A Hostel Morning
As I awoke in the cool light of the rising sun, the morning breeze was ever so gentle as it softly caressed my face. I cracked open an eye and assessed the situation. it was acceptable that I found myself in the hostel and in my bed, everything seemed to be in order, mission accomplished. I climbed out of the blue steel bunk and headed to the restrooms to freshen up. Most of the hostel was still fast asleep, no doubt recovering from whatever tales of the previous evenings activities. I vaguely remembered playing beer pong with an Australian and two Germans, maybe one of them was Austrian, I couldn’t be sure.
Parrots
I perused the kitchen as the night watchmen was preparing the continental style offerings. A pitcher of orange juice, coffee, assorted bagels, oatmeal packets, fresh mandarin oranges, and bananas cut in half. As well as all the sugary and buttery accoutrements that accompany such a high class breakfast buffet. The kitchen itself was well equipped, plenty of fridge space and comercial cookware. One could easily “throw down” in this kitchen, if one was so inclined. I Poured a cup of coffee and sat on the back patio as the daylight solidified. I listened to the parrot’s morning talk show as a Spaniard sat down across from me. He held out a lit joint and gave me a nod. It was barely 7 in the morning so I waved a hand and politely declined.
Aliens Ate My Breakfast
I headed back up the side alleys of Ocean Beach to again retrieve Davin from his nightly resting place. The sun was dancing around the clouds like quicksilver this morning, in a mesmerizing chromatic display. We lazily strolled the side streets down to the Old Townhouse Restaurant and had a delicious diner style California breakfast.
The real life!
After we were satisfied, we headed back out to the streets to meet up with a crew of our friends again for a fun filled day in the city. The streets of Ocean beach are always interesting even in the empty morning. Discarded yet creative cardboard signs announcing the holders needs and reality. The tiles that line the streets of O.B. Small ones, 4×4 or so that line the sidewalk and display characters current and past who just wanted to express their love of OB. You can meet with the local Ocean Beach Tile Project to install your own tile. When I was here last year I walked the entire strip and read them all. Thousands it must be, each unique and special. I might purchasing my own tile. Look for it’s instillation in early 2020. I digress, We gathered the crew and a few supplies and headed off to Coronado Island.
Coronado Island
Coronado Bridge
The drive to Coronado Island is a pretty fascinating journey in its own right. In downtown San Diego you exit I-5 onto state hwy 75 and across The Coronado Bridge. Officially known as the San Diego-Coronado bridge, her story is both interesting and intriguing. San Diego Bay itself is one of the most secure bays in the Americas. Resembling the mouth and throat of a rat, she has the ability to house and protect an entire naval fleet. With the Naval Air base at the northern tip of Coronado beach and the massive naval base near by, it isn’t uncommon to see helicopters and fighter jets patrolling the skies over the beach. It gives this boarder city a tangible sense of pride for the men and woman in arms that protect this great nation. It’s a sense of support and love for our armed troops one might be surprised to experience in this region of the nation. I don’t mean for that to have meaning, It’s just something I wasn’t expecting, but I am glad I did.
The Navy fought for years to block a bridge connecting Coronado to Downtown in fear that a bridge which separated the naval base from the open sea was a liability. After many years of entanglement, all parties came to an agreement. Construction began In February of 1969 and was open to traffic on August 3rd, 1969. The bridge is of unusual construction due to the needs of the navy. Being one of the busiest U.S. naval bases in the world.
The Bridge would need to allow passage of any Naval Vessel in commission during its construction and do so without interruption of traffic flowing over the bridge. The Span is to short for a bridge to connect at the two closest possible anchorages, as most bridges would attempt, and allow aircraft carriers to pass underneath. What was created was a bridge that climbs immediately into the sky out of downtown San Diego, takes an 80 degree turn as it reaches Coronado, then uses an additional length parallel to the shore to slowly descend onto the island. We dropped down into Coronado and into the past.
We hopped off of our transport and hit the streets. Fun storefronts, clean streets and manicured sidewalks. Coronado is always an amazing place. We took a short walk to our favorite Coronado eatery, the Tavern. A Victorian styled eatery, with great fries, cold beer and delicious food. I remembered having a strip steak sandwich last year that was heavenly, but this time something grabbed me. A red beet pastry with a pistachio bib salad and chive cream. You had me at beets.
A Tangent
I go off on these tangents sometimes, but I think their important to understand who I am. A word as simple as beets transports me to my youth in the culinary world. It was the dawn of Y-2k and I was working the Garde Manger station at the Food Studio on West Marietta street at the King Plow Art Center. Garde Manger in french means “keeper of food” in English it means piece of shit. It was a world that I escaped to.
Originally from Alabama, growing up in rural Newton County, Culinary School was a place to escape to. A place to learn and experience all the things I read about and viewed on T.V. I learned about risotto, Foie Gras and Champagne. I ate and lived in a world out of reach for many years. I’ve prepared hors d’oeuvres at Jane Fonda’s penthouse and dinner for Elton John at the cotton club. In between we would drink ourselves silly at Northside Tavern or almost die at the hands of bouncers at the Masters (a by gone club in Atlanta). It was an amazing time to be a chef in Atlanta, but I digress from my digression.
The first great Chef I ever worked for was Christopher Brandt. A humble and amazing Chef, he always seemed invested in my ability, I realized later it wasn’t his interest in me personally , only in the success of the restaurant. In this realm he taught me the beauty of beets and the importance of herbs. I learned that even when a celebrity crosses your path you must act as if it was your gardener. One of many lessons I would learn in my time in the wilderness, I mean business. So Chef Brandt taught me some amazing things. We sauteed head on shrimp, cleaned foie gras, prepared sweetbreads and learned the intricacies of mashed potatoes.
Just as fast as he came in to the scene he left. I caught a few years with Chip Ulbrich, now the master of South CIty Kitchen, Tod Mussman (my man), who would orchestrate his own empire, and Jeff Smedstad. Jeff was probably one of the most influential chef’s I’ve ever worked with. He taught me to think outside of parameters. To french things up, as I was taught in Culinary School, was to dilute what was internationally unique about food. Jeff Taught me to throw out conventional techniques and blaze a unique path. For six months I had the privilege of working under the greatest Latin Cuisine Chef in America. We would braise pork and drain taps. It was quite an amazing experience.
In short I learned the subtleties of food within the parameters of these great men. I learned to cure meat, ceviche shrimp, Identify epazote and develop this amazing world around me. A trip to market, a new restaurant, an incredible experience became available to me always. The world I wanted and the world that was available merged into one. I began to live a champagne lifestyle on a beer budget.
Coronado Hotel
Ranked in the top beaches of the world, she is always California’s finest. She is Coronado beach in San Diego, California. An Island resort city directly across San Diego Bay from Downtown San Diego, She is the crowning jewel of California. Incorporated in 1890, just two years after the completion of Hotel del Coronado and barely 20 years after the completion of the transatlantic railroad. Originally a barren island void of trees and fresh drinking water, It would take the vision of a few early Californians to turn her into a global travel destination. A quaint and unique city an almost metropolitan Mayberry, She boasts beaches of gold and one of the most storied 19th century Hotels ever built. ‘
The Hotel Del Coronado. Still open for business today, as you walk around her fabled grounds, you get an amazing since of the grandeur and spectacle that was the gilded age of America. A time when dreams and labor only cost money and the marvels of America were invented. Producing the achievements of men like Carnegie, Rockefeller, Morgan and Teddy Roosevelt, birthing the likes of Babe Ruth, Charles Limburger and Howard Hughes. One can’t help of seeing the dying Orson Wells as he drops the snow globe and whispers gently the word “rosebud”. One of the few surviving Victorian Beach style resorts still in existence today and the second largest Wooden structure in America. The Hotel Del Coronado exists in a place and time in America now only dreamed of and seldom remembered.
The Beach
If the hotel wasn’t enough to make the island dreamy, then the beach at Coronado is simply spectacular. The white sandy beach seems to stretch beyond the horizon. The amount of space and dry sand at Coronado is absolutely mind expanding. You get an umbrella near the resort to make cocktails an easy grab and it’s only a few football fields to the water. Leave the drink behind and start hiking, the sandy knoll is massive the breeze delicious. You begin the trek to the waters edge and the resort and facilities fade into the background. The glistening water comes into view. The sun is just right, the water perfectly cool and clear and the sand begins to glow gold in the brilliant light of the midday sun. The water is incredibly refreshing and we spend an hour or so just breathing in the scene. The smell of salt and sand, the warm sun on your face, the cool wind in the air. It truly is one of the most beautiful beaches in America.
She is so incredibly beautiful in fact, that visiting her has become an annual tradition. This is the second spring break I’ve spent in San Diego. I strangely, without any effort, had created a tradition I hope to continue for many years to come. The amateur sandcastle competition was well under way and it was fun to check them out in different years. We wrapped or time up on Coronado and headed back to Ocean Beach
The Greatest Sunset
After Coronado we headed back across the bridge and to Ocean Beach. we headed to Ocean Beach Surf Lounge and had an amazing experience. Next to the Blue Water Seafood Market it is a jewel in Ocean Beach. You climb the stairs and enjoy the setting sun. I had an amazing plate of fish tacos and enjoyed the environment. As the sun finally set below the horizon a bell rang, anyone who wanted could have a shot with the setting sun. A tradition that takes place every evening, no matter what the weather. The clouds were perfect, the sun was just right and the atmosphere was electric. All I can Say Is that it was the greatest sunset I have ever seen. I headed towards the open windows and took the picture of a lifetime.
