The Burning Monk of Linh Mụ Pagoda

We left the burial site of Khải Định and headed north along the Perfume river. We settled down about 3 miles outside the citadel of Huế. The driver let us out at the base of another steep stairway climbing into the hillside. The morning hour was growing late. And Diem and the girls chose to sit at a little street stall next to the staircase and enjoy a snack. I couldn’t blame them, I had an unstoppable desire to see what lies at the top.

The girls settled into a cool drink and a light snack. While I stuffed a cold water in my back pocket and began to climb the steps. Three large obelisks sat at the base of the stairs, guardians to the complex above. The steps terminated onto a rather large plateau that extended beyond several buildings. One thing that I rather enjoy about traveling here is that I often go in blind. The taxi driver agreed to take me to the most significant sights. Though he offered me no information as to what they may be. Diem too was unknowing of our destinations.

What often results is an exploration of sights as if I’m uncovering their hidden treasures for the first time. An intrepid explorer trying to piece together the history and stories of the sights and structures I come across. Never knowing what secrets I may uncover, or what surprises may hide around each corner. So with little insight as to where I was, I stepped into the sacred grounds.

Tháp Phước Duyên

The first structure one comes to is the massive seven storied brick tower known as Tháp Phước Duyên. It is an iconic symbol of Huể, though it is one of the younger structures on the compound. In 1601 the Pagoda site was established as a Monastery. Constructed on the order of Nguyễn Hoàng. The first of the Nguyễn Lords and ancestor of Minh Mang.

In 1904 a cyclone heavily damaged many of the structures and destroyed the original tower. Emperor Thành Thái ordered the reconstruction of the damaged site as well as the new tower structure in 1907. I walked around the structure and noticed several small houses flanking the tower. The houses contained steles describing major events in the history of the site. Including restoration periods or additions. A few also contained several artifacts.

The Great Bell of Thien Mụ

Inside one of the houses I found a massive bronze bell. Beside the bell was a marble slab telling its story. In 1710 the Nguyen Lord Phuc Chu donated the bell to the Monastery. The bell weighs an impressive 4,378 pounds, and is said to be audible from more than 10 miles away. In 2013 the bell was officially declared a national treasure, and the entire compound is a UNESCO world heritage site.

I continued exploring the houses and reading their stone tablets. One also contained a large marble turtle with a stele on its back. A symbol of longevity and containing some of the story of the property’s history. I took some time to examine each one and the n made my way past the large tower.

Beyond the Gate House

Just past the tower sits a large gate house. As seems to be customary at all temples, pagodas, and burial sites, the gate house has three entrance ways. The gate house was of typical Confucian style construction. Pagoda style roof, two levels, and adorned with the classical Chữ Nôm character script. At each entranceway stood sculptures of the Guardians of the Buddhist temples, Chien Lan and Wei Tuo.

I passed through the gatehouse leaving my burdens behind, as is the custom, and stepped into the courtyard beyond. Beautifully landscaped and meticulously kept, the courtyard was split by a long brick paved path that led to the main Pagoda. I walked onward.

Linh or Thiên Mụ Pagoda

The Pagoda is a masterpiece of construction. One of the few surviving buildings from the Cyclone of 1904, the Pagoda has been through some restoration, but is mostly in its original form. I walked up to the entrance and gazed at the detail. Beautiful sculpture work on the rooftop, detailed paintings on the soffits that separated the roof sections, and rich and skilled woodwork trimmed out the interior.

The pagoda is what gives the compound its name, Linh or Thiên Mụ Pagoda, translated to Temple of the Celestial Lady. The interior was decorated with typical Buddhist colors. The deep and also bright shades of reds and yellows. At the front of the porch concealed in a glass case sat a large Golden Buddha. A monk sat quietly in the doorway. I took a few moments to meditate and pray on the moment, and then pressed on.

On the sides of the main courtyard were a few gardens and koi ponds. I stepped away from the Pagoda and resigned to some peaceful contemplation at the side of the pond. In the center of the pond sat a rather large banzai display and miniature mountain complete with a waterfall. Yet another great place to quietly reflect on the present.

The Burning Monk

Next to the pond was a typical Asian style long house. Long as the name implies, and broken up into units. It held rooms and work spaces for the monks who lived here. I, without expecting anything too unusual, began to walk the path down the length of the house. Something caught my eye as I turned the corner and I froze in place.

The first unit was opened in the front and looked eerily familiar. A blue Austin Westminster Sedan from the late 50’s or early 60’s peered out from the building. Behind hung an iconic image taken by Journalist Malcolm Brown of the now immortalized monk Thích Quảng Đức. Sitting in the lotus position on fire, in front of this very car in downtown Saigon on June 11, 1963.

Thích Quảng Đức

Thích Quảng Đức was born sometime around 1897 in Hội Khanh, French Indochina. A sibling to six, Thích Quảng Đức left home to study Buddhism at the age of seven. Taking his samanera or novice vows at 15, he was ordained as a full monk at 20. He immediately began his hermit years where he lived isolated and alone for three years on a mountain near Ninh Hòa. After his hermit years he would begin traveling Vietnam and Cambodia supporting Monasteries and helping to build new ones.

Thích Quảng Đức spent some time here at the Linh Mu Pagoda, and it is assumed to explain the car’s presence. He oversaw the construction of 31 new temples in his lifetime. And is venerated as a great spiritual leader of his time. In his final years he would rise to the level of abbot, and be appointed as Chairman to the  Panel on Ceremonial Rites of the Congregation of Vietnamese Monks. Or the PCRCVM.

A Dark Times for Buddhism

In the decades following World War II Vietnam would emerge split into two nations. The Democratic Republic of Vietnam to the north and the State of Vietnam to the south. In both instances the Buddhist majority was estimated to be over 75 percent, and some even speculate upwards of 90 percent. The unfortunate problem for this massive majority, was that neither nation seemed concerned with them. The Communists in the north were non religious by nature, and President Diệm in the south was a radical Catholic.

The Diệm regime set out to eradicate Buddhism and did so by imposing harsh policies. Stripping land from non-Catholics. Only promoting officers in the military that were Catholic, and only allowing those to hold office who were the same. Many Catholic priests even mustered their own armies and went about demolishing Monasteries and forcibly converting entire villages. There was a compulsory labor requirement known as corvee for all citizens. Catholics were exempt from this, as well as from taxes and many of the requirements of land reforms. Diệm established relocation policies to move Buddhist families from desirable lands, and by 1963 the Catholic Church was the largest landowner in the state of Vietnam.

The Final Motivation

Early in May of 1963, Diệm placed a ban on flying the Buddhist flag in Huể. Though in recent months the Vatican flag had begun to be flown at all public and state events. A few days later, on Vesak or Buddha’s birthday, a large crowd gathered in Huể. They flew their flags in defiance of the ban and marched on the government broadcast station. Diệm’s forces descended on the crowd and opened fire. As the smoke settled nine protestors lay dead and many more wounded. Diệm would later claim it was actually the Viet Cong that attacked the protestors.

The Event

On the 10 of June 1963, Thích Quảng Đức joined a procession that had begun at a pagoda in Saigon. 350 monks and nuns marched ahead of the Austin Sedan. They flew banners pleading for religious equality and denouncing the Diệm regime. The procession came to a stop at the intersection of now Nguyễn Đình Chiểu and Cách Mạng Tháng Tám Streets. Only a few blocks from the presidential palace. Thích Quảng Đức stepped out of the car with two other monks. A cushion was placed on the pavement by one monk, while the other pulled a can of gasoline from the trunk. The marchers began to circle the area and Thích Quảng Đức quietly sat down on the cushion in the lotus position.

The third monk empty the contents of the can onto Thích Quảng Đức as he quietly prayed and shuffled his prayer beads in his hand. He recited a few words praising Buddha before striking the match and dropping it in his lap. Journalist Malcolm Brown was at the scene expecting some form of demonstration and took the iconic photo. Of the photo JFK said “no news picture in history has generated so much emotion around the world as that one.” Senator Frank Church of the Senate Foreign Relations Committee said “such grisly scenes have not been witnessed since the Christian martyrs marched hand in hand into the Roman arenas.”

Aftermath

Pressure immediately came down on the regime from Washington and within five days an agreement was brokered between the government and Buddhist leaders. Diệm however, would continue to make life difficult for the Buddhist majority. It is believed to be a major factor in his end. Less than 6 months after the self-immolation of Thích Quảng Đức, Diệm was overthrown. The military performed a coup d’etat, but Diệm escaped via an underground passageway and sought refuge at a Catholic church in Cholon outside of Saigon.

Diệm and his younger brother were captured the next morning. They were placed in the back of an M113 armored personnel carrier. On the morning of November 2, 1963 Captain Nguyễn Văn Nhung, under the direct orders of General Minh, assassinated Diệm and his younger brother with a revolver and bayonet in the back of the carrier. Thus bringing to an end the tyrannical rule of Ngô Đình Diệm. Diệm was buried in a small cemetery next to the US Ambassador’s house in an unmarked grave.

Bonsai and the Temple of Superstition

After composing myself from the intense imagery and emotion of the exhibit, I continued further down past the long house. I came across two young monks practicing bonsai and quietly working in the shade. I stopped for a moment and just observed the peaceful work. Further on I went until I came across a beautiful field more than courtyard. perfect grass, rock art dotting the area and a wonderful little square pond filled with water lilies.

At the far end of the field stood a small temple to the god Guan Gong. At temples to Guan Gong you will often find fortune tellers or card readers. I was not interested in chicanery, and simply stared at the beautiful space. It was the kind of place you just want to lay in the grass all day, or picnic in the shade. Though there was no shade and it was becoming unbearably hot. So I pressed on.

The Singing Fruit Garden

As I walked down the opposite side of the property back towards the front, I came to an area more actively lived in by the resident monks. I strolled past simple houses with monks robes hanging to dry. Gardens filled with produce no doubt being readied for the table. And a most interesting sight. A heavily wooded area, dark with shade, and the air carrying the tune of the wind. I came to a small wooden gate. It appeared to be a grove of tightly packed fruit trees filled with wind chimes.

Click Here for the link to the video above.

I quietly opened the gate and made my way through. It was cool and calming. The chimes gave the space a beautiful vibe. I sat in the sound and took in the cool shade for a few minutes. My stomach was beginning to rumble, and I can only assume the same is true for the girls. I walked out of the garden and down a side path back to the stairs at the front. Pausing for a moment, I looked at the Perfume river as it meandered by in front of the complex. The girls were sitting under an awning at one of the eateries munching on chilled snacks. Some sort of yogurt treat. We piled back into the taxi and headed for lunch.

Click Here for other posts on some of the beautiful Pagodas we’ve visited in Southeast Asia.