It has been a while since I spoke in detail about Da Nang. The city I’ve called home for much of the past two years. Such a fascinating, culturally rich city. Full of beautiful people and delicious food. I thought I’d delve deeper into the exciting and beautiful things that make Da Nang such a fantastic city in this post. A little history, a little culture, and a lot of food. Or at least some formula close to that. So come with me to explore one of my favorite places in the world: Da Nang – the city of bridges.
An Ancient City
The seafarers of the Cham Empire established the city as part of an important trade route in or about 192 AD. It would slowly grow over the centuries in both power and prestige. The Cham would move their capital to a location known as Indrapura, only 15 miles from Da Nang, between about 875 and 1000 AD. The proximity to the ancient capital would continue to strengthen Da Nang’s position in the region.
The Champa would eventually conflict with the Đại Việt, the precursors to the modern-day Vietnamese, around 1000. The Champa mainly were seafaring people. Controlling huge sea routes from Japan to Iraq, they had left much of their tenable lands unused. The southward expansion of the Đại Việt would consume what little fertile planes existed along the coast. Until finally expelling the Champa from the peninsula and controlling most of modern Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos by the beginning of the 16th century.
The Arrival of the West
The first recorded contact of a westerner in the region was that of Portuguese explorer António de Faria. Who anchored in Da Nang bay in 1535 and quickly began to spread the word of the coastal kingdom. The ancient trading city of Hoi An, a place Diem and I have visited many times, at this time had already been an important trading center for centuries. The Portuguese would establish a trading company in Hoi An soon after. This event would mark the place in history where a European presence in Southeast Asia would become permanent.
I’ve written in great detail about the rise of the Vietnam Empire and its eventual annexation by the French, so I’ll spare you here. However, I will place links at the end for those interested. The important thing here is that the river at Hoi An silted up at this time, and most trade routes and ports were all moved to Da Nang, just 20 miles north of Hoi An. This would continue to grow Da Nang’s influence to become central Vietnam’s most powerful and influential city.
The War Years
This critical period is where the story of Da Nang’s growth begins to explode. Da Nang was essentially the largest and most northern major metropolitan center at the US Army’s disposal. The city of Hue was further north and controlled by the US for most of the war, But Da Nang had deepwater ports, rail hubs, a massive airfield, and most importantly to any soldier with some R&R saved up, a massive beach. Da Nang’s My Khe beach was known during the war years by US servicemen as China beach.
Da Nang Airfield
Today’s Da Nang international airport was in the war years Da Nang airfield. It was known as Tourane airfield during the French Colonial years. Tourane was the French name for Da Nang during colonial times. Da Nang airfield would become one of the most impressive airfields ever used in combat and a symbol of death and destruction by those it targeted. In addition, it was the primary entry point for most service members entering Vietnam. If you know someone who served in Vietnam, they have probably been to Da Nang.
Da Nang airfield was so busy that Da Nang airfield was the busiest airport globally at the height of the US efforts. With a staggering average of 2,595 daily aircraft operations. To put that in perspective, Atlanta’s Harts field-Jackson, the busiest airport globally, averaged 2,465.75 flights per day in 2019 and did so with modern equipment and massive runways.
Three branches of the US military, the Air Force, Marines, and Army, all had significant bases at Da Nang airfield. In addition to military operations, the airport also served as an important hub for domestic flights in the region. The first deployment of US soldiers for combat to Vietnam landed at Da Nang airfield on March 8, 1965.
Monkey Mountain Facility
Off of our patio sits Son Tra mountain on the tip of the Son Tra peninsula. And an equally valuable piece of real estate for the American war effort. Jutting out into the South China sea, the mountain peninsula separates Da Nang bay from its sprawling beaches to the south. A strategically valuable location and one the US military seized upon early on in the confrontation.
The US Navy began surveying the mountain early in the confrontation. Then, in 1962, the Navy commissioned an air control and radar station on top of the northern peak. It was overlooking the beachhead, bay, harbor, and Da Nang airfield. The station was designed to manage communications in the region. The peak the military built the US station upon was no more significant than the size of a standard desk.
A massive military presence
By the completion of the project, both northern and southern peaks were in use. In an area flattened to the size of about 20 acres. In addition, a road was constructed around and up the mountain. The road is still in use today. As well as multiple light Anti-Aircraft missile batteries, a Control and Reporting station call sign Panama, Marine tactical data center, a signals intelligence base used to intercept North Vietnamese communications, tactical air control – north center, which controlled all flight operations over North Vietnam, as well as barracks, shops, and other support structures. It was a busy mountain.
The marines charged with securing the mountain made it their own. They were first to give the area its nickname Monkey Mountain. Due to the troops of Macaques and endangered Duocs that call the mountain oasis home. The name stuck, and even today, foreigners and English speakers still refer to the peninsula as Monkey Mountain.
Monkey Problems
A few days ago, I went fishing at the green lake on Monkey mountain and ran into a few monkey residents. A rather large troupe of Macaques, not the endangered species, and more of the abundant and mischievous type. They had claimed a rather large collection of trash they had confiscated from nearby trash receptacles and homes—a growing problem here in Da Nang.
Our neighborhood flows into the base of the mountain—something you can see from our patio pictures. The macaques often flood in after dark when the community is quiet, and trash is abundant on the streets awaiting morning pick up. It seems to be a recent problem, as local authorities attribute the current monkey issues with the extended lockdowns. The temple sights and spots people often visit to feed the monkeys have been closed for much of the year. The lack of tourism, combined with empty streets, has encouraged the monkeys to venture further into the neighborhoods.
Attempts to solve the problem.
To stamp out the problem, Da Nang has passed ordinances against feeding wild monkeys. But where there is a cute little monkey, there will be someone providing for it. However, the problem for Da Nang now is that the monkeys disturbing trash in the city are causing a growing concern for public health. With the spreading of monkeys and waste also comes the spreading of disease.
A little Culture
Vietnam is not traditionally considered a religious state, though much of the culture and tradition is steeped deeply in Buddhism and ancient Chinese Confucian thought. Though officially observing the western Gregorian calendar for state functions and business, the Vietnamese lunisolar calendar operates the heartbeat of Vietnam’s life and culture. It is this calendar that sets non-state holidays and commemorations. The lunisolar distinction drives the cultural and traditional aspects of life here. The calendar dictates when children go to school, when mid-autumn festivals will be held, and when to celebrate the New Year, the biggest celebration in Vietnam.
Chúc mừng năm mới
Chúc mừng năm mới can be heard from Hanoi to Phu Quoc. When you hear it, you know a celebration is on the horizon. Meaning Happy New Year is the most significant cultural holiday event in Da Nang and all of Vietnam. The entire country shuts down for two weeks, usually late January and early February. The thing I love about Lunar New Year in Vietnam is that everyone goes home. No matter where they live or what they are doing, Vietnamese always return to their family home, and it is an excellent event to experience.
You may not see your brothers, sisters, nieces, or nephews all year, but you will see them at New Year. We travel to my wife’s parents for New Year, and it is one hell of a party. Fireworks across the village, dragons parade through the homes, Karaoke, and whole pigs roasting on spits in the parade field. It’s an incredible thing to experience seeing the entire nation take a break from their busy lives and slow down to enjoy family and old friends.
Mid-Autumn Festival
Mid-Autumn Festival is another fun time in Vietnam and one that just happened about a week ago. Another festival spanning several days. It commemorated the eighth month of the lunar calendar and was once believed to be lucky to the Buddha. Again, night markets pop up with food and games for the children, and dragon parades begin their march through the homes of Vietnamese across the country.
Other cultural sites
In addition to the annual festivals, Da Nang has quite a few unique cultural offerings. The Linh Pagoda and Lady Buddha statue on Son Tra mountain offer a great experience exploring an active Buddhist monastery. Sculpted bonsai and amazing woodwork will keep you busy wandering the property for hours.
The Marble Mountains are another beautiful and exciting cultural experience. A site occupied by a Buddhist presence for centuries. The mountains are made of pure marble, and many of the staircases around the holy place are carved out of the mountain itself. In addition, an area around the hills offers sculpture houses and jewel shops to purchase items made from the stones and gems harvested in the region. With many temple caves and grotto alters, the Marble Mountains are sure to be on any list of cultural experiences in Da Nang.
Geography and Civil Works
Da Nang sits on the South China sea at about the center of Vietnam. Almost equally distant from the two largest cities, Saigon in the south and Hanoi, the capital in the north. Da Nang’s location, size, and relative isolation make it a vital trade route and the de facto capital of central Vietnam. Sandwiched between the Annamite Mountain range and the South China Sea, Its deepwater port and protected bay have made Da Nang an essential part of Vietnam’s growth.
Vietnam’s overall geography is a large river delta to the south, another large river delta to the north, and a thin strip of coastal plains and thick mountain jungle connecting the two. Much of Vietnam is uninhabited in any urban sense. Once you venture any substantial distance from the coast, in central Vietnam in particular, the countryside becomes mostly impenetrable jungle mountains. Even within the city limits of Da Nang, there are several rural districts with few inhabitants. Of Da Nang proper’s 495.53 square miles, 402.28 are rural zones. Approximately 90 percent of Da Nang’s residents live within the roughly 93.25 square miles of urban districts.
It’s Isolation
Da Nang is Vietnam’s fifth-largest city and very isolated from the other four metropolitan areas. Hanoi, the capital and second-largest city, sits far to the north in the Red River delta. Haiphong, Hanoi’s port city and the third-largest city overall, is only a couple of hours’ drive from Hanoi. The same is true in the south. Saigon, the largest city in Vietnam, is only a few hour’s drive from Can Tho, the fourth largest city. The cities are so close that their metropolitan areas almost overlap.
These massive northern and southern metropolitan areas have a more developed highway system, extensive rail links, and more accessible travel. But, of course, traffic is a different situation. This is not true for Da Nang. There is one way in from the south and one way in from the north. And no modern expressway in either direction. The only way north out of Da Nang is through the Hai Van pass. This relative isolation and only major city in central Vietnam makes Da Nang the fifth largest but third in most vital as it is the lifeline to the ports and trade routes from all of the central region.
The Pass
The Hai Van pass fascinates me. I have written several posts discussing its history and geography, so I won’t bore you here. However, I’d leave a link at the end if you missed it. Essentially a massive mountain range that juts out into the South China Sea and extends inland into Laos. A geographical barrier held back the Hans and Khans from the north and the Americans from the south. It’s just an impressive, imposing, and iconic symbol of Vietnam, both past and present. The peak of the pass is the northern city limits of Da Nang, separating it from the province of Thừa Thiên-Huế to the north.
The Hai Van pass has always been the only way from southern Vietnam into Northern Vietnam. You can now, however, cross through the pass via one of three land routes. The old mountain pass winds up to the top of the range and back down, the rail line that hugs the coast around the mountain pass, and the newly constructed tunnel that goes directly through the pass. The tunnel was completed in 2005 and reduced the time to navigate the pass by one hour.
Traversing the Hai Van Pass
I’ve had the pleasure of crossing the pass in all three forms. First, On our honeymoon, Diem and I traveled over by motorbike and then took the tunnel back to Da Nang. Then, just a few months ago, Diem and I took the girls to Huế over the pass by rail. That was a fantastic ride around the mountain, and once you see all the pictures in a previous post, I will also leave a link below.
Nga Ba Hue Interchange
In the western edge of Da Nang, near the airport, sits one of Vietnam’s most ambitious highway projects. The Nga Ba Hue Interchange opened to traffic in 2015 with many accolades. Opening on the 40th anniversary of Vietnam’s liberation, The three-level interchange is the largest of its kind in all of Southeast Asia. At the nation’s crossroads, you can travel to the four corners of Vietnam through this interchange. The gateway to the Hai Van Pass, and thus the gatekeeper of the north.
The entrance to the interchange occurs through the Nhu Mother roundabout, itself one of the busiest intersections in Da Nang. I had the privilege of walking through the neighborhoods and streets around the intersection and interchange. Always with the massive green mountain pass looming on the horizon.
National Highway System
Most of the roads outside of Da Nang revert to empty and bare country highways. Often under-serviced and underdeveloped, the pockets of interstate-style arteries are sporadic and not directly connected. Moreover, most modern interstates and highways are concentrated in the more densely populated northern and southern regions. This can make traveling any distance from Da Nang by road slow and laborious.
The distance from Hanoi to Saigon is about the distance from New York to Orlando. But to travel from Hanoi to Saigon would be the equivalent of travel to New York from Orlando entirely by state highways. It took us almost 24 hours to travel by bus to Saigon from Da Nang. A distance of only 500 miles. There are major civil projects underway to connect the remote cities. However, it will still be many years before they are complete.
The Bridges of Da Nang
You can’t talk about Da Nang without talking about its bridges. A city divided by the Han River to the west and the sea to the east. The piece of land between the river and the sea is known as Son Tra Peninsula, its most northern point being the Son Tra mountain, but it is an island, an Island that stretches south to Hoi An.
We also happen to live in the district of the same name, Son Tra. The Peninsula island is bordered to the northwest by Da Nang bay, the west by the Han river, The north by Son Tra Mountain, the east by the South China Sea, and the south by Hoi An and Quang Nam province. The peninsula makes up the new section of Da Nang. Home to the tourist areas, ex-pat neighborhoods, Da Nang’s world-renowned beaches, and most hotels and luxury apartments. Across the river in the city’s older section resides the airport, business districts, extensive markets, historic neighborhoods, government buildings, and city hall.
The division of the city requires many access points to cross from the peninsula to the mainland. This is where Da Nang’s famous bridges come in. Seven bridges are connecting the two halves, five multi-use for pedestrians and motor vehicles, one exclusively pedestrian over the river, and one pedestrian off the side of Ba Na mountain. These bridges provide the Da Nang skyline with a dynamic view and are iconic symbols for the city. Thus, giving the city its nickname, the city of bridges.
Dragon Bridge
You can’t talk about Da Nang’s bridges without mentioning the dragon bridge. Opening to traffic on March 29, 2013. In an inauguration ceremony that coincided with the 38th anniversary of the Liberation of Da Nang city. The symbolism was about the north winning the war and modern cooperation and renewed relationships. The American firms Ammann & Whitney Consulting Engineers, and the Louis Berger Group, designed and aided in the construction of the iconic bridge,
Dragon bridge has become the symbol of the city and the reason why I often refer to Da Nang as Dragon city. The bridge is a beautiful representation of industrial art, with its supports forged from steel into its dragon form. It illuminates into several colors in the night, and every Saturday and Sunday evening, the dragon comes alive. It spews fire and water over a crowd of spectators that gather for the show. The Dragon bridge serves as the quickest entry point from the airport to the beaches and tourist areas of the peninsula. It is usually the first sight one experiences leaving the airport.
Hàn River bridge
The Han river bridge is another exciting bridge in the skyline of Da Nang. Opening in 2000, The Han river bridge was the first of its kind in Vietnam. ABy construction, a swing bridge, the entire roadway pivots on its central axis to allow larger ships’ passage. A stylized lotus bloom sits at the apex of the cable support section, and the bridge also displays a beautiful light display at night.
I’ve personally never seen the swing action in service. The bridge swings to let large boats by from midnight to 4 am nightly. I just haven’t been awake and out at that time. Any vessels required to navigate from the sea to the river and vice versa must do so during those hours.
Thuận Phước Bridge
Thuận Phước Bridge is the largest and most imposing bridge in Da Nang. Opening in July of 2009, Thuan Phuoc Bridge is the longest suspension bridge in Vietnam. Crossing the mouth of the Han river where it enters Da Nang bay, the bridge connects the deep seaport in Da Nang bay at the base of Son Tra mountain with the mainland. The bridge needed to allow passage of giant maritime vessels underneath. Thus it was built with a clearance of 88 feet at low tide. I can tell you that driving across the bridge by motorbike is quite a rush.
With two large pillars measuring 264 feet in height and two massive anchors on each end. The bridge is an impressive sight with the beautiful Son Tra mountain in the background. From the midway point of the bridge, you can see Da Nang in its beautiful brilliance, especially at night.
Nguyễn Văn Trỗi and Trần Thị Lý Bridge
This is a story of two bridges side by side—one for pedestrians and one for vehicles only. The Nguyễn Văn Trỗi is the pedestrian bridge constructed for standard traffic by the US in 1965. Until the Han river bridge opened in 2000, this bridge was the only link from peninsular Da Nang to the mainland. The bridge was relatively small, and it being the only route into the peninsula made Son Tra an unattractive area for growth. But as Vietnam opened up to the world in the ’90s, the Son Tra peninsula would quickly become a hotspot for foreign investment and interest.
As other bridges were opening and Da Nang was rapidly growing, it has been outpacing most other Vietnam metropolitan areas for years now. It was clear that the old Nguyen Van Troi bridge was outdated and needed replacing. Being the only bridge for decades, the city did not want to let the old bridge go. So, upon the completion of the Trần Thị Lý in 2014, the original Nguyen bridge was converted to pedestrian traffic only. It is now a check-in hot spot for the Youth of Da Nang and a great place to walk out and admire the new and architecturally interesting Trần Thị Lý bridge.
Trần Thị Lý Bridge
This bridge is probably Da Nang’s most interesting from structural support and architectural standpoint. It is labeled as a cable-stayed semi-fan support bridge. The central tower leans west from the horizontal, and its support cables splay out in a complete fan on the eastern side and a partial fan on its west. It is just an interesting bridge in its design and makes for an eye-catching sight.
The Golden Bridge
The golden bridge is one of those bridges built for the sake of itself. Pedestrian, exclusively for tourism and purely aesthetic, the golden bridge has also become one of those iconic symbols of Da Nang. The bridge extends off of the summit of Ba Na mountain in Western Da Nang and offers unparalleled views of the city and sea. I have also written extensively about the Golden Bridge and will leave a link below if you missed it.
Da Nang’s Cuisine
I may be a little biased in the following statement. I believe Da Nang has one of the most vibrant and unique food scenes in all of Vietnam. You can find stranger things in Saigon and find simple, more traditional dishes in Hanoi. However, it is Da Nang’s cuisine that holds a special place in my heart. More bold than in the other regions, the food is fiery, vibrant, and even royal.
With the capital of the old Nguyen imperial dynasty only a few miles north of Da Nang, combined with the abundant spices produced in the hillsides, and the vast central coastline, Da Nang’s cuisine is surprisingly refined, sophisticated, and layered with more kick than in its sister regions. In addition, liberal use of chili, fermented shrimp pastes, and traditional and complex small plates, give Da Nang and central Vietnam a flare that is, in my opinion, not replicated in the other regions.
The Banh’s
Of course, anyone that knows anything about Vietnamese food is familiar with the Bánh mì, or my as it’s often scripted here. But do you know of the other Bánh’s? Bánh xèo, Bánh bèo, Bánh bột lọc, or Bánh nậm? Bánh is a generic Vietnamese term for anything that is bread or a cake in nature. The French word for bread is Pain, which is pronounced very close to the Vietnamese pronunciation of Bánh or bread. So everything from basic bread to a sweet cake dessert, even meat cakes like crab cakes, will begin with Bánh.
Bánh mì is the Vietnamese name for a French baguette but has come to mean a sandwich made from a French baguette over the years, which can get very confusing when going to a bakery slash sandwich shop only wanting the bread. I ask for hai Bánh mì, or two baguettes, and then struggle with expressing that I don’t wish any egg or chicken on them. Khong ga, khong, khong, khong. Hai Bánh mì. But I digress.
Bánh bột lọc
This is a delicious little treat that I first tried in Hoi An some time back. Essentially tiny clear dumplings stuffed with steamed shrimp and small strips of pork belly and topped with generous amounts of long fresh coriander, green onions, cilantro, a sweet and light fish sauce, fresh chili, and crispy fried shallots. The dumplings vary in size from a quarter to a standard potsticker and turn clear when steamed due to the flour mixture used. Tapioca starch is the main ingredient in the dough, which blooms into the magical clear wrapper around the delicious little bite-sized treats.
There is also a variation where the dough is wrapped in banana leaves with its stuffing. Served in the leaf, usually piled on a plate, you open the leaf and drizzle sweetened fish sauce on before eating. The treats are often held hot in coolers on the back of motorcycles. These little pocket treats are sold all over the city by merchants cruising around. This portable variation is referred to by the name bánh bột lọc lá and is a must if visiting Da Nang.
Bánh bèo
Translated as “water fern cake,” it is neither made from water ferns nor a cake. The dough is made from tapioca and rice flour. It is then pressed into the ceramic dishes and steamed. The unique treats then become translucent, smooth, and gelatinous. Bánh bèo can be served in the container or out. The banh bèo are typically topped with strips of fried squid, shrimp, shredded dried pork, and various other herbs and condiments. Additionally, they are served with a dipping sauce, a local variant of nuoc Cham, or chili and garlic-seasoned fish sauce.
The name derives from its similarity in appearance to the duckweed, a fern that grows abundantly in Vietnam, known as bèo. Bonus fact: Bánh bèo is also Vietnamese slang for a woman who is overly “girly,” weak-willed, complicated and high maintenance. The comparison is in the dish’s soft, slightly rubbery texture.
Bánh nậm
The tamale of Vietnam. Similar to the bánh bột lọc lá, only this variation uses a rice dough and focuses more on a ground meat mixture for its substance. Much larger than its tapioca cousin. These delicious back alley treats will have you thinking you’re in the Yucatan at first glance. But once you sprinkle on a little fish sauce, chili and take a bite, the flavors will immediately tell you where you are.
Typical stuffing for Bánh nậm includes spiced ground pork, wood ear mushroom, shallots, garlic, cashews, and prawns in various combinations. They are often sold at street-side stalls with bánh bột lọc lá. Of course, there is nothing better than grabbing a bag packed full and enjoying a snack on the beach. Or just people watching at a little plastic table on the sidewalk.
Bánh xèo
You will probably hear me say this several times, but this dish is one of my favorites. Essentially a crepe made with coconut flour and turmeric. In Da Nang, they are typically cooked with shell-on shrimp and sprouts. One of my wife’s favorites as well. It is one of her go-to dishes when it is her turn to cook. There is also a variation made in her hometown of An Lao, and I think that is probably why I have such a love for the dish.
Traditionally you take the crispy crepes, add fresh cucumber, herbs, and greens and wrap the whole thing in a rice paper wrapper. Depending on the style and variation, the wrapper may be a typical bánh tráng that must be dipped in water first. Or the very Vietnamese and tissue-thin bánh đa nem, which does not require moistening. Once wrapped, you dip your roll into various sauces. Typically nuoc Cham, but in some variations, a very pungent-smelling but delicious tasting fermented shrimp sauce known as mam nuoc, mam nem, or mam tom.
Bánh hỏi
Though not precisely a Da Nang dish, I’m going to sneak it in here. I’ve had it in Da Nang, but the food is associated chiefly with Bình Định Province south of Da Nang. My wife is from the province, and it’s a meal we often enjoy while exploring the regions south of Da Nang. The dish is more indicative of what one may consider rustic and is served in a very traditional Vietnamese family-style setting. The name Bánh hỏi refers to the rice noodle sheets served at the meal.
Cooked angel hair rice vermicelli is laid out on a sheet and sprinkled with chives. Once cooled, the sheet is cut into portions and serves as the “wrapper” for the other ingredients on the table. Often served with organ meats, sprouts, fresh herbs, greens, and dipping sauces. In some cases, a small bowl of Chao or rice porridge may be offered, often eaten at breakfast. You snatch up little pieces of organ meat and some vegetables with your noodle wrapper. Then dip in a sauce for a delicious and nutritious start to your day.
Mì sợi (noodles)
A discussion about cuisine anywhere in Vietnam wouldn’t be complete without talking about noodles, and Da Nang is no exception. Though I must say that the one thing I rarely eat in Da Nang is Phở. It’s just not a big part of the region. There are Phở shops. There are phở shops all over Vietnam. It’s just not a go-to dish in Da Nang. With the imperial city of Huế just to the north and Quang province to the south, Da Nang’s noodle scene is dominated by their specialties.
Mì Quảng
So this is probably a repeated phrase, but this is one of my favorite Vietnamese dishes—a specialty of the nearby Quang Nam Province. Da Nang was once the capital before becoming a centrally controlled first-class city in 1997. More on that later. As the province’s former capital, it makes perfect sense that its most iconic dish would be Da Nang’s as well.
Wide rice noodles are piled into a bowl. Either on top of or under a pile of fresh vegetables and herbs. Typically the dish includes lettuce, cilantro, mint, long coriander, sliced banana flower, scallions, and other uniquely Vietnamese herbs like rau đắng. Next, a small amount of rich broth is added to the bowl. The broth is typically seasoned more heavily than in traditional brothy noodle dishes and only enough to just more than coat the noodles. The broth is traditionally flavored with turmeric and annatto, often giving the noodles an orange coloration.
It gets better
The dish’s meat will often include shrimp, pork, quail eggs, chicken, and in rare cases, fish or beef. The plate is always garnished with roasted peanuts, lime wedges, and rice crackers. It is the most Da Nang of dishes, and when walking around the city, you see Mi Quang shops everywhere. Usually, a bowl will set you back less than a dollar, and I have filled my belly on the delicious regional noodles many times.
Bún bò Huế
Bún bò Huế is the most Vietnamese soup dish. Far more well known within Vietnam and ubiquitous in its distribution and availability. Initially developed in the royal kitchens of Huế, Bún bò Huế represents all of Vietnam in its complexity and ingredients. Created from what was available in the four corners of the old Empire, Bún bò Huế is a dish not to be missed.
A good bowl will have a nice chunk of beef, usually shank, small pieces of pork rib, belly and knuckle, a generous chunk of coagulated pork blood, a meatball of some sort, and maybe even a chunk of heart or liver. All are floating in a rich beef broth with rice vermicelli. It is typically garnished with green onion, sliced white onion, cilantro, Vietnamese coriander, chili, and fish sauce. It’s a bowl fit for a king and was a favorite during the age of the Emperors.
Bún Chả Cá
Another Da Nang favorite. Bún Chả Cá is the coastal seafood version of Bún bò. Here fish cake is the star. First, groundfish and seasonings are pressed into disks and balls before either being fried or roasted. The cake is then sliced, and the fish balls are combined with rice vermicelli. Next, a delicate seafood broth seasoned with tamarind and annatto is poured over the noodles and fish. The dish is garnished with pickled vegetables, green onion, sprouts, lettuce, chili, cilantro, and mint.
Da Nang style Bún mắm
Bún, as you are probably beginning to figure out, means rice vermicelli. So Bún bò Huế means Hue style beef vermicelli, Bún Chả Cá means vermicelli with fish balls or cake, and Bún mắm means vermicelli with fermented shrimp. In other regions, it is served as a hot soup like other bún dishes. In Da Nang, the version is an incredibly robust cold noodle salad that will surely tickle your nose.
Cold rice vermicelli, strips of chả bò, a Vietnamese beef roll similar to sausage, sliced steamed pork belly, young papaya, mango or jackfruit depending on the preparation, minced bird’s eye chili, a local sweet and sticky chili jam, roasted peanuts, fried shallots, baby mint, lettuce, Vietnamese coriander, and the notorious Mắm tôm, which gives the dish its name. A purplish, brownish concoction that smells of rotten shrimp and is visually unappealing. It is one of the most malodorous Vietnamese foodstuffs, but it can turn a dish from average to stellar as a judicious addition.
Salads
The last dish seems an excellent place to segway into the garde manger station of Vietnamese food. Salads in Vietnam, at least in the western sense, are not as separate from other dishes. Most dishes are served with what we in the west would consider a salad. The piles of lettuce, sprouts, herbs, and greens accompany almost everything in Vietnam. So it is a bit difficult to point out anything that on its own would fall into a salad category in a traditional western sense.
There are a few delicious dishes of Da Nang that I have discovered. Though not set apart by the Vietnamese conventional understanding as a salad, dishes I would consider as such. One thing that I’ve grown to love about the cold salad-style dishes of Da Nang is the use of unripe fruit. Something I have never really experienced prior. Of course, in the states working in restaurants, there have been times where we couldn’t precisely use ripe fruit out of necessity, but here in Da Nang, they are sought out. Some of these dishes only occur at the onset of harvest seasons. Just when the first tart fruits are beginning to emerge.
Xoài trộn khô bò
The dish is dressed with a mixture of tamarind puree, fish sauce, sugar, garlic, and citrus juice. The green mango adds a sour, not sweet note to the dish, though the essence of the mango flavor still comes through. Tart, sweet, spicy, herbaceous, crunchy, it’s just one of those dishes that once you try it, you’ll always want it. I’ve been known to fat boy a plate or two at a time myself. But, once you take a bite, it will be hard to stop.
This is arguably one of the most delicious, interesting, and complex dishes I’ve ever eaten—a variation of a central Vietnamese salad that is based on “young” papaya, meaning unripe. The Da Nang version uses mango. The tart green mango is shredded like a carrot and then combined with rau răm (Vietnamese coriander, which is not related to coriander and which I’ve not seen in the states), sliced chili, roasted peanuts, fried shallots, and shredded khô bò (Vietnamese beef jerky).
Gỏi bò khô
Similar to our previous entry, this cold salad is served with the more typical young papaya. Shredded papaya is piled with fresh baby mint, roasted peanuts, and strips of dried beef liver. The version I’ve tried in downtown Da Nang was drizzled with dark soy, chili oil and served with a pourer of white vinegar. The dried beef liver gave the dish a depth of flavor and interesting texture. Due to the drying process, the liver was firm and what I would deem as al dente. A satisfying yet straightforward option.
Mít trộn
Another of the unripened fruit salads. This dish focuses primarily on the young jackfruit. Typically only available at the beginning of the harvest before the large fruits have had time to ripen. The large fibrous fruit is steamed to soften and then shredded. It looks, at first glance, like lump crab meat.
The shredded jackfruit is combined with water mint, cilantro, crispy shallots, roasted peanuts, a sweet and sour dressing of vinegar, fish sauce, sugar and chili, and usually some meat. Typically some type of pork or shrimp. The variation we eat in Son Tra typically uses braised, chilled, and thinly sliced pig ears. In addition, the dish is traditionally served with rice crackers.
Nộm gà xé phay
This is another of Diem’s go-to recipes. A dish she enjoys a great deal, it was served at our wedding, and a dish I quite enjoy as well. Another simple dish consists of a whole poached chicken that has been chopped up: bones and all—then mixed with chili, rau răm, fish sauce, a little sugar, and garlic. I remember the first time I tried the dish. It was a bit cumbersome, sifting through the rib bones. I was caught by surprise when I grabbed a nice chunk and then found myself staring at a chicken’s face. But the dish is delicious and one I’ve also grown fond of.
Other Specialties
Da Nang also has a few delicious dishes that don’t necessarily fall into the other categories. The Banh’s, Bun’s, soups, and salads. This section will include the skewer and rice dishes that fill out the city’s cuisine.
Nem lụi and cháo tôm
These two dishes are very similar in preparation and how they are eaten. The only real difference is the ingredients used in the preparation. Both are skewered dishes, one with pork and lemongrass and the other with shrimp and sugar cane. Nem lụi is made with seasoned ground pork formed around a skewer made of the lemongrass stalk and then grilled. Cháo tôm is made similarly. Only the meat is made with shrimp and garlic pounded into a paste and formed around a sugar cane skewer.
Both dishes are served with the typical garden of herbs, lettuces, and cucumber. As well as dipping sauces and tissue-thin rice paper. The rice paper is held in the palm and topped with lots of vegetables. The skewer is then placed on top. The paper is folded to grip the meat and then pull the skewer out. It is all then rolled up neatly and dipped in Nuoc Cham or fermented shrimp sauce.
Cơm
Cơm is about as basic of a dish as one can find in Da Nang and Vietnam in general, which means simply rice. The street version we regularly enjoy in Da Nang consists of roasted or boiled chicken or pork belly over sticky rice. It’s a straightforward dish that comes to life with its condiments—typically topped with fried onions, seasoned fish sauce, boiled eggs, herbs, and the irresistible chili jam. It is an abundant dish around town and can be found on just about any street in the city. It is a great quick meal if you want something delicious, filling, and fast.
Quán Mậu bánh tráng thịt heo
This dish is so effortless in its design that it almost didn’t make a list. It was only after enjoying the plate several times that I discovered it was a unique dish unto itself. One very popular in and around Da Nang. Simply translated to pork roll, the dish focuses on one main ingredient at its core—poached pork belly. Pork belly is poached in lightly seasoned stock, chilled, thinly sliced, and arranged on a platter.
The dish is always served with tissue-thin bánh đa nem rice paper, lettuce, sprouts, mint, basil, shredded banana flower, cucumbers, and other fresh green vegetables. A healthy serving of greens and herbs is laid on a piece of the paper, a few pieces of sliced pork belly are piled on and rolled up. The bánh đa nem, or banh Trang paper that is so thin the freshly cleaned greens and herbs moisture soften the wrapper. This requires the rolls to be hand-made by the diner as they are eaten.
Finishing the dish
To make the dish authentic, it is always served with the more pungent Mắm nêm. The sister of regular nuoc mam is made exclusively from anchovies, is more pronounced in flavor, and is often combined with fresh garlic and chili. A simple yet powerfully flavored dish that is wonderful to enjoy with a table of friends and a few cold beers.
A Walk on the Wild Side
Now onto the fun stuff. As most know, and perhaps some don’t want to know, Vietnam is home to pretty strange foods. At least by western standards. Da Nang is no different in its bizarre foods. So if you think any of the previous dishes were a bit much, wait until you see what’s next.
Snails
Snails are a huge part of the Vietnamese diet. I thought the French had the lock on the title of snail eaters of the world. I was utterly wrong. There is no shortage of the types, preparation methods, and dishes composed of snails, from land to sea.
Ốc hút
Da Nang’s most notable snail dish is Ốc hút, meaning spicy snails. Every time we visit family, or they come to visit us in Da Nang, be assured we will have a plate of Ốc hút. I’ve grown quite fond of the little meaty delights, and they can be made from a wealth of snail varieties. Periwinkles, whelks, apple snails, and on and on. They are drowning in a spicy broth of lemongrass, garlic, herbs, and chili. So grab a toothpick, pluck them out, and down the hatch they go.
Hột Vịt Lộn
This is probably the dish I get hell about the most, from a position of disgust, cruelty, and old-fashioned yuck. Hột Vịt Lộn is the Vietnamese name for Balut, which, as many know, is the fertilized, primarily developed egg of some type of poultry. Typically duck, though quail is also prepared. It is a popular dish throughout Vietnam, but the Da Nang preparation is more about eating than cooking.
In Da Nang, the eggs are usually cracked into a bowl and topped with fresh basil or mint. The eggs are cracked into a bowl to preserve the delicious liquid to soak up the accompanying salt. The salt mixture is typically mangrove sea salt, cracked black pepper, occasionally dried chili flake, and a small Vietnamese lime juice. The citrus salt is sprinkled on each bite giving the rich embryos a salty and tart zing. I particularly enjoy the quail variety, and sometimes you can even find them served in a bowl of noodles.
Con nhộng
This is a dish that I have not had at a restaurant or a street stall, but something my wife Diem prepares at home. The inner grub of the silk moth cocoon is a rich source of protein that has been harvested in Vietnam and China for thousands of years. The silkworms themselves are fed mulberry leaves and tended to with great care. Once they form cocoons to transform into moths, the cocoons are opened, the pupas are removed, and the cocoon is “degummed” and woven into silk.
The process of making silk creates an incredible abundance of pupa. It was discovered to be an excellent protein and vitamin source since the birth of silk production some 5,000 years ago. An ancient Vietnamese adage loosely translates that the family who raises silkworms will keep full bellies and warm from the wind. My wife typically sautees the pupa with garlic, onion, chili and serves them with fish sauce. The texture is surprising, close to a fried chunk of potato with a slightly tough skin. The fresh pupa can be purchased at any grocery store in the country, and due to their potato-like texture, they are a great way to step into Vietnam’s weird world of food.
Chuột đồng
So I haven’t actually had this dish in Da Nang, but I thought this would be a great place to discuss it. Chuột đồng means rat meat, and it is a lot more common in Vietnam than one might think. To be clear, the Vietnamese do not eat the typical city rats that infest cities around the globe. The Vietnamese know better than that. Instead, they consume a particular species known as the rice-field rat and more closely resembles a mouse. The field rat only gets up to about half a pound on average and is typically hunted just after the rice harvest.
The end of the harvest usually is a lean time for the villages as it usually means the coming of the monsoon and scarcity for the animal inhabitants. This typically forces the field rats to higher ground, where the villagers set traps for the retreating vermin. Usually charred over an open flame and served with fish sauce. It is done in Da Nang, though as I said, I have not had it here. Instead, I ate the field rat in a riverside stilt hut in the central mountains. It is also typically served with homemade grain beer, which was how it was served to me. All I can say about the field rat is, it tasted like squirrel meat. What does squirrel taste like, you ask? Chicken.
A Sweeter Side
Vietnamese cuisine, in general, is not known for desserts. In Vietnam and Da Nang, Sweets are more cold treats to stave off the heat and aren’t typically served at the end of a meal. If anything is served after dinner, it is usually a variety of fresh fruit or a flavored agar jell during holidays and celebrations. We almost always have fresh-cut watermelon, grapes, mango, or melon to satisfy any sweet tooth when we cook at home. However, that doesn’t mean that there aren’t some incredible sweet dishes to be had in the city of bridges.
Kem Bơ
I’m going to go ahead and say if I include a sweet treat in this post, then it is because it has left an incredible impression on me. Kem Bơ is no exception. Fresh scooped avocado placed in the bottom of a glass, then topped with coconut ice cream and toasted freshly shaved coconut. Its brilliance is in its simplicity. The fatty, earthy avocado, sweet, creamy ice cream, and crunchy coconut are simply divine. You can find Kem Bơ shops all over Da Nang, and it is one of the best ways to cool off on a hot tropical day.
Chè
This name can mean many things, but it will usually be liquid with either bit of jello, firm pudding, fruit, or even cooked beans. Called sweet soup by many English speakers, it is a surprisingly delicious and refreshing dish. You can find a few different varieties in Da Nang. I enjoy a white bean variety, a sweet syrup poured over cooked soybeans and topped with coconut cream and shaved ice.
My favorite, however, is a version sometimes called Chè hoa qua, though it is sometimes called different things in different regions. A simple, transparent liquid made from the essence of lychee and sometimes lavender. Chunks of fruits and flavored jellies like almond and coconut are added to the liquid and topped with ice and toasted almonds. A dish that is refreshing beyond description, the dish is an absolute pleasure to enjoy on a hot sweltering day.
What To Do In Da Nang
Besides enjoying the many specialty dishes, Da Nang offers a great variety of leisure and travel activities to keep anyone busy. From world-class beaches to mountain getaways, Da Nang is quickly becoming a popular destination for vacationers worldwide.
Beaches
Da nang sits where the Han river deposits into the sea. Beaches abound in Da Nang, but not all you will want to visit. The beaches on the bay are not well maintained and are often full of seaweed and garbage washed up onshore. Though the bay offers beautiful views of the Hai Van Pass and the port at Son Tra mountain, if sunbathing and swimming is what you’re after, then head to the city’s seaside.
My Khe
On the seaside, you’ll find two of Vietnam’s most beautiful beaches. My Khe to the north sits on the coast from Son Tra peninsula and runs 20 miles south through Da Nang. Its beaches are well maintained, with crews daily cleaning and combing the sands. Considered one of the most picturesque beaches, the beautiful untouched Son Tra Mountain with her Lady Buddha statue overlooking the sea is about as beautiful of a picture as you’ll find. You can even travel to the north end and catch the fisherman hauling in their daily catch and buy fresh seafood right out of the net.
Non Nuoc
My Khe would probably be the most beautiful beach in central Vietnam if it weren’t for Non-Nuoc. Sitting south of My Khe, Non-Nuoc runs about 2.5 miles from My Khe to the city’s southern limits. The distance from the city center makes this beach less disturbed and is known for its mild waves, cleanliness, and soft white sand.
Closing
Da Nang is a beautiful coastal city on the South China Sea, known as Vietnam, the Eastern Sea. With stunning mountain passes, an abundance of parks and recreation areas, and countless markets and places to explore. It has been a wonderful experience being able to live in this fantastic coastal city. I hope you’ve enjoyed this journey through the cuisine, history, and architecture of Vietnam’s coastal gem.
Click any of the links below to read about some of the topics touched on here but in more detail.
The Emperors, History, and the rise of France in Vietnam.
Hai Van Pass and Golden Bridge.
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