The Arrival
Diem and I landed in Chiang Mai around noon local time. It was warm, humid, and beautiful. We took a short ride to our hotel. A modest little abode with a comfortable bed and air conditioning, very clean, but not much else. It was located just inside the ancient wall that surrounds the old city. There was no television, which was fine by me, and no refrigerator. Also fine. I didn’t expect to spend much time here, as it was barely 1 pm, and I was itching to hit the streets and check out some of the city.
Chiang Mai
Founded on April 12, 1296, by King Mangrai as the new capital of the Lanna kingdom. The city quickly realized it needed defenses from growing powers like the Mongols and Bamar. Chiang Mai was built with protection in mind. With the ability to design his new capital from nothing, King Mangrai set about creating one of the most symmetrical cities the ancient world had seen.
With an almost perfect square design, the city was surrounded by a moat that still exists today. The earth that was pulled for the moat was used to erect the original wall. As well as four large ramparts at the corner of the cities. The defenses surrounding the city measured to what can only be described as a strange coincidence or 1 mile per side.
With the city’s central location on major trade routes and access to massive river systems, Chiang Mai would become significant in trade and commerce over the coming centuries. Seemingly in a perpetual cycle of defend, fall and rebel. Chiang Mai saw a considerable influx of many cultures and traditions from all over the region.
King Rama V once said of his northern city, “Chiang Mai represents the prime diamond on the crown of Thailand. The crown cannot be sparkle and beauteous without the diamond.” There was no typo there. Additionally, in the Travel and Leisure article of Best Cities in the world for 2019, I’ve significantly written of number 1 Hoi An in Vietnam. Chiang Mai sits at a respectable number 3. These are some of the many reasons we had come here now, to explore northern Thailand and the City of Temples.
Temple City
After freshening up from our trip, Diem and I both were hungry. The quiet little Inn where we are staying has a quaint little Thai restaurant, shocking, I know. So, we posted up at a table on the patio. Two plates of Pad Thai, one pork and one chicken, a beer, and a mango smoothie. We hadn’t even left the hotel property and stared right at a Wat (Temple in Thai). The massive Gold gilded Chedi sat shining in the sunlight behind us as we enjoyed our lunch.
Greater than 100 is the number one would use to describe the many of temples and religious sights within the city’s ancient walls. Yes, an area 1 mile squared is home to over 100 sacred sites and temple structures. And some of them, mind you, are enormous. So after a delicious plate of Pad Thai and a beer, we explored.
If you were curious, two plates of Pad Thai at 40 thb each, a beer at 40 thb, and a mango smoothie at 50 thb. A Thai Baht is about 3 cents. So two meals, a beer, a super fresh smoothie, and a drum roll, please, about $5.63. And in Thailand, as in most of Southeast Asia, the tip is included in the price. Additionally, for those that think it’s expensive to travel, my hotel room for a week in Thailand is $93.
Driving Conditions
I digress. We headed out to see what the inner city had to offer. It is evident how the shops are designed and landscaped to a more western sensibility. And most people here speak English. It is much more established in tourism than in Vietnam. There were also many more Westerners here than back in Vietnam and much fewer motorbikes. The streets were still narrow, like in Vietnam, but cars dominated. Several times Diem and I would walk down the center of an alley. And several times, the engine’s heat at my rear and the sudden realization of a low hum behind us would cause us to get out of the way apologetically.
Two things Diem and I were both going to have to get used to here, people don’t use their horns, and they sit and drive on the wrong side. I know that’s not exactly politically correct to call them bad for that, but hey, they are. Isn’t it easier for both of us to say we are wrong? Otherwise, it becomes semantics. “you drive on the right side of the road.” “I know, the left side is the right side. That’s the side I drive on”. “Oh, you drive on the right side, well that’s wrong, left is right and right is wrong,” and then someone dies.
A Walk In The City
Again, I digress. I wasn’t quite prepared for the quantity and quality of the temple sights here in Chiang Mai, they were every three blocks, and some were beside each other. It was insanely dense and would take far more effort than I realized to catalog and research these temples.
On our first afternoon in Chiang Mai, we walked about 5 hours, about a mile and a half, and saw at least three dozen sights. There were dozens more within the walls we didn’t see and dozens more outside. They’re plentiful and impressive, and some were breathtaking. The Wat Chedi Luang Varavihara site has structures built with the city’s establishment over 700 years ago. Everything was just astonishing.
I reached Wat Chedi Luang as a prayer service was beginning. All of the temple sites we explored today were active sites. Some even had schools with young orange and purple-robed children already preparing for their lives as monks. I can’t imagine training for a life as a Buddhist monk at the age of primary school, but I didn’t come here to explain or question. I came here to experience it.
Wat Puak Taem
The Wat Puak Taem site was founded in the 15th century, sitting across the alley from our room. Though most of the structures on the site have been constructed within the last century, The site still has a few impressive features.
Wat Phuak Hong
It was built sometime in either the 16th or 17th centuries. Its name translates to “Temple of the flight of swans,” and its architecture is a bit unusual for the area. Thought to have been influenced by Burmese occupiers, as its gates are flanked by two Chinthe, or mythological lions often seen guarding Burmese temples. It has a striking difference from its other city neighbors.
Wat Muen Ngoen Kong.
The “Temple of the ten thousand piles of money” was built sometime in the 14th century. It is known for its giant reclining Buddha and is a decent-sized sight. Made in the old Lanna style, she is beautiful and complex. Somehow I didn’t get a photo of the reclining Buddha, but he is in the video that you will find a link for at the end.
Wat Phra Singh, The Golden Temple
This temple complex began shortly after the founding of Chiang Mai. Construction started in 1345 as Wat Lichiang Phra but changed to its current name after the statue of Phra Buddha Singh was brought to the Temple in 1367. The second most honored Temple in the area after the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep sits up the mountain overlooking the city. The statue that gives the Temple site its name, as legend tells, came to Chiang Mai from Ceylon, present-day Sri Lanka.
The complex’s grounds offer a massive array of new and old temples, but the original Temple offers history its most extraordinary glimpse. The paint on the walls is so old. In many places, it is almost gone. There are barriers preventing anyone from touching the walls, but remember, this is still an active religious sight. As we entered, a Monk was offering active prayer and Buddhist blessings in the corner.
Main Temple
Other Sights On The Grounds.
Wat Chedi Luang
One of the most potent sites in Chiang Mai, Chedi Luang, sits almost at its center. An impressive complex, offering an ancient ruined temple and a massive modern monastery built on the complex in 1928. The main Chedi was finished in 1441. It was said to be a powerful presence in the Chiang Mai skyline. Walking around it now, I have no doubt.
The top of the Chedi was partially destroyed by what is thought to have been Burmese cannon fire in 1775. But some say it could have been an earthquake. Though still active as a religious site, the Temple itself is off-limits to visitors as there is a significant restoration project currently underway. Nevertheless, to see this ancient and massive structure is pretty impressive.
The Chedi
The Complex
I walked into the modern monastery just as prayer time was beginning. It was such a powerful feeling inside the massive hall. Ceilings so high, I can’t begin to speculate and gold gilding everything. I sat at the moment and just took in the sounds, smells, and sights—a very spiritually moving moment.
The day and temples seemed to be never-ending. But the sun was setting, and Diem and I were hungry. So we strolled the half-mile back to the room and headed out for dinner. The night market was only a 10-minute walk away, and it was time to get our local grub on.
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