Before we begin, I must make a few confessions. This morning’s early events are a bit foggy. For you see, yesterday ended after Imperial beach, but I can’t seem to remember all of the evening. It began at Urban Leaf and ended when I woke up. I have a few pictures of a darkly lit beach and vaguely remember an Australian drinking a beer from his shoe. By the time my vision came into focus, it was mid-morning, and we were on the Star of India.
Star of India
Built during the golden age of the industrial revolution, the Star of India is a shining example of progress and the Gilded age. It was a time when railroads and telegraphs were connecting the world like never before. The slow wind-dependent sailing vessels were no longer suitable for the young industrial movement. The need to keep time schedules and build on the young global economy was a driving force for ships like the Star of India.
The oldest sailing vessel in the world and the only iron-hulled ship still afloat. The Star of India is a great example of industrial evolution from conventional necessity. By the time of her construction, Europe was in a wood shortage. Sailing vessels alone required 400 acres of old growth for one ship, and the need for alternative building materials was paramount. Enter the dual-powered (wind and steam) iron-hulled Star of India.
A beautifully preserved relic from the age, she has the majestic towering masts from the age of exploration and the industrial era powerhouse in her belly. We wandered the decks of this beautiful floating museum and took in her history. Still sailing to this day, the vessel has been maintained to its original specs for over 150 years.
Military Marvels
Cold War Submersibles
A short walk from the Star of India were two early Cold War submarines. One American and one Russian. It was very interesting to see the difference between the two vessels. One notable difference was comfort. The Russian sub was designed solely for functionality, and the American sub was built with at least some bit of comfort in mind. We walked from end to end of each sub before heading to what I had been waiting for.
USS Midway
Towering at the Navy Pier in downtown San Diego is the USS Midway. A powerful and patriotic example of American might. The longest-serving Aircraft Carrier in U.S. history, she has an impressive resume. The largest ship ever built before 1955 and the first ship ever built too large to traverse the Panama Canal. She served in every American conflict from 1945 until her retirement in 1992—the flagship and capital of naval operations in desert storm, a ship truly representative of the 20th century.
She was a major part of the American effort in Vietnam and, at the fall of Saigon, was instrumental in saving lives. As Ho Chi Min’s forces overran South Vietnam in 1975, it was the Midway that stood as a pillar of freedom in the East Sea off of south Vietnam. A mighty pillar, thousands of democratic and free Vietnamese would be evacuated to her decks as Saigon fell.
One of the most harrowing and demanding times in human history. The brave men and women of the Midway would ultimately push $10 million worth of helicopters into the ocean to make room for the aircraft of the desperate evacuees of the fall of Saigon. One of the most amazing stories from the Midway was that of South Vietnamese Air Force Major Buang-Ly.
Major Buan
As Saigon fell and the south was overrun, Major Buan snuck his wife and five children into a two-seat Cessna airplane and heroically took off from an airstrip in southern Vietnam. Taking on heavy ground fire and with no destination in mind, he headed due east and into the unknown. He miraculously found the Midway and, with no ability to communicate, began to circle the ship. A spotter reported to the commanding officer, Captain Larry Chambers, that a family appeared to be onboard. At the time, Major Buan was also able to drop a handwritten note on the deck stating that he was low on fuel and asking for room to land.
Without hesitation, Captain Chambers ordered the scuttling of every aircraft in the way. Every able-bodied crew member loaded onto the flight deck to clear a path. As the Midway turned to make 25 knots into the wind, downdraft and current conditions were transmitted blind to Buan in both Vietnamese and English. Buan came in for his approach, touched the flight deck, and bounced to a stop right on target. A massive audience had gathered on the flight deck to cheer him and broke into a roar as he came to a stop. It would be the first time a Vietnamese pilot would land on an American Aircraft Carrier. The crew of the Midway established a fund thereafter to help Major Buan and his family settle down in the U.S. It’s a great example of American heroism and compassion.
We continued up and down the humbling sights of her decks. The entire ship was open—the engine room, command centers, the bridge, and the flight deck. The flight deck was filled with vessels that served on her deck over the years. She was an impressive boat, and we spent several hours learning about her missions and walking her storied halls.
Ocean Beach Street Market
After our day exploring ships old and new, we headed back to Ocean Beach for the weekly street market. Every Wednesday, Newport Avenue is cordoned off, and tents are erected. The street market of Ocean Beach comes to life. Vendors from all over San Diego descend onto OB to sell their wares and tasty treats. Everything from cookies made from recycled food to beautiful flowers can be purchased here. We walked the street stalls, ogling the delicious gluten-free desserts and East African Sambusas.
After a full day of exploring, we decided to eat dinner at the world-famous Hodad’s burger shop on Newport Avenue in Ocean Beach. Featured on Guy Fieri’s Diners Drive-ins and Dives and often found in top lists for burger joints nationwide. Hodad’s is fun, friendly, and delicious. I enjoyed the blue jay with onion rings, and if you truly love blue cheese, then it is heavenly. The blue cheese is creamy and bountiful, making the burger a fanfare of funky beefy goodness.
The Kilowatt
After Hodad’s it was time to unwind. We headed a few blocks east to begin our exploration of OB’s bars at Kilowatt brewing. A blast of fun for a late-night game or two. An award-winning brewery in its own right, the Kilowatt offered some delicious specialties from low gluten to Apricot Hefeweizens. However, the real draw wasn’t the brew, it was the impressive array of bar games, from giant light brights and labyrinth boxes to homemade balancing wheels and cue ball puzzles. We had a riotous time pitting our skills against each other, and after a few rounds of games and beers, it was time to move on.
Pacific Shores and Winstons
Our next stop was pacific shores, which was right out of a Hunter S. Thompson novel. Neon glowing lights everywhere, artists painting under black light. A world where everyone and everything glowed in a tropical scene inspired by an era gone by. I couldn’t handle more than a drink in the funky vibes of Pacific Shores.
After our short visit, we headed to Winstons a couple of blocks down. It was a more traditional bar slash music venue. We ordered a beer and settled into a very impressive reggae set. We listened to some classics and a few originals as the night began to wind down. Tomorrow we would fly home to Atlanta, so I took the time to just take in the moment. The wavy tones of Peter Tosh and Ziggy Marley floated in the air with the scents of an appropriate smoky accompaniment. I got lost for a while in the presence of myself, and I eventually made my exit stage left, as the scene faded to black.
