a massive fort built into the outer wall. It is approximately 60 feet in height, with the flag pole extending to a height of about 179 feet. Its size and mass, however, give the tower its impressive feel. It seems like a giant beast at the far end of the parade ground. We continued down the edge of the parade ground towards the Meridian gate.

The Meridian Gate

The gate was simply magnificent. If the flag tower was powerful and imposing, the Meridian gate seemed ancient, delicate, and mystical. The beautiful second level conjured images of Imperial Asia, assembled armies, and campaigns of war. A beautiful example of Confucian architecture. And amazingly constructed as it and the flag tower are two of the very limited structures that survived the war. We walked across the stone bridge that crossed the moat and made our way toward the gate. The central doorway reserved only for the Emperor is still locked today, so we made our way to a side entrance.

The Forbidden City

To step through the Meridian gate is to step back in time. What’s left of the forbidden city is still magnificent and frozen in an age of mystics, dragons, and superstitions. We immediately came to a causeway that split a pond in two. At each end stood the iron doorways of enlightenment I had seen before at many burial sights. Next to the far doorway stood a dragon dog on each side, perched on a pedestal and waiting to pounce on the unworthy. Similar to the dragon dogs in Minh Mang’s tomb.

The girls made directly for a shaded street that flanked the main courtyard across the causeway. The heat had become intense and I knew it was more than they usually tolerated. It was just after lunch and the siesta was alive and well in Vietnam. In fact, most non foodservice businesses and government offices close from 10:30 am until 2:00 pm. Diem knew this was a special place and I had waited many months to finally explore its grounds. She offered to stay in the shade of the trees and relax with the girls, while I, in moderate haste, explored as much as I could.

Exploring The City

I left a few bottles of water with the girls and headed into the rest of the city. It was impressive, to say the least. There were a lot of open spaces, as the war had taken close to 80 % of the structures, but there still seemed to be a lot left. I guess that speaks to the real magnificence of the original layout.

I passed the main palace, which sat on a large brick, raised courtyard, and made my way to the family’s quarters. A huge grass courtyard sat behind the main palace and was flanked by old longhouses whose exteriors were in rough shape. The courtyard was decently kept, with no weeds, but the grass needed cutting. Protruding from the deep green grass were the foundations of old buildings. Obviously ruins from the damage incurred during the war.

The interior of the longhouses was actually in great repair. Terracotta tile floors and more skilled and beautiful woodwork. The length of the long houses seemed to go on for some time. True to their name, the longhouses were long and flanked the courtyard on both sides.

More Signs of War

Some parts of the city were in worse repair and in borderline ruin. I came across a wall that was all but gone save for the archway and cut-in that was once beset within it. The signs of mortars and artillery were still visible in some areas, and I even came across a few bullet holes in some of the walls. It was a strange feeling, like walking through a world that still exists in eternal struggle in another realm. You can almost hear the screams and sounds of battle as you walk through the city.

The city seems to stand as a reminder of the horrors of war and the beauty one finds in the past. Such a strange duality, the beautiful gate, and entranceway that leads into ruins and destructive signs of chaos and war. I can’t help but pause and reflect on the difficulties US marines faced going door to door in close-quarter combat, and the sorrow felt by the Vietnamese as they tried to defend and ultimately watch their fabled city burn to ruin.

The Golden Dragon

I continued on to the far end of the longhouses where I came across a golden dragon. He sat on a pedestal not far from the back wall of the city. Behind sat more signs of buildings long gone and damaged foundations. Beyond that a restoration sight. Renovating an old palace temple that had been heavily damaged and fallen into disrepair. The entire city was slowly being rehabilitated to its former glory. Using the original plans laid out by Emperor Gia Long and his successors.

The dragon sat alone. As a guardian of what was left. He too was not completely spared as there were several spots that had been damaged and repaired. It was also obvious that he had recently received a fresh outer coat. He sat facing Southeast to the palace and flag tower. I stood for a moment and took in the dragon’s view. A time-lapse movie ran through my mind of the city rising and eventually falling over the centuries while the dragon looked on. The thought was fleeting and replaced by the sense that I had been gone long enough. I bid farewell to the dragon and made my way to the shade trees where the girls were patiently waiting.

Strolling Out of the City

I found the girls lounging in the shade and taking pictures. So cute in their matching dresses. We strolled down the main cross street of the forbidden city towards the northeast gate. This section housed the Old treasury sight and the newer treasury sight. The original treasury was one of the first buildings of the Imperial city but had been torn down in the early 20th century. It was replaced with a more modern building and moved across the street.

The original site was rebuilt with European-style construction and served as the headquarters of the Imperial guards. We walked past the building. It was only 100 years old or so. But in terrible condition. The roof had collapsed in several places and was in much need of some care. The newer treasury buildings were in great repair. Though, of the 10 original structures in the treasury complex, only 2 remained. Another casualty of the battle.

Cửa Hiển Nhơn, The Northern Gate

We continued down the beautiful tree-lined street to the northern gate of the forbidden city. It was a less imposing gate by a huge margin, but incredibly beautiful. More work of art than of gate. Intricate dragon sculptures and carvings covered the spaces. The colors were faded in some areas, but still vibrant and striking in others. It was an incredibly impressive structure.

Two guards stood at the gate monitoring its activities. It was an exit only. The meridian gate was the only way in as it was a pay-to-explore sight. At least for me, Vietnamese enter free of charge. This seems to be the policy at almost every museum and historical sight we have visited. I looked back at the gate and reflected on the sight. It was a beautiful place, full of history, with many stories to tell. I had finally walked the grounds of the forbidden city. It had been a wonderful day, but it was now late in the afternoon, and I owed the girls some pool time. We hailed a taxi and made our way back to the hotel.

Click Here for previous posts on the historical sights of Hue.

Or click here for a short video on the battle for Huế.