An Update
Again the time to write is just not forthcoming at the moment. Since the last article was published we’ve spent 5 days in the most romantic city in Vietnam, Da Lat. We have also traveled to the heart of the Mekong river delta. The borders here are still closed but domestically things are back to normal. It’s actually been quite nice as the tourism ministry has begun a campaign to encourage and facilitate tourism from within. As foreign tourists are still not allowed entry.
This has created an environment where everyone seems to be slashing prices in an attempt to promote vacations for Vietnamese. Vietnamese who would otherwise not be able to afford the typical foreign tourist destinations. This has become a winning formula for us as we have been able to stretch the dollar even further. I took quite a number of Diem’s family to the mountain retreat of Da Lat as many had never been. A 4 bedroom house for the week in the heart of the mountain city and transportation to and from barely cost $250 usd. The only downside to this new ability to travel on a much smaller budget is that we never seem to stop.
I have seen more in the past month than I’ve seen in the past 10 years. I don’t think that’s an exaggeration. But time is drawing to a pause. Diem and I are headed back to Da Nang in a couple of days and I will spend a week writing and catching up. After that we are going to visit the ancient Imperial City of Hue. Followed by an overnight fishing excursion in the south China Sea. We will cap off our adventures with a trek to the northern Mountain Valley of Sapa. There we will visit a few ancient villages of the Black Hmong tribes and then hike to the summit of the tallest mountain on the Indochina peninsula. It should be another great adventure. But for now and without further delay I give you, “The Devil’s Den – The Cu Chi Tunnel Complex”
The Devil’s Den – The Cu Chi Tunnel Complex
Anyone that’s ever seen a movie, television show or read a book on the Vietnam War has at least heard of the vast tunnel network operated by the Vietcong. Even the beloved Forrest Gump spent some time in the tunnels of Southern Vietnam. I did not know it yet, but today I also would spend some time in the bowels of hell. Today we would slip down into the Devil’s Den.
An Early Morning
It was a morning like any other. The house was stirring early as the children were off to school and some were off to work. My brother-in-law Luan was off this particular day and invited Diem and I to breakfast. Not one to ever turn down a good meal, we agree without protest. We shot across district 12, the district my brother-in-law lives, and settled into a street side eatery for a delicious bowl of Bun Bo Hue. Slices of beef, scallions, fresh onion, a deliciously rich beef broth and rice vermicelli.
An Impulse
We sat enjoying our breakfast and discussing things to do in Saigon. I expressed my interest in the tunnels of Vietnam. Having researched the topic I knew the government had preserved many sections and offered tours of the hellish recesses. In what was a very easy negotiation Luan agreeably offered to take us. It was a bit far by motorbike so he offered to take us in his delivery truck. Luan is a local delivery driver here in Saigon.
It seemed like a perfect opportunity and we finished breakfast before zipping off to his house to drop off the motorbikes. He returned about an hour later and we walked down the lane to load up in the truck and take the two hour ride to Cu Chi.
The Drive and a Light Lunch
It was what had become to me a typical drive through suburban Vietnam. I sat comfortably in the air conditioned cabin and realized at one point that what had once been a fascinating view long ago, was now nothing more than routine. I remember snapping photos of every building and road side scene on my first visit to Vietnam. Now everything seemed, well, ordinary. The occasional temple or beautiful park would sometimes peak my interest. Mostly it was just a normal drive through a suburban landscape.
As we came closer to Cu Chi I could sense hunger in the cabin and sure enough we pulled over to eat. A typical roadside restaurant with an open kitchen in the front. We walked up and looked at the day’s offerings and ordered our lunch. We sat down at a round table and within a couple of minutes the dishes started arriving. Thit Kho Tau (braised pork with eggs), caramelized pork belly, sauteed eggplant and green onions, a light vegetable broth, the ubiquitous rice, and a fish I was unfamiliar with.
The Fish
I dug into what was a very delicious lunch, but the fish was the star of the show. The flesh was white, sweet and creamy in its delicateness. It was seasoned in typical Vietnamese fashion with spices and fish sauce. The skin was scale less and very crispy and appeared to have been braised then pan fried to crisp the outside. It was absolutely divine. Of course I had to find out what kind of fish it was. Based on the skin and flesh I knew it to probably be in the catfish family, but its texture was unlike any other catfish I have had.
Upon a prolonged discussion and showing of pictures I discovered the species to be Clarius Batrachus, or the walking catfish. The air breathing catfish of Southeast Asia that was a popular documentary subject of my childhood. Also made popular by a childhood cartoon known as “Ren and Stimpy” where the air breathing catfish is named Muddy Mudskipper. The catfish lives in a massive river delta region in areas that fill and dry up such as rice fields. In response the catfish has evolved the ability to not only use its fins to “walk” on land, but the gills have adapted special appendages that allow it to breath air for limited periods of time. It uses these adaptations to move itself to new aquatic habitats or in search of food.
The Arrival
But enough about fish, let’s get to the subject at hand. We arrived at the tunnel complex just after 2. It was a bit eerie as the entrance and parking area were more of a US military equipment graveyard than park entrance. C-130’s, bombed out M48 tanks, troop carriers, howitzers and other artillery. Nothing was maintained or kept in showcase form. Allowed to rust on display as a reminder of the outgunned, primitive army with limited resources, that brought the mightiest military the world had ever seen to its knees.
Trying to Understand it all
I find it very impressive that the Vietnamese show zero animosity towards Americans. In fact they embrace us with smiles and open arms like no other culture I have ever experienced. They open their homes, feed us, care for us, look out for us. The government has shown great care for my well being here during the pandemic. Concerned with my safety, health and security as if I were a citizen. They have adjusted their immigration policy to favor westerners during this time by extending Visas free of charge and generally making life very comfortable and actually very amazing in my extended stay here. The Vietnamese are truly amazing people.
Yet we, the US in general, have done Vietnam no great favors in the last 50 years. We sanctioned them into gross poverty in retaliation for our defeat in Vietnam. We defoliated large swaths of the countryside making it untenable for decades, we poisoned their water supplies, littered their landscape with mines and unexploded ordinance and manipulated their weather patterns. It is estimated that 350,000 tons of unexploded ordinance and mines still litter the Vietnamese countryside. Yet the war stands as nothing more than history in the eyes of those who suffered the most.
There are villages that have been established throughout Vietnam devoted to the care and health of citizens, war veterans and their children who suffer from the effects of agent orange exposure. Still causing birth defects and illness 5 decades later, the legacy of war still permeates society, yet it is forgotten.
The Battlefield is the Playground of Beasts
To show you the unfathomable ability of the Vietnamese to forgive I wish to share a short story with you. I recently watched a documentary here about a woman called Thang who is now in her 60’s. and a South Korean soldier Song in his 70’s. Until coming to Vietnam I was unaware of the South Korean involvement in Vietnam, but their military presence was substantial. The South Koreans were known to be particularly ruthless fighters and had a group that was so ruthless they were called the killer company.
In 1968 when Thang was a small girl the Killer Company found their way to her village. 112 inhabitants, many were family. Thang rushed home to inform her mother the soldiers were surrounding the village. She hid in the basement with her brother, aunt, mother and three cousins. Within moments a grenade exploded in the basement killing everyone but Thanh and her brother. She spoke of her aunt’s eyes and how they never closed as she still held her infant tightly to her chest in death. Her brother’s legs were lost in the explosion and she had to leave him behind as she crawled out through a small opening. More grenades exploded behind her.
The only thing left of Ha My village is a memorial to the 111 unarmed, elderly, woman, infants and children who lost their lives on that horrible day in 1968. A few months ago Thang traveled to South Korea. The South Korean Soldier known as Song, who was a member of the battalion that bore responsibility for her village, sat down and broke bread together. He offered a very sincere apology and served her himself. They talked for many hours and there is just so much to learn from this experience. It really was a very emotional expose.
The Entrance
After roaming the equipment graveyard we headed to the main entrance. A long vined entrance way decorated with colorful conical hats lead to the main entrance. A brief discussion at the ticket booth and we were shown the path towards the exhibits. We were informed that our guide would meet us at our first stop and we proceeded down the path.
The Tunnels
The Cu Chi tunnels are very impressive. The tunnels of Cu Chi, which are just northwest of Saigon, stretch out over 75 miles. They also connect to a larger tunnel structure that stretches to the Cambodian border to the west, and to the old North Vietnamese border to the north. Dug entirely by hand with simple tools, the tunnels are a true testament to human ingenuity and perseverance. Construction began 1946 during the resistance to the French, but the tunnels were expanded beginning in 1961 with the arrival of American troops.
The Tour
A few feet down the path we came across a small boulder with a small hole towards the top. I immediately knew it was an air vent for the tunnels below. Now sitting in the middle of the path I can imagine it’s innocuousness in an overgrown jungle environment. A few yards down the path we came to a small exhibit showcasing the uniforms and a hammock rig most commonly used by the tunnels inhabitants.
The Structure
Further down the path we came to a bamboo pavilion housing a few exhibits. A model of a cross section of the tunnels, a map and a few artifacts from the time. Simple spears carved from limbs, old ordnance and the like. We walked around the pavilion looking at the exhibits while we waited for our guide. I found the cross section model to be quite fascinating. The tunnels were known to be 3 levels and they even had entrances under water in riverbeds. It really was quite an engineering marvel.
The tunnels were specifically designed to make exploration for French and later American troops almost impossible. The top level held the largest rooms. Often housing command centers, hospitals and mess halls. One upper level room even served as a theater for a little entertainment. Beyond the first level things became dark and hellish. Often creating what were called mole holes, sections of the tunnels that would become so narrow even the tiny statured Vietnamese would have difficulties squeezing through.
In addition the tunnels were littered with traps. False floors that gave way to pits with pointed sticks. Trip wires leading to explosive charges. Trap doors above stuffed with vipers. The tunnels were constructed in a zigzag pattern so enemy troops entering could never have a tactical line of sight. Ambush awaited at each corner. In short the tunnels were constructed and maintained to be a nightmare for troops who decided to enter the devil’s den.
Life Underground
To say life was difficult below the surface is an understatement. Fresh air, water and nutritious food were scarce. Often having to drink dirty water from wells dug in the lowest levels of the tunnels. As most surface water sources had become toxic from deforestation raids. The tunnels were hot, humid and often infested with pests. A myriad of unwelcome guests from ants, venomous centipedes, rodents, spiders, snakes and scorpions.
Disease was also a huge problem. A captured Viet Cong dispatch suggested that at any given time half of the PLAF, People’s Liberation Armed Forces, were stricken with malaria. One hundred percent had some form of intestinal parasite. In fact Malaria was the second leading cause of death for PLAF behind battle wounds. In good times the soldiers would stay underground by day and tend to their crops and stretch in the cool of the night. But during extended bombing raids they would stay underground for days at a time. It was a harsh existence, and the tunnels alone caused a body count for their inhabitants.
US Military’s Reaction to the Tunnels
From early on the US military knew the tunnels were of tactical significance. Though they didn’t fully understand the scope. Early policy towards the tunnels was to flush the area near the entrance with gas or hot tar hoping to draw out any troops. The tunnel would then be rigged with explosives and the entrance would be “crimped” off. In the beginning US troops were rarely sent in as the tunnels proved to be far too hazardous.
US Changes Its Approach
In 1965 Captain Alexander MacGregor, of the Australian Regular Army and commanding officer of the 3 field troop engineers, changed the view of the tunnels for the US. Born in New Delhi, British India and raised in Tasmania from age 8. A graduate from both the Royal Military College in Duntroon and the University of Sydney where he earned a civil engineering degree. Sandy, as he was affectionately known, would be the first person not in allegiance with North Vietnam to ever explore the tunnels.
I would like to think it was his Australian spirit and love for engineering that were his driving force. With just a torch and his pistol in hand he was lowered into the tunnel opening by his Sergeant. With a rope tied to his leg for emergency extraction he crawled around the tunnels. After clearing the area near the entrance Captain MacGregor and his men would crawl around the tunnels for four days.
Using telephone wire and a compass MacGregor and his men would map out the first section of the Cu Chi tunnel system. He would uncover munition bunkers, medical supplies caches, paperwork, typewriters and food. It was the first time the full extent of the tunnels was realized. The bravery of MacGregor and his men would earn him the Australian Military Cross and US Bronze Star. His efforts would start a new division devoted to tunnel exploration and neutralization. They would come to be known as the tunnel rats.
Realization Comes to Late
By the time the approach to the tunnels was revamped it was all but too late. In a reinvigorated attempt to neutralize the tunnels General Westmoreland launched a massive tunnel campaign in Cu Chi in 1967. Sending 30,000 troops into Cu Chi. It would prove effective, discovering the Viet Cong headquarters on January 18, 1967, but the complex was just too massive. The PLAF could easily move from structure to structure and the US never could seem to land any decisive victories.
By 1969 the US had resorted to simply carpet bombing Cu Chi. B-52’s began running sorties over Cu Chi day and night. Exposing huge sections of the complex and caving in others. By this time the tunnels had served their purpose and the war was beginning to wind down. By allowing the movement of supplies and troops throughout the south, the tunnels were instrumental in stalling US forces. They proved invaluable in prolonging the war and it was clear the US was beginning to lose interest in the war domestically. By 1972 US forces had withdrawn from South Vietnam altogether.
Our Exploration
As our guide met up with us we left the pavilion for the complex. I noticed a few craters around the pavilion and quickly realized they were craters from B-52 bomb raids. They littered the landscape quite a bit. The jungle had encroached upon them a great deal in the last 5 decades, but they were still quite noticeable.
We walked down the path towards the tunnels. The original tunnel entrances are very small so they have been opened up quite a bit to allow people access. The stairs that lead down are steeply pitched and there isn’t much light in the tunnels. In fact most of the tunnels we explored had no light save for our phones. As expected the tunnels were hot and very humid.
The rooms used for administration, eating and as hospitals were rather large, but the tunnels that connected them were tight and low. One section I couldn’t keep my feet below me and had to crawl. It wasn’t something for the claustrophobic. We crawled and wandered around the passageways for about an hour. The guide showed us a hidden pillbox in the jungle floor that looked like a meaningless mound in the jungle. In fact it was a killing apparatus. I was beginning to understand the soldiers reports of gunfire coming from nowhere, and from no one. The tunnel system not only was designed to hide troops and movements, but to kill and confuse soldiers patrolling the thick jungle.
We emerged from the sweltering underground labyrinth to a beverage stand and snack shack. I bought a Vietnamese sports drink and we were offered a typical tunnel snack. Boiled cassava and a mixture of crushed peanuts and salt. Carbohydrates, protein and electrolytes. Beyond that it was whatever could be caught or cultivated in the jungle. Rodents, snails, grubs, it was a meager existence. It was very humbling to think that some soldiers, if they were lucky, lived in these tunnels for years. Many would not survive to see the war end. It was a sobering reminder of the casualties of war.
Diem, Luan and I continued on past exhibits showing the different types of traps used in the tunnels. As well as a recreation of a workshop where things scavenged from the US military were repurposed into mines and traps. Nothing was wasted, nothing was lost. As we passed these exhibits we had come to the end of the tour, but there was one thing left to do.
The Shooting Range
Guns are illegal in Vietnam and most citizens have never shot one or heard one fire. For Luan and Diem that would change today. I had seen a sign at the main entrance that there was a gun range nearby. As a former military base the Cu Chi tunnel facility is operated by the military and so is the gun range. Only the military are allowed to possess or operate firearms in Vietnam.
Just next door to the tunnels you could target practice with weapons used from the war. AK-47’s, M-16’s and the like. I had initially shown no interest as shooting firearms wasn’t anything special for Americans. When I saw Luan’s eyes light up at the thought I changed my mind.
We loaded back in the truck and headed the half mile down the road to the range. Bullets were 3 dollars a piece, which seemed high to me, but whatever. We purchased our bullets and headed into the range. I immediately grabbed a pair of ear covers lined on the wall and tried my best to explain that everyone might want to use ear protection. Luan went first and stepped up the M-16. Diem and I stood behind and he settled in.
M-16
I’m sure in an effort to make the weapons unusable beyond firing forward, they were heavily fastened to the wall halfway up the barrel. In fact even when the gun wasn’t being used it still hung there aiming straight down the range. The unfortunate part of this is that you get zero feel for what it’s actually like to fire the weapon. No recoil, no kick, just walk up and pull the trigger. That part was a little disappointing, but hey it’s better than nothing. I stood next to Diem as Luan squared up and then bang. The first shot was squeezed off. I thought Diem, who was holding our niece, would have made it back to the truck by the time the bullet found the berm. I tried to tell her to put on the ear protection.
It must have been a huge surprise to hear a gun fire for the first time, especially an M-16. We shot our bullets, the gun’s sights were way off, and loaded back in the truck. It was a couple of hours back to the city and traffic was beginning to set in. It had been a very interesting day exploring the tunnels. Very informative and very eye opening. It is times like these that I feel fortunate to have never had to put on a uniform and fight for a cause. It’s also times like this that I realize how valuable, important and brave our service men and women are. On this Memorial Day week I offer my thanks to all those who have served in the Armed Forces, and not only back home, but all over the world. May peace prevail on earth.
Click Here for a short video of the tunnels
or Click Here for more post on historical topics
Click here for the documentary “The Ghosts of Vietnam”
