Reflections In Paradise
The last two days in An Lao were incredibly peaceful. I completed a few writing projects and wandered the property in a state of solace, peace and tranquility. I can’t express how incredibly comforting it is to simply sit in the open air home. The warm jungle breeze flowing through the house. The delicious food served it seemed, by the hour.
The children’s giggles and laughter echoing in the high ceilings and across the tile floors. Afternoon naps, harvesting fruit around the house and snacking on nature’s abundance. It is truly a piece of heaven on earth. On our last day in An Lao solace became more of the emotion as the vibrant sun rose in the bright blue sky. I watched my father in-law and my nephew Duy harvest a fresh bunch of bananas in the morning breeze. I, intrigued, learned much of the more tulip-like plant which produces America’s favorite fruit. The banana plant only produces once and has a rhizome for a root system. Its stalk is actually made up of the stems of it’s massive leaves.
Taking in the View
I sat at the desk in our bedroom on the afternoon of our last day. I looked through the bamboo blinds that hung down over the open shutters and peered at the silhouette of the palm trees for the last time. It was a lot more emotional than I thought it would be. Given the current circumstances in the world, I was unsure if or when I would return. I hoped to return before I traveled back to the states, but I couldn’t be sure. Things were just too uncertain.
An Evening Out
Diem informed me in the dying light of the day that we would be going to dinner in town with her sister and Brother in-law Thao. I was definitely excited to go out, but the last time I ventured into town we received an unfortunate phone call. In addition I was told that my whereabouts were being monitored. So you can imagine my apprehension about dinner in town. Diem assured me that all was well as we would be on a transport to Da Nang before sunrise and it was a holiday. No one would be concerned.
Thanh Ngan
So Diem, her sister, Xu, Su, and Duong hopped on a motorbike. Yes that’s five people. Thao and I hopped on another, my weight is too much to add another passenger. Thao’s shocks were maxed out with me already. We headed out of the village and towards town to a little roadside restaurant called Thanh Ngan. They offered a few variations of Pho and Bun. I had the Bun Bo Hue. A delicious broth with vermicelli rice noodles, slices of beef and green onions. Served always with fresh bean sprouts and salad greens, fish sauce and chili.
I lapped up my offering and we sat discussing the week. It was bittersweet that we were leaving in the morning, but it couldn’t be helped. We discussed an after dinner drink and loaded up the bikes to head out for coffee. It was Saturday night and the little town was buzzing with business. We stopped at a roadside produce stall and purchased Burmese grapes and Lychee fruit to accompany our coffee.
After Dinner Delights
We arrived at Minh Trang coffee house a few minutes later and parked our bikes. It was a very cool coffee house. An inner room with floor tables and booths, a children’s playground and a large covered outdoor area. We sat near the cherry tree under the Christmas lights in the outdoor area while the children hurried off to play. It was getting rather late and I wasn’t particularly keen on coffee so Diem ordered me a dessert drink of sorts.
We sat talking casually about life and munching on the fruit we had brought. The Burmese grapes were new to me and incredibly delicious. A smooth green exterior, three distinct fruit pods on the interior and a taste more like candy. An extra sour lemon sweet tart to be exact. They were addictive. A quick puckering punch followed by a sweet settling of the taste buds. A truly remarkable little fruit.
As we sat waiting for our drinks the coffee shop quickly began to fill. Children began to pile into the play area in mass and the sounds of laughter and play began to grow. Our drinks arrived and what was placed in front of me was unfamiliar, at least at first glance. It was a daiquiri style glass filled with a creamy liquid poured over ice. It smelled of fresh cream with a hint of lemon.
Transported Home
When I tasted the creamy beverage I was instantly transported to my grandmother’s home at Thanksgiving. The creamy rich beverage tastes just like my grandmother’s famous cheese pie. It was bizarre in its similarity and the delight that came with the sensation caused me to unknowingly slurp the entire drink up in seconds. I just couldn’t stop. Diem ordered another and this time I savored the memorable treat.
We ordered a few snacks, rice paper salad and spring rolls, and just took in the last night before our departure. Unfortunately this moment couldn’t last forever as morning would come regardless of my wishes. We loaded up on our bikes and headed back to the house. We packed earlier in the day, the only thing left was a night’s sleep.
Before the Roosters Crow
I heard Diem’s phone ring at an early hour. I looked at my watch, it was just after 4, another hour of sleep, at least I thought. Diem shook me within seconds and it was time to go. Trieu, the driver of our transport, had been the caller. He was setting out early and it was time to move. I jumped up and grabbed my things, brushed my teeth and downed a Pepsi to try and shake off the hazy sleep. We dressed the girls and everyone donned their facial coverings. It would take several trips to get the roughly half mile to the rendezvous as we had the girls Su and Xu as well as luggage, toys and everything else that came with two months in the village and two birthdays.
Loading up
Diem took me and a few luggage items first and we crossed the small bridge that enters the village for the last time. When we turned the corner to the rendezvous Trieu was already waiting. Diem went back for more Items as Duy and my father in law Ba also began delivering our items. We said our goodbyes and I again thanked them for their amazing hospitality. I have never felt so welcomed and part of a family. It was barely 4:45am as we finished loading the transport and headed south.
The Ride Out of An Lao
Dawn was quickly approaching as we headed further out of the district. The early morning road out was often littered with pedestrians, work trucks and motorbikes. It was very slow going at first as the country was mostly open again and the transport began to feel as I had remembered. We picked up many passengers and parcels on the way and by the time we reached state route one just over an hour south of the district border the transport was full.
Only containing 17 seats including the driver, at one point I counted 24 in the cramped transport. Not including the countless packages and parcels shoved in every possible place. Trieu and his transport had been idle for over a month. It was time to make up for lost ground. If it fit he took it or them, but eventually there was no room left.
A Breakfast Break
In the row DIem, I and the girls sat, the girls basically sat on us. Makeshift stools were placed at the end of the rows to allow for more passengers and our three seat row eventually was filled with five. We did stop shortly after 6 for a little breakfast and it was just in time. My butt was numb, my knees were aching to extend and 15 minutes off the bus was a life saver.
A quaint little roadside eatery that we always stopped at on our way out of An Lao. A delicious bowl of Bun Bo. Rice vermicelli, a rich broth, chili, strips of beef, fresh herbs, and fresh tea to wash it down. I slurped up my bowl and took the remaining time to stretch my legs. We then loaded up and packed in for the remaining 4 hour drive.
The Road To Da Nang
The majority of us including myself slept a good portion of the remaining drive. One learns to sleep in not so ideal conditions here in the land of the dragon people. As the sun was rising high into the sky we finally reached the borders of Da Nang. By now we were dropping people off at stops on the way in and the transport began to loosen up. We pulled into the stop near the market around 10:30 and unloaded. Diem called us a taxi and he thankfully arrived in minutes.
Almost Home
I, as was custom, sat in the front and everyone had plenty of room to stretch. We lucked out in receiving the slowest taxi driver in Da Nang and at one point I wanted to shove my foot on the gas to get this little Toyota moving. I swear I saw a few turtles pass by and maybe even a slug. But it was reassuring to know I was back in the safety of the city and I guess a slow ride to the apartment was better than 14 days in a concentration camp.
An Unsettling Site
As we crossed the city and headed across the Han river bridge the city looked like it had in all my time here, but very different than when we left. The lifting of restrictions occurred well over a week ago and if we had been here the whole time I probably wouldn’t have noticed the slow change. But to have left right as restrictions lifted and to come back 7 days later was stunning in it’s difference. The monkey mountains off of our patio were almost indivisible from the farthest extents of the city and the haze of pollution that enveloped everything was almost tangible.
The clear almost touchable jungle on the mountainside just off of our patio was now a hazy blur. The city was still beautiful, but I never truly realized the pollution levels until now. Da Nang is known for being one of the less polluted cities in Vietnam, I can only imagine what Ho Chi Minh or Hanoi look like. It was a jarring reality of life in this world. With progress comes pollution. I only hope we can learn to adapt and forge a new path one day.
Home At Last
We reached the apartment and finally some air conditioning and a hot shower. I didn’t mind the heat and cool showers of the village, it was actually wonderful. But if I must come home then I’ll relish in a little AC. After a tiring walk up the several flights of stairs, luggage in tow, we turned on the AC and I laid sprawled out under it’s cooling breeze. We would need to get the girls ready, they would be visiting their paternal grandparents as they haven’t seen them in over two months.
A Grocery Trip
After unpacking we dropped the girls off and went grocery shopping. Our refrigerator and pantry were virtually empty as we took most everything with us to the village. As we headed south to the Mega Mart, a Costco like store, I noticed the city alive again. Children were flying their kites in the parks. The city was bustling with motorbikes and cars. Life, It seemed, was finding a way. It was really comforting to see the city getting back to it’s busy wild self.
We loaded up on enough groceries to keep us all fed for over a week and trudged the ride home with at least 100 pounds of groceries piled on our motorbike. Diem always tells me to be careful sitting on the back edge of the seat. My response “your driving, you be careful”. She always is and I’ve gotten pretty comfortable sitting on the back edge. So comfortable in fact, that I spend most of the time taking pictures and videos as we cross the city streets back home.
In Closing
We prepared an early dinner for an early night. Our 8 year old Su would go to school tomorrow for the first time since the new year break. Though little Xu would have to wait as kindergarten and pre-k were being held off. It was a wonderful week in the countryside. A magical week. A week filled with peace and tranquility. A time that found me always out in nature, high in the mountains. The warm sun always shining down, the fresh fruits always pleasing. It was a most beautiful week.
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Click Here for a short article about Dragon Bridge. The symbol of Da nang.
