After the Summit
The summit and nature trails of Doi Inthanon were beautiful, ancient, and amazing in their own way. But they were lacking in a view of the surrounding countryside. The cloud forest was thick, primeval, and virtually impenetrable. Leaving no space for sweeping views of the endless jungle forests below. The perfect spot was about 2 miles off the summit and a few hundred feet lower in elevation.
A Prince Is Born
King Bhumibol, the ninth monarch of the Chakri Dynasty to the Crowned Throne of Thailand, was born on December 5, 1927, at Mount Auburn Hospital, Cambridge, Massachusetts. The youngest son of the youngest crown prince of Thailand. Who at the time was studying public health at Harvard University. Strangely enough, Bhumibol’s father would die of kidney failure two years later in Bangkok at 37.
Being in no “danger” of ascending the thrown, his commoner mother kept Bhumibol in either the United States or Switzerland from his birth until the end of WWII. Bhumibol, not expecting to ascend the thrown either, studied everything from photography to political science and even jazz saxophone in his adopted lands. He spoke several languages and was as well versed in the world as anyone in his time. In a strange twist of fate, Bhumibol’s older brother would ascend the throne in 1937, after their uncle King abdicated in controversy to preserve the monarchy.
The Prince Becomes King
Siam was crumbling, and the region was caught in the first global depression. The Second World War would quickly divide the nation into traditionalists and revolutionaries, in a rare example of true family preservation. King Rama VII, in 1935, abdicated his throne to his nephew: Bhumibol’s older brother, Ananda Mahidol. Thought to be worldly and educated, it was a bold move meant to preserve the royal line in the throws of political upheaval.
In an even stranger twist, Bhumibol’s King brother died of a gunshot wound in Bhumibol’s presence, In the thrown hall of Bangkok on June 9, 1946. Bhumibol would ascend the throne in the midst of more controversy. The Royal Family was still sorting out its terms for itself and its future. However, despite the controversy and uncertain times, King Bhumibol would inspire generations and preserve Thailand to a level no other Southeast Asian nation could compare. Maintaining economic growth, government stability, a robust tourist trade, and a ruling line that is not common in the region.
King Bhumibol Aduladej And Queen Sirikit
His legacy and image are forever for a king that came to power in very questionable circumstances. His portrait is almost as dominant as his ruling sons, and his monuments and spaces are far more prominent. Upon Bhumibol’s ascension to the throne of Thailand in 1946, An era of culture, modernization, and growth unseen or sustained in the region established itself in Thailand. The world came in, and Thailand received them with open arms.
The King married his lifelong Queen in 1950. After this, Thailand boasts a period of stability and growth uncommon in Asia for the time. With Japan in ruin, China embroiled in a bitter civil war, Vietnam caught in its revolution of independence, and most other parts of Asia either impoverished or caught in their post-colonial instabilities, It would be Thailand and it’s peninsular neighbor to the south Singapore that would shine through the coming decades of the new post-war world.
And so it was, four decades later, on the 60 birthdays of the King and Queen of Thailand, beautifully gilded stone and marble pagodas would be erected. At the time of their construction, the twin pagodas were to commemorate the oldest living and longest-reigning monarchs in the world.
Monarchies
Until my visits to Southeast Asia, I was unaware of the monarchal Institutions in Asia. Always focusing my knowledge on things as they relate to the Americas. Europe always dominates the mind when one talks of Monarchs. It should then come as no surprise how surprised I was at the depth and age of Asia’s Monarchs.
Of the eight oldest monarchs in the world, the top two are in Asia. The oldest Monarch proven through consistent record keeping is Japan. With February 11, 660 BC being their official date of Genesis, It’s incredible to think this is true. With formal records of Emperors dating all the way back to the fourth century and further records indicating a line far older, It’s hard to separate or disprove the mythical tales from state truths. So one must honor their claim as the oldest continuous Monarchy.
It’s number two on the list that really surprised me. Everyone knows Japan has been a historical juggernaut in the region for centuries, but number two has found a quiet place to call home. The kingdom of Cambodia, or as they say in the region, Campuchia.
Established in 68 AD and confirmed to historical accuracy, it is both ancient and mysterious. It was the only monarchy in the world to be founded by a Queen, Queen Soma, in that year. Its landlocked river culture, mainly in the mountainous regions of Southeast Asia, has kept this slumbering nation both inconspicuous and out of reach. It’s modern air travel and the world’s new desires to explore and learn that have opened this once-isolated nation to the world.
The Kingdom Of Thailand
Thailand doesn’t exist in an age as old as the oldest Monarchies in the world, but its legacy is no less impressive. Thailand’s officially recognized date of origin is 1238. With the establishment of the great Lanna Kingdom near Chiang Mai and centuries of warding off regional aggressors, Thailand’s royal lines preserved a lineage that few others in the world could compete.
Upon King Bhumibol’s death in 2016, the Queen of England, Elizabeth II, Became the longest current reigning monarch. It is one thing to read about history. It’s another to touch and breathe it. It is always with great gratitude that I experience these unique moments in life.
To gaze upon Ho Chi Minh, to experience rituals as old as the age, to trod on lands George Washington struggled through at valley forge, or read about the moments on monuments in the courthouses across America. To sit and pray upon the graves of national heroes all over the world. It’s an absolute honor and privilege to seek history and experience it everywhere I go.
Phra Maha Dhatu Naphamethinidon and Naphaphonphumisiri Pagodas
I know those are absolute tongue twisters. But I assure you this special place is just as beautiful and mysterious as the names imply. The site is in commemoration of the former King and Queen of Thailand. As I’ve spoken in previous paragraphs, this place was built to commemorate and eternalize the land’s great monarchs.
The names mean “by the strength of the land and the air” and “Being the strength of the air and the grace of the land,” respectively. The Kings “Chedi,” or Pagoda for other Asian nations or related to “temple” in English, Means By the strength of land and air. In contrast, the Queen’s is in reference to being and grace. The structures are modern, shiny, and very religious.
Buddha’s Relics
Housed in the two Chedis or Temples lie relics of the Buddha himself. Buddhism is everywhere in Thailand. In fact, over 93% of its population practices Buddhism. The only country in the world that exhibits a higher percentage is the neighboring kingdom of Cambodia, whose population is 96.9% Buddhist.
It permeates every level of life here in non-communist Southeast Asia. It really caught me by surprise how so entwined it is in life. In Vietnam, it’s simply tradition. Here in Thailand, it exists beyond life. The King and Queen can not exist outside of Buddhism. It is a part of them, and they are a part of it. I see Cathedrals in Vietnam. I see nothing Christian in Thailand.
Inside the Pagodas of the Queen and King lay the bone and hair purportedly of the great Buddha. But even our guide, who is a devout Buddhist, expresses doubts. He tells me many stories and first account experiences of the Buddha. Told him in a long oral tradition older than Christ himself. For now, it is the year 2562, and it is posted on everything here in the mountains of Thailand.
It was a realization I was waiting to find—a world, a time, a place that exists on a different plain. In the year 2562, hair and bone from an ancient deity, I was in a world beyond Western thought and experience. I was exactly, for the moment, where I wanted to be.
The Grounds
The property of the temples is beautifully manicured and impeccably maintained. Between the two Pagodas lies a massive stone courtyard with coffee and gift shops. The entire facility was more tourist enriched than I was prepared for. But we did have to park off the premises, and the classic truck taxi shuttled us to the courtyard. Most vehicles were kept out, which at least gives the property a bit of an open and uncongested feel.
Built, maintained, and protected by the Thai Royal Air Force, Their presence was not terribly subtle but unintrusive. Fully geared in digital jungle green and blue camo and often in facial camouflage coverings. The military personnel manned ticket stations and monitored most activities within the facility. They were almost always kind and non-threatening, but it was a bit strange coming from a world where teenagers often man ticket booths and kind park rangers offer information and direction.
The Pagodas
Flanking the courtyard are two massive stairways. One leading to the Kings Pagoda and the other to the Queens. As we offered our tickets to the military personal monitoring the base of the staircases, we turned toward the Kings and began our climb. Breathing wasn’t the easiest here, given the altitude. The air was thin and covered escalators were offered on both sides for the climb. The escalators only went up to the Pagodas, and everyone walked down the beautiful steps to descend.
The two Pagodas sat across from each other on an outcrop just down from the mountain’s summit. Once you reached the top of each platform housing the temples, the view was breathtaking. Wide open and seemingly endless, you could see all the way across the Mae Surin and into Myanmar.
The Kings Pagoda
The outer part of the Kings Pagoda is coated in dark granite and consists of two levels. Massive walkways surround the pagoda and, on both levels, offer stunning views of the countryside. Massive reliefs set on the outside edges of the walkways depict scenes of Buddha’s ascension through the many levels of heaven. The imagery is striking and beautiful. We walked the levels taking in the beautiful scenery and artwork.
We reached the entrance to the Pagoda, took off our shoes, and stepped in. The King’s Pagoda housed a sitting Buddha statue with a gilded covering hanging above. On the symmetrical walls that lined the Pagoda were carved images of places from Buddha’s life. Particularly his four holy places.
His birthplace, the Lumbibi. The place of Buddha’s first enlightenment Bodh Gaya. The place of his first teaching, Sarnath, and where he reached complete enlightenment or Parinirvana, Kusinara. Buddhist or not, one can’t help but feel the energy flowing through the temples and people here.
The Queens Pagoda
After some exploring on the King’s side, we decided to head to the Queens Pagoda. It was far more impressive than the KIngs. The Queens Pagoda was tucked closer to the mountain, so the views weren’t as sweeping or panoramic. But that was fine, as the quality of artwork and the surrounding gardens made up for this shortcoming in spades.
Covered in purple stone and beautifully gleaming in the tropical sun, the Queens Pagoda is brilliant. Shimmering glossy tiles illuminated by the sun tell ancient stories of Buddha’s life. Our guide points out a particular series that tells the tale of a mother’s loss.
A Short Story
A princess who gave up her life of luxury for simple living in the countryside with her beloved commoner. After two children and a few years of happiness, her husband died. With no one to help care for her and her children, she leaves her home for the palace to ask for forgiveness and reconciliation. On her way to the palace, they come across a flooded river. The princess leaves the youngest on the bank to wade across with the oldest over her head.
As she is halfway across the river, an eagle swoops down and snatches the child from her arms. As she cries out for her child in the clutches of the eagle’s talons, the young child on the bank mistakes her call to be for him. The young child steps into the raging river to be swept away forever. With nothing left and everything she loves lost, the woman goes mad and becomes a hermit in the forests of Asia. Eventually, Buddha discovers the woman, gives her a home in his school, and teaches her his ways of enlightenment.
A story I can only assume is meant to convey concepts of loss, suffering, and eventual redemption and, in some ways, resurrection. I often find it quite fascinating when I encounter stories and parallels in religious tales that span distance, time, and space. Concepts of forgiveness, suffering, redemption, love, and compassion, I am very happy to report, are universal.
The Interior
The interior of the Pagoda is breathtaking. Beautiful frescos surround the circular ceiling high above the praying Buddha. With more bone in the form of gems beset in crystal displays at each Buddha’s side. An incredibly powerful and beautiful sight. I walked around the shimmering interior while Diem and our guide paid homage to the ancient entity. The facility had a cleanliness and shine that I’d not seen much in other religious sights in the region. A truly memorable experience indeed.
The art on the ceiling depicts the Buddha’s and his mother’s life—beautifully crafted imagery and artwork. The Pagodas seem more like art exhibits than religious spaces. But the throngs of kneeling and praying believers and the abundance of floral offerings remind me to be courteous and respectful. And So to the whisper of prayer and chants, I took in the life and times of the Buddha.
The Gardens
A beautiful garden is outside the Queens Pagoda and tucked into the side of the mountain, with pathways, bridges, and little ponds that fill the spaces between the beautiful flowers and native plant species. The King commissioned the gardens here and elsewhere on the mountain to symbolize change for the locals. Prior to the King’s death, he set on a personal mission to eradicate poppy production from the remote hillsides and jungle enclaves deep in the Thai wilderness.
Offering farmers programs to switch their crops from poppy to other edible and commercially viable plants. Often offering subsidies and even monetary incentive programs to squash out what he saw as a global epidemic. The mountain and state parks are full of gardens and spaces dedicated to the teaching and sustainability of farmers in the region. From the Kings of old to the modern era, my time in Doi Inthanon has left me with a sense of authenticity in at least this line of King’s love and concern for their people.
After a wonderful few days exploring the mountains and Jungles of Northern Thailand, it was time to head back to Chiang Mai. One last walk through the gardens in the clouds, and we headed back to the shuttle. It would be a rather long and slow ride back down the mountain. Back through the many layers out of the cool air and back to the jungle humidity.
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