Lockdown Continues
As of today it has been exactly one month since the first case of the second wave was reported in Da Nang. I wish I could say we were nearing the end of the lockdown. But this is not the case. It appears an extension is imminent. As many know on July 27th we had zero deaths and barely 400 cases. Most of those cases were repatriated Vietnamese who became ill overseas and were brought home for treatment.
When I woke up this morning the 30th death was announced and we broke the thousand infection mark a week ago. We are averaging 1 death a day and we have had more infections confirmed in the past four weeks than in the past seven months combined. All but one of those deaths and a vast majority of the new cases are in Da Nang.
A Census
Beginning a few weeks ago the local authorities began doing a soft census of the city. They came by two times that I know of, maybe even a few times I don’t know. Sometimes they just check with the landlords, we have copies of our passports with the building, sometimes they check with us. One time they went door to door. I understand the importance of getting a true picture of the city, but it is always a little unnerving when an officer in a crisp class A uniform knocks on your door.
They were particularly interested in foreigners. Believing the new outbreak was brought in from abroad, the need to access every foreigner and their travel history was considered a priority. I can tell you it was a tense moment, but when the kids called me Ba, Vietnamese for father, and the officer saw our wedding portrait, he took the information he needed and left with no fuss. He seemed to know at that point that I wasn’t just some passing tourist and it gave me a great sense of relief.
The Food Situation
The food situation had gotten better in some respects, but not so good in others. We were told we would be issued tickets with time slots for the market and the schedule was essentially every three days. After over a week we still had not received our tickets. This wasn’t a setback really, we still had daily access to the neighborhood grocery store which I showed some bare shelves in in an early Dragon Diaries post.
The good news is that efforts were ramped up to keep these neighborhood grocers, which number in the hundred maybe even thousands across the city, fully stocked with a minimum two days of supplies. After the initial shock of the renewed lockdown, things calmed down and the grocery store became very well stocked. Fresh produce, meat, fish and pretty much anything you might need. Though variety wasn’t always profound, and the prices are much higher than the markets.
Two days ago our ticket finally arrived and Diem headed to the market. We were finally able to substantially stock up. A few pounds of pork, shrimp, chicken, herbs, lots of vegetables. I took great care in packaging everything to stay as long as possible. Carefully prepared the baby basil, cilantro and green onions. Washed everything, portioned the meats and stocked the fridge like I would in my restaurant.
Testing Tuesday
On the way back from the market a letter was waiting for Diem at the front desk. All foreigners were to be tested that afternoon in our neighborhood. At the beginning of our street is a rather large apartment building called Son Tra Ocean View, it would serve as the testing sight. That particular apartment is mostly expats anyway, so it made sense to host the sight there. It is also only a block up from our building so it was very convenient.
I was instructed to be there at 2pm. I was very anxious. Not due to concern of illness or anything. If I received a positive test result, even if it turned out to be false in the end, I would be separated from Diem and the girls for an unknown amount of time. We have been isolated for weeks now, but you can never be sure. We go to the grocery store almost daily, we had to until we received our market ticket, and there are active cases in our ward. There are quarantined streets and buildings just a few streets over, so the virus is active and close by. Anything is possible.
The Test Sight
We asked the landlord, a very sweet lady, to watch the girls while Diem and I walked up to the apartment. I have lived in this neighborhood for awhile. I had no idea there were so many expats here. There were at least one hundred gathered as we turned the corner and more were arriving every minute. The patients, testing team, military, police and support staff all showed up at 2. Nothing was set up, we were supposed to distance ourselves, but the scene immediately devolved to pandemonium.
I don’t know the entire situation. I know there were sights across Da Nang testing expats today. There could have been a limited number of teams operating multiple sights in a rolling manner across the city. I do know that this sight was not set up and for about a half hour it was not fun. Military and local police trying to bring order and distancing to the area so the crew could set up and establish an orderly operation. For a moment it was just chaos.
A System Is Established
I must say that once the area was prepped, and the system began to operate as it was intended, things became very smooth. Diem was also an amazing advocate on my side. A woman with an almost unintelligible accent was continuously trying to get people out of the way. She also tried to explain what people needed to do and in what order. Diem took the unknown out of the equation and at one point appeared to be taking control of the entire program. It was awesome and funny to watch.
She hovered over the people facilitating the operation. Asking what they were doing, what the procedure was, and constantly lobbying to give me a test first. She was so persistent that I can honestly say she would have probably been removed from the area in the US. She was awesome. Brave, courageous, unafraid, the woman is a force that is just unlike anything I’ve ever seen. If she has ever been anxious or nervous, I’ve never been able to tell. She is the strongest woman I’ve ever known apart from my mother. I was one of the first to get tested.
Finally I’m Tested
The way the system operated was very simple and efficient. Two prep stations were set up. The tables contained three people each in full hazmat suits and a runner. Each of us was given a form to fill out. Typical information. Passport number, address, phone number and a brief questionnaire about travel history and possible symptoms. In front of the table were three rows of five of those classic little Vietnamese chairs.
One row at a time the runner would come and collect your form and take them to the table. They were stapled together and the packet was labeled by number, I think my group was labeled 34, they started at 30. A vial was labeled with the five names of the packet and it was recorded in a ledger. In addition a separate vial was labeled for each individual in the packet. The runner then brought the vials and a swab for each person to the line. I was the first chair in my row so I was team leader. I was given the master vial, my blood vial and a swab. My row was then taken to another section where more chairs were set up in front of the testing table.
An Unexpected Development
As a person moved up in front of you, you moved up. When I became the first chair, a nurse stood at the head of the line. She checked my vials, which I had to get redone. It was incredibly hot and the marker on the master vial washed off onto my hand. She then did the swab test and I thought I was done. Highly uncomfortable by the way. She motioned me to the table , which I was not expecting, and I sat down. I looked next to me and saw a woman having her blood drawn. So it was multiple tests, they are not taking chances. They drew my blood, and I got up and walked off. The entire experience took one hour and I went home and enjoyed a beer.
Other Developments
I think it goes without saying that international flights in a commercial capacity are not even on the table. Though I did receive a brilliant email from the US embassy the other day. For 1000 dollars I could fly on a charter flight to Houston from Hanoi on August 29. A cooperative operation between the US government and Vietnam. Hanoi is almost a thousand miles away, I can’t leave my neighborhood, much less travel across the country.
They did that in the first lockdown. Chartering flights from Hanoi and Saigon at a time when most Americans could get to neither unless they were already there. That’s ok, I couldn’t imagine leaving my wife behind in these times. It is already going to be hard enough when things normalize. To do so in the middle of a lockdown and hardships is unthinkable.
An Insane Proposition
I also received a rather humorous email this morning. The US embassy is working with Da Nang authorities to allow the newly tested foreigners to leave the city. If your test is negative, the local authorities are developing a plan to let those foreigners out of the city. Da Nang is the only city on lockdown in Vietnam. It is an opportunity to get some “fresh air” and get out to a more open region. I laughed when I saw it.
I would love for us leave Da Nang, go to An Lao, spend time with Diem’s parents in the peaceful oasis of the village. Though I would have to go alone. Diem and the girls would not be allowed to leave. There is no choice in that. There is no scenario where I leave them behind. I will stare at the same wall and eat rice and rat meat everyday before I leave them behind in this situation.
Do Not Despair
I don’t mean to cause concern in those notions. We are doing very well. We are well fed, the girls are happy, Diem and I are happy, at least as happy as one can be in this situation. I do not mean to draw pity. We have a spacious living space, high speed internet, an incredible view, and the smell of the salty sea. If there is a place to be on lockdown in the world, this is it. We spend an insane amount of time cooking. It keeps me sane.
We have begun learning to make all of those things we take for granted. For me it has been a lot of Asian inspired things. Homemade rice noodles, the art of Hong Kong pork, and just exploring the Asian kitchen as I have never done before. For Diem it has been practicing the cuisine of her heritage. Working on her Vietnamese dumplings, chao (congee), or cold chicken salad. The latter is one of my favorites. The first time I had it was at our wedding. I realize now why, she loves it, and so do I.
What We Know Now
We are obviously still on a severe lockdown. The next flight I can book to Atlanta is October 25th. Though I have no guarantee that flight will actually take off. If the flight on October 25th does not leave Da Nang, then it will probably be time to prepare for a departure back to the US in 2021. Not the end of the world. It is just life. Da Nang appears to be containing the current outbreak as daily cases seem to be going down. But that can change in an instant as we all know.
So we continue to live. There is no sorrow or pain in our situation so do not worry. We are very happy and just incredibly glad to have each other. I do expect to have many lunches with many people when I do return to the US. Pizza will be the first thing on the menu. Everyone take care and look out for your fellow man and woman. Each other is all we have and it will take all of us to get all of us through this. God bless and I’ll see ya soon.
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or click a link below for some news stories from Da Nang and its efforts to eradicate the virus.
Da Nang urges population to remain diligent.
