This post is, of course, written of experiences a few weeks back. As many of my regular readers know things have turned quickly here in Vietnam. No community transmissions, zero deaths on July 27. A week later the number of community transmissions is in the hundreds with 6 deaths. I have been chronicling our experiences dealing with renewed lock downs and tighter restrictions.
I leave those unfortunate stories to the Dragon Diary pages. I’ll stick to the good stuff here in the standard Constant Epicurean posts. If you wish to read more recent updates on the virus situation in Vietnam click here. Without further delay I give a few weeks of a normal life in Vietnam. Departing Huế – Home to Da Nang.
Departing Huế
We woke relatively early for our recent activities. But no one seemed interested in stirring. I would say I speak for myself, but I know that not to be true, we were all exhausted. We had climbed massive stone staircases in the blistering sun, explored extensive historical grounds and floated down the serene river late into the night. The good news, at least for the tired children, was that home was coming soon. We lazily, and without much excitement, made our way to the restaurant for a little breakfast.
Our train departed at noon, and there was no reason to be in any hurry. Check out was a predictable 11 as it is in the rest of the world, so things just lined up perfectly. We ate our breakfast in a sleepy quiet and then made our way back for a short nap. After the nap things just kind of floated on. We called a cab, checked out, the bellhops loaded the cab and the cab drove us to the station. It was almost a hazy dream. I couldn’t wait to get back to my bed and sleep the afternoon away.
The Reunification Express
We arrived at the train station a bit early. Diem, the girls and I made our way to the outside by the tracks and ordered a few cold beverages. We sat amidst the brightly colored stalls peddling snacks, drinks and little toy trinkets. The heat was already substantial, but the train would be coming soon, and we had an air conditioned state room. In short order the train arrived and rolled by within a few feet of our position.
A Peaceful Ride Home
We made our way to the car stamped on our tickets and boarded the locomotive. The car was in an orientation opposite of the ride in, so it was our state room that had the better view. As the train rolled out of Huế, I was able to get a few good shots of the countryside. But I was tired and eventually resigned to our stateroom with Diem and the girls. Everyone fell asleep as the train laboriously and slowly rocked its way up the mountains and towards Da Nang.
Down Time
For the next couple of weeks things were very quiet. Da Nang was fully back to its pre-pandemic self and we fell immediately back into our routine. Dropping the girls off at school then meeting friends for coffee, exploring the night markets, afternoons on the beach. It was just life. The only thing that made it any different from before was very few westerners, and we couldn’t leave Vietnam. Other than those two truths, it was as it had ever been.
God Bless America
One morning I was really craving an American breakfast. You know, bacon, eggs, hash browns, maybe some sausage, something. I had done quite a bit of research and found a place about 3 miles south of us that specialized in American breakfasts. The reviews were great, it had survived the shutdown, I consulted Diem and we were in. With my mouth watering and the smell of bacon on my brain, we made our way south to Jeremy’s Kitchen.
It was a very cute little bakery slash bistro in an unassuming section of town. It was an order at the register kind of place. With a bakery case filled with donuts, cinnamon rolls and other breakfast pastries, and a hot menu. I ordered a large American breakfast, a French press of coffee, and Diem stepped out on a limb with a breakfast nacho, chilaquiles type of dish, and a vietnamese coffee. A few minutes later the food was served and I was in Heaven. Bacon, sausage, hash browns, fried eggs, grilled tomatoes (very British), and french toast.
The coffee was delicious, it had been the first time I had a cup of just hot coffee in so long I couldn’t remember, and the food was perfect. I don’t know if it was just the depth of my craving for something back home or if it really was the best breakfast I’ve ever had.
Sweet Home Alabama
As I was finishing up breakfast a gentleman walked to the counter from the back. He looked, well, a lot like me, and I assumed he was the namesake of the establishment. He was discussing a cake for a birthday with some locals, and when he finished I introduced myself.
It was in fact Jeremy, and he was the proprietor of the restaurant. We talked for awhile and it was an interesting conversation. He was from Dothan, Alabama, and it was really cool to know he was down the street from our apartment serving up some American fare, and good American fare at that. American I have learned, seems to be difficult for the rest of the world to duplicate. The most common thing I am asked to teach people to cook here is a good hamburger, which in itself is crazy to me. As it seems almost academic. But, I guess curry is academic to the Indian, as Boeuf Bourguignon to the French.
The Markets of Vietnam
I thought at some point It would be helpful to explain the differences in the markets here in Vietnam. It is such a daily part of life here. There is, at least in normal conditions, a daily market trip. It is woven into the very fabric of society. So much is consumed fresh here. About the only processed foods you really see in Vietnamese kitchens are flours and dried noodles. Even frozen food is relegated to just meat and its products, fish, vegetables and spring rolls. I did see a frozen pizza at one of the more western style large box grocery stores here. But it was a Korean brand and obviously there for the Korean visitor.
In fact, grocery stores here seem to be for foreigners and those items Vietnamese can’t get in the markets. Like instant noodles, meat in the afternoon, frozen fish, and ready to eat foodstuffs. But the markets do offer everything anyone could possibly need to survive and thrive on a well balanced healthy diet. Though they also offer more than that. Markets in Vietnam also offer entertainment, delicious cooked to order street food, cold beers, and belts. It just depends on what type of market you go to.
Not Every Market is the Same
The different markets can be broken down into a few main categories. Major markets, which I also refer to as tourist markets, Specialized wet markets, and night markets. There is a market for every time of the day and each type of market reflects its target by its offerings and operating hours.
Major Markets
These are the massive multi level markets that are one stop shops. Usually containing multiple floors and sections. They are often the places tourists, both foreign and domestic, go to get regional local specialties. It may be flowers, wine and strawberries, as in Da Lat, or the abundance of seafood as in Da Nang. These markets will offer everything from cookware, clothing, and fresh food. They will also have a “food court” were you can cozy up to a stall and order breakfast, lunch or a delicious sweet treat to snack on.
These markets usually operate from 6am to 6pm, and are massive labyrinths of anything you could possibly desire to purchase. In addition these markets are usually surrounded by streets filled with further businesses ranging from gold shops or electronics, and everything in between. Da Nang has two such markets, Cồn and Hàn Markets.
Specialized Seafood Wet Markets
Though the major markets are also “wet”, only centralized sections of them are as such. In every neighborhood in every city, and in every town, village and places in between are the now infamous wet markets. The wet markets are usually specialized. You can get most things at each market, but the bulk will usually be specialized. Just around the corner from our apartment is a seafood wet market. It usually doesn’t open until later in the afternoon as the boats finish unloading in the late morning and the market comes to life by early afternoon.
This is probably the craziest market I’ve been to. Often no more than a sea of vendors, sitting almost on the ground, surrounded by bowls, small kiddie pools and in some cases tanks, filled and piled with the day’s catch that just came off the boat. There is usually a produce section in every market, so if you want a seafood dinner it’s the only place you need to go. On the street outside the market will often be palates, trailers attached to motorbikes, or simply tarps thrown down on the sidewalk piled with fresh fruits and produce. A supply of water usually continuously runs along the ground through the market, washing away fish scales and other undesirables, giving the active markets the nickname “wet” markets.
Specialized Meat Wet Markets
Very similar to the Seafood markets are the meat markets. Though these tend to open earlier in the day and are more of a morning to early afternoon operation. At least the one closest to us is. It has a more substantial produce area than the seafood market, and does offer limited seafood in a small section on the side. However, the main attraction here is beef, poultry, and pork.
It has the same kind of constantly washed floor, again adding to the “wet” market distinction. In addition food isn’t refrigerated here. At the seafood markets you may see some fish on ice, but most non fish seafood is still alive. In the “wet” markets the expectation is that the animals are sold quickly after slaughter, before refrigeration is required. It’s a different world here, and one where for the most part, I eat everything fully cooked. If I want a true steak, I’ll go to a western grocer and buy it, otherwise it is thin sliced and served in a boiling hot broth, or stewed in curry.
Night Markets
The night markets are where it is at. More carnivals than markets, these markets usually start to open up just after nightfall. They, like other markets, have individual stalls. But here the stalls are filled with clothing, artwork, jewelry, games, and childrens activities. There is a massive food section, which has rows of street food vendors, dishing out quick and delicious treats. Da Nang, a coastal city and seafood mecca, has tons of fresh seafood for you to inspect and have thrown on a hot charcoal grill.
The children can paint, you can have an artist draw your picture, or find a pair of earrings or even a new belt. The night markets are fun, family affairs, and a great place to get to really get to know the pulse of the locals. The center of the night markets often has a portable Karaoke machine you can step up to and blast your favorite rendition for the entire market to hear. There are also carnival rides and street performers. They really are more carnival than market, and a great place to grab a cold beer and a snack while the kids play on a hot summer night. There is a night market in every major city, Da Nang has several due to its size. Most operate seven days a week, usually from 5pm to midnight.
A Side Note on Competition
Being an American, there is one thing about Vietnam I found both mind boggling, and at the same time, convenient. Whether you are in a city, or a market, everything is together. What do I mean by that? Let’s take Hanoi for instance. In the old section, a section of the city that has stood for over a thousand years, the streets are named as such. Gold Street, Silver Street, Raft Street, each street specialized in a trade, product or skill. You wanted a specific item, you went to that street. For the seller it seems that it would be madness in competition, but advantageous for the consumer.
In a world where it is not so simple to travel to the next town to find a specific type of fabric design, or piece of jewelry, this was very convenient. That same old sensibility still plays out in the major markets today. You want a pair of shoes? There will be 30 booths, stacked on top of each other, selling shoes.
There is a strange understanding that exists. While in discussion with one merchant, other merchants let the negotiation go on unimpeded. They may even let the negotiation collapse and you walk away only to come back to the same merchant after they have made a fresh offer. But somehow they know when you’re not buying from that merchant and then they pounce on you. It is a very crazy system, and as a westerner it is sometimes difficult to understand. I leave market purchases to Diem, she is the expert.
Day After Day
So the days continued in a simple manner, and life just rolled on. We would take the girls out to paint little statues at the night markets while I searched for the biggest lobster I could find. I did one night find a lobster the size of my torso. His claws were as long as my forearm. It was time that could have lasted forever. Though, eventually another big adventure did begin to appear on the horizon. Diem and my anniversary was approaching, and we were set for another amazing trip. This time we were headed to a UNESCO world biosphere reserve known as the Cham Islands.
It is expected to be another great journey to a little piece of paradise. Lightly populated and possessing coral reefs and a natural sight for the harvesting of swallow nests on the sheer cliffs. Used in the production of birds nest soup, one of the most expensive soup ingredients on earth. A pound of the dried nests can go for upwards of $5,000 usd. To say the least, I was excited to make our way to the Cham Islands. But it wasn’t as easy as just hoping on a boat. But I’ll save the interesting stuff for that post.
Click Here for a awesome little video of our ride back to Da Nang and to see some of the different types of markets.
