Chapter 21: Into the Heart of the Redwoods
Crescent City, California, to Potter Valley, California
The dawn again came early, and we hurried to the typical lackluster motel breakfast. We have fallen into this understood pattern, which has come from three weeks on the road. Pushing, on average, 300 miles a day. It is a mixture of KOA cabins, Airbnbs, and, for those short stops, the infamous motel. The Airbnbs have all been excellent. Our first Airbnb was in the shadow of the Great Sand Dunes of Colorado. We had one that was in the center of Monument Valley, the most insane kitchen view. The covered wagon we slept in after the horseback ride through the Grand Tetons was Spectacular. Followed by the Airbnb in Washington after an insane jaunt across that state. And last night with the Airbnb in the vineyard in Potter Valley.
Airbnb has been an instrumental component. They often offer clothes washing facilities, stocked kitchens, and space to spread out and for everyone to get some privacy. Though I initially thought these scattered Airbnbs throughout the itinerary would be enough to keep up with our laundry needs, I realized quickly that I had miscalculated. Five people taking showers daily, and some wearing more than one set daily created copious amounts of dirty laundry. So, the laundry services at KOAs and motels began being used regularly. It has become a conscious part of planning as we move through the days. But I digress.
We departed Crescent City quickly, as we had gotten road-hardened to evacuating motels as promptly as possible. It is our least favorite type of nightly sleeping spot. Uncomfortable beds, sketchy vicinities, and the occasional foul odor. So, with the sun beginning to rise, we loaded up and pushed south on Highway 101. A few miles out, we pulled off to an overlook. We had climbed some feet in elevation. The rocky shore pounded with waves far below. In the distance, the crescent-shaped bay that lends the city’s name curved northward, Crescent City hugging its farthest shore.
As we continued down the 101, the highway meandered through a tunnel of towering trees, their green canopies filtering the morning light into delicate patterns on the asphalt. The dense forest on either side was vibrant with life, a symphony of birdsong accompanying us as we drove deeper into the redwoods. The Highway occasionally curved back to the coast, giving fleeting glimpses of sweeping sea views. The day was warm, the kind of way when the sun first hits a cool coastal pocket in the coming dawn. It was a beautiful morning ride.
Our first stop was at the entrance sign for Redwood National and State Parks, just a few miles south of Crescent City. The sign stood proudly against the backdrop of ancient trees, marking the beginning of our adventure into one of nature’s grandest cathedrals. We gathered for a family photo, the kids, and lets be honest here, me, bubbling with excitement and the towering redwoods hinting at the wonders ahead. This brief pause set the stage for the awe-inspiring journey as we prepared to immerse ourselves in the serene majesty of the mighty redwoods.
Redwood National and State Parks, established in 1968, are a testament to conservationists’ efforts to protect these majestic forests from the rampant logging of the early 20th century. The park encompasses over 138,000 acres of diverse ecosystems, including the world’s tallest trees. The mighty coastal redwoods, or Sequoiadendron giganteum. These trees, some of which are over 2,000 years old and can reach heights of more than 370 feet, have become symbols of the natural grandeur of resilience and the icon of northern California. Some of these trees were alive in the days of the Roman Emperors. That is a wild thought. Establishing the park was crucial in preserving these ancient giants and the rich biodiversity that thrives within their shadow.
The history of Redwood National and State Parks is deeply intertwined with the indigenous peoples who have inhabited the region for thousands of years. Tribes such as the Yurok, Tolowa, and Chilula have long regarded the redwoods as sacred, living entities and have developed a profound connection with the forest. Their traditional practices and ecological knowledge have helped maintain the balance and health of these ecosystems. Today, the parks collaborate with these tribes to honor their cultural heritage and protect their ancestral lands.
Over the decades, Redwood National and State Parks have become a sanctuary for wildlife and visitors seeking the tranquility and majesty of these ancient forests. The parks are home to diverse flora and fauna, including endangered species like the northern spotted owl and the marbled murrelet. In addition to their natural beauty, the parks offer a glimpse into the past, with remnants of historic logging operations and early conservation efforts evident throughout the region. The combined efforts of federal and state agencies and passionate conservationists have ensured that the redwoods and their surrounding ecosystems will continue to inspire and awe future generations.
Continuing our drive, we soon reached the Wilson Beach Overlook, a breathtaking vantage point offering an impressive Pacific Ocean view. The coastline stretched before us, rugged cliffs meeting the vast expanse of blue water. We stepped out of the car to take in the view, the salty breeze carrying the sound of crashing waves up to our perch. The overlook provided a perfect spot for another family photo, capturing the joy and awe we felt in this beautiful moment. The ocean, dotted with rocky outcrops, shimmered under the clear sky.
After soaking in the beauty of the Overlook, we continued our journey down Highway 101. A few miles further, we pulled over at another scenic spot to capture a different view of the coastline. This vista offered a serene tableau of the Pacific Ocean, with craggy rocks jutting out of the water and wildflowers carpeting the foreground. The calm and endless sea seemed to merge seamlessly with the sky, creating a sense of infinite peace.
A familiar scent caught my attention as I breathed in the fresh coastal air. An unmistakable aroma took me back to my younger days working in fine dining kitchens. I turned to see a fence line brimming with wild fennel, its feathery fronds and yellow blossoms swaying gently in the breeze. The smell was intoxicating, a sweet and slightly licorice-like fragrance that brought a rush of memories.
Fennel, a plant known for its culinary and medicinal uses, has a long history. Its bulb, stalks, and seeds are all edible and used in various dishes worldwide. In the kitchens where I once worked, fennel was a prized ingredient, its unique flavor elevating everything from salads to roasted meats. The seeds, in particular, were often used to infuse oils and sauces, adding a distinctive anise-like note that could transform a dish into something special.
Standing by the roadside, surrounded by the familiar scent of fennel, I was transported back to those bustling kitchens. I remembered the clatter of pots and pans, the heat of the stoves, and the meticulous preparation of meals. This unexpected connection to my past added a layer of personal nostalgia to the day’s adventure. I was taken aback by the almost instant transportation to another time and place the fennel growing by the roadside had caused. It was a surreal reminder of the many paths that had led me to this road. The scent of fennel, intertwined with the coastal breeze, created a brief yet profound moment.
After our scenic stop to admire the fennel along the roadside, we continued south and soon found ourselves at Wilson Beach. Diem and I decided to stroll along the shore while the girls sat in the van, soaking in the morning calm. The beach stretched invitingly before us with its dark sand and rugged coastline.
We strolled along, taking in the tranquil beauty of the beach. The waves crashing gently against the shore provided a soothing soundtrack to our leisurely pace. The cool ocean breeze was refreshing, carrying the salty tang of the sea and the occasional cry of a distant seagull. We found a large driftwood log and sat for a while, gazing out at the horizon where the sky met the ocean in a seamless expanse of blue.
As we sat together, the vastness of the ocean and the beauty of the rugged rocks rising from the water filled me with a sense of peace and reflection. The morning sunlight danced on the waves, creating a sparkling display that was both mesmerizing and calming. It was a beautiful moment.
Continuing our journey along Highway 101, we soon arrived at Trees of Mystery, a renowned roadside attraction in Klamath, California. The massive statues of Paul Bunyan and his blue ox, Babe, greeted us, towering over the entrance. Paul Bunyan stood an impressive 49 feet tall, with his axe spanning 27 feet, while Babe looked equally imposing beside him. These iconic figures set the whimsical tone of the place, blending folklore with the natural beauty of the redwoods.
Excited to explore, we took some time to pose with the statues. The girls eagerly gathered around the towering figures, their smiles and laughter capturing the moment’s magic. The giant bear statue also drew their attention, providing another fun photo opportunity. The playful atmosphere and the larger-than-life characters brought a sense of adventure and joy, making me feel like a kid again among these legendary giants.
After our impromptu photo session, we made our way to purchase tickets for the Trees of Mystery. The anticipation built as we prepared to enter the enchanted forest, where the mystery and majesty of the redwoods awaited us. The playful start to our visit set a delightful tone for the adventure ahead, perfectly blending folklore, family fun, and the awe-inspiring beauty of nature.
Having purchased our tickets, we walked through the entrance and into the Trees of Mystery, following the winding trails through a forest of ancient redwoods. The towering trees created a canopy high above, their immense trunks standing as silent sentinels of time. Diem and the girls were captivated by the lush greenery and the sense of wonder that filled the air. At one point, we paused by a serene pond, the foliage reflections creating a tranquil, almost magical scene.
As we continued along the path, we encountered a statue of Bigfoot, adding a touch of whimsy to the park. Diem couldn’t resist posing with the legendary creature, her laughter echoing through the trees. The girls, meanwhile, found delight in every twist and turn. Their energy and curiosity brought a lively spirit to the ancient forest, causing us to keep pace or be left behind. Each new sight and statue became a backdrop for their playful poses and imaginative stories.
The forest trail wound beneath the towering redwoods, their branches draped in moss and ferns. The sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled light on the forest floor. At one point, Maggie struck a dramatic pose, looking up in awe at the giants above. The sheer scale of the trees was humbling, a statement of the incredible natural history we were walking through. This moment, surrounded by the timeless beauty of the redwoods, felt like stepping into another world, a sanctuary of nature’s grandeur.
We stopped at the base of the Trinity Tree, a staggering 297 feet tall, its bark textured with centuries of growth. As Diem posed beside it, her arm outstretched in admiration, the sheer scale of these ancient giants was revealed. The Trinity Tree’s impressive height was humbling, an impressive example of nature’s enduring power and resilience.
Further along, we began our ascent into the canopy, climbing a wooden staircase that wound through the trees. With each step, the world below became more distant, replaced by the whispering leaves and the rustling of small creatures in the underbrush. Here, I fell back into a more defensive stature at the back of our group. Heights have never been my thing, and dangling from a couple hundred feet above a patchwork of concrete switchbacks climbing the mountain underneath, nothing looked like it was worth breaking a nasty fall. Queue up, knees a little shaky.
Diem led the way, her figure dwarfed by the immense trunks surrounding us. Ever adding to the dizzying view in every direction. The higher we climbed, the more we felt like explorers in a hidden world that few get to experience from such a vantage point. I figured I would be the whining, “Have we checked this bridge for durability?”, kind of comic relief. As I did here, I tugged on a few support ropes and gave the wood a good check with my foot outstretched before placing any weight on any structure around me.
As we stepped onto the suspended walkway, we were transported into a scene straight out of a fantasy. The narrow bridge swayed gently, satisfactorily secured with ropes, and well-built supports fastened directly to the mighty redwoods. Platforms connected by these bridges created a network among the treetops, reminiscent of the Ewok villages from “Star Wars.” From this height, we could truly appreciate the dense, thriving ecosystem these trees supported and the scale of how far down it was to the hard, surely death-causing ground below.
The air was cooler, fresher, and filled with the scents of pine and earth. The large structure spanned many trees across the park. It was an impressive attraction, a fantastic walk through the canopy suspended high above the forest floor. Each step further into the canopy revealed new perspectives and a deeper connection with the forest’s ancient spirit. Though my shaky knees never overcame the dizzying heights.
After descending back to ground level, we gathered at the base of a towering redwood and took a moment to capture the essence of our adventure with a selfie. The towering trees framed our faces, their immense height starkly contrasting our small figures. The sunlight filtered through the leaves, casting a dappled light on our group as if the ancient trees were watching over us. It was a fantastic moment.
Continuing down the path, we stopped at one of the giants, an awe-inspiring redwood that stretched toward the sky with an almost otherworldly grandeur. The tree seemed to touch the heavens, its bark rugged and timeworn. As we stood beneath it, the sense of history and time was palpable, grounding us in the moment and connecting us to the ancient past.
We eventually came to the Sky Trail Shuttle, an innovative cable car system designed to transport visitors through the canopy of the redwood forest to the mountaintop. The bright green gondolas, contrasting with the earthy tones of the forest, promised an exciting ride. As we prepared to board, I read a sign explaining that each shuttle can carry up to six passengers and has a weight limit of 1,058 pounds. The design allows continuous movement, providing a seamless and efficient way to explore the treetops without disturbing the natural environment.
These cable cars offered a unique vantage point, allowing one to glide smoothly through the air while enjoying panoramic views of the majestic redwoods. The system, designed for safety and enjoyment, at least that’s what the pamphlet said, was a marvel of modern Swiss engineering. As we ascended, the forest below transformed into a sea of green, with the tops of the trees appearing like waves in an ocean of foliage.
The Sky Trail Shuttle gently lifted us above the forest floor, gliding smoothly through the canopy. It was an enjoyable ride, and from this aerial perspective, the vastness of the redwood forest became even more apparent. The trees stretched out in all directions, a sea of green that seemed to go on forever. As we ascended, the tops of the redwoods swayed slightly in the breeze, their towering forms providing a breathtaking view of nature’s grandeur. The air was crisp and cool, filled with the earthy scent of pine and the invigorating freshness of the forest.
We reached the top of the cable car ride, stepping onto a wooden platform that offered a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. The platform was a small, elevated sanctuary nestled among the treetops, allowing us to fully appreciate the scale and beauty of the redwoods from this unique vantage point. The sight was awe-inspiring, a reminder of the majesty and timelessness of these ancient giants. I could have peered out over the forest to the ocean for hours.
A weathered sign welcomed us to “Ted’s Ridge,” adding a personal touch to this scenic spot. The rustic charm of the sign, with its simple lettering and rough edges, gave it a standard park feel built into the natural surroundings. It was a quiet, unassuming marker of our journey to reach the top of the mountain.
We gathered for another family photo, the dense forest and distant ocean creating a perfect backdrop. The girls smiled brightly, their faces reflecting the joy and wonder of the adventure. The sunlight filtered through the trees, casting a soft, golden glow on everything around us. It was a moment of pure happiness. One hell of an accomplishment among many on this insane undertaking we have taken up. Three-quarters of the way into our grand adventure, here we stand amidst the beauty of the redwoods.
After taking in the stunning views from Ted’s Ridge, we began our descent back to the forest floor. The return trip on the cable car offered a different perspective, allowing us to see the intricate details of the forest below. As we glided down, we could spot birds flitting among the branches and catch glimpses of wildlife moving through the underbrush.
We descended from the Sky Trail Shuttle and again found ourselves enveloped by the majestic redwoods. The sheer size of the ancient trees was humbling, their immense trunks rising toward the sky like natural skyscrapers. The forest floor was a tapestry of ferns and moss, each step cushioned by the soft, rich earth as we followed the winding path, eager to explore more of the mysterious woods.
The towering redwoods, some charred and hollowed by past fires, stood resilient, their bark weathered but strong. These ancient sentinels bore the scars of time yet continued to thrive. Light continued to filter through the canopy, casting intricate shadows and highlighting the vibrant green foliage surrounding us.
Continuing along the trail, we passed a large fallen tree, its roots exposed and entwined with ferns and small plants. This natural bridge offered a perfect opportunity for the girls to explore and marvel at the intricate root systems that supported these giants. The play of light and shadow on the fallen trunk created a captivating scene, adding to the mystical atmosphere of the forest. It was all so incredibly enchanting.
As we ventured deeper, the path led us to a tranquil grove where the redwoods stood in close formation, their trunks forming natural pillars that reached upwards. Diem and the girls walked ahead, their figures small against the backdrop of these towering trees. The moment’s serenity was palpable, each step taking us further into the forest’s heart.
Looking up, the redwoods appeared to converge high above, their branches intertwining to form a living canopy. This perspective made me feel even more connected to the ancient forest as if we were a part of its endless cycle of growth and renewal. The air was filled with the earthy scent of the woods, a mixture of pine and damp soil that was both invigorating and calming. There was something spiritual and ancient that seemed to radiate all around us. We paused frequently, captivated by the natural beauty that spread out in every direction.
As we neared the end of the Trees of Mystery trail, we were greeted by intricate wooden carvings depicting scenes from Paul Bunyan’s life and adventures. Rich in detail and craftsmanship, these carvings brought the legendary lumberjack’s tales to life. The images of Ma and Pa and Paul’s cradle, scenes of Paul growing into a man, and the images of his famous blue ox. It all added a touch of whimsy, merging folklore with the natural splendor of the redwoods.
Our path led us to an unexpected yet amusing sight—a giant wooden sculpture of a mosquito, aptly named “Mosquito Rex Redwoodyus.” Standing tall among the ferns, this humorous creation added a playful element to our walk, eliciting giggles from the girls. The blend of natural beauty and quirky art installations made our exploration of the Trees of Mystery both enchanting and entertaining, providing delight as we walked the trail.
At the trail’s end, we found a large wooden slab inscribed “I LOVE YOU.” This heartfelt message, carved into the aged wood, felt like a fitting conclusion to our magical adventure. Diem and the girls posed playfully beside the carving, their smiles radiating the joy and love we had shared throughout the day. Before heading out, we quickly stopped at the gift shop, where I found an entire collection of my shirt, a classic red and black plaid design, embracing the lumberjack spirit of Paul Bunyan.
With the giants successfully explored, we jumped back on Highway 101 and continued our journey southward, leaving the towering redwoods behind. The road curved gracefully through the landscape, hugging the contours of the hills and valleys. A few more ocean views before we left the coast behind.
The scenery shifted subtly as we drove, with the dense forest giving way to more open vistas. Rolling hills blanketed in golden grasses and dotted with clusters of trees stretched out on either side of the highway. The blue sky above starkly contrasted with the verdant hues below, creating a picturesque tableau inviting contemplation and reflection. I can’t believe it’s been 21 days. How crazy am I? 28 days, three women, a little girl, and a van. It’s a mad proposition. Yet, here we are. So much accomplished.
As we cruised on, the sun climbed higher, casting its warm light over the landscape. Each bend in the road revealed new perspectives, from steep, rocky inclines to gentle, sloping meadows. Occasionally, we would spot a lone farmhouse or a grazing herd of cattle, signs of rural life thriving alongside the landscape’s natural beauty. The drive was both soothing and invigorating, the rhythmic hum of the tires on the asphalt providing a calming backdrop to the unfolding panorama. And on we marched.
Approaching the outskirts of Redwood Valley, the landscape began to change once more. The hills grew steeper, and the road wound through increasingly rugged terrain. Tall trees framed our path, their branches forming a green tunnel that filtered the sunlight into dappled patterns on the road. The beauty of the natural world was ever-present, a constant companion as we drove along. I could sense the eagerness to see what new wonders awaited us in this stunning part of Northern California.
We turned off Highway 101 at Lake Mendocino, heading towards Potter Valley. The road became narrower and winding, canopied by lush green branches that cast scattered shadows on our path. The scenery shifted from the dense forests of the redwoods to the open, sunlit expanses of the valleys. It was a peaceful drive, the air becoming warmer and carrying the faint scent of ripening grapes.
As we entered the heart of California’s renowned wine country, the change in atmosphere was palpable. Even the local gas stations reflected the region’s deep-rooted wine culture, with shelves lined from floor to ceiling with countless varieties of bottles. Seeing so many wines in an everyday setting highlighted how integral wine was to the local identity and economy.
The landscape of Potter Valley unfolded before us, a picturesque mosaic of vineyards stretching as far as the eye could see. Neatly ordered rows of grapevines stood perfectly symmetrical, their green leaves glistening under the afternoon sun. It was the gardens of the gods, the land of Dionysios. The rolling hills in the background added depth to the scene, their gentle slopes providing the ideal terrain for viticulture. It was easy to see why this region was celebrated for its wine; the beauty of the vineyards was matched only by the quality of the grapes they produced.
We arrived at our Airbnb in Potter Valley, so you know this one will be good. A charming retreat nestled amidst rolling hills and lush orchards. The kids wasted no time exploring the open space, their laughter echoing through the serene landscape. Our van, parked in the driveway, became our base of operations as we unpacked and settled in. The afternoon sun bathed everything in a warm, golden light, adding a touch of magic to our surroundings. It was the perfect spot to unwind after a day of travel, with the mountains providing a stunning backdrop to our temporary home.
Taking a stroll around the property, we were greeted by rows of fruit trees laden with ripening apples and pears. The air was fragrant with the sweet scent of the orchards, a delightful contrast to the coastal breezes we’d left behind. The quiet road leading to the farmhouse was lined with lush orchards and Vineyards, and the distant hum of farm equipment hinted at the valley’s agricultural activities.
In the distance, we spotted a small vegetable garden tended by a local farmer. Rows of leafy greens and blossoming plants hinted at the quality of fertile soil. Nearby, vibrant red roses climbed a trellis, adding color to the verdant landscape. The scene was idyllic, a testament to the simple pleasures of country living. As we returned to the house, the setting sun cast long shadows across the vineyard. It was a scene of timeless beauty and quiet allure in the Potter Valley. And so it was, day after day. We would find ourselves staring into something that we couldn’t look at long enough, yet every moment was fleeting. It was the nature of our quest: 28 days and 300 miles every day. And though it’s sad in some ways, there are so many places we would have loved to stay longer, yet another place is always waiting to be seen tomorrow.
The property had a nice array of cooking equipment and a few bottles of complimentary wine, and I started a nice dinner: Beef Bun, grilled short ribs, roasted half duck, buttered crab, salad, roasted veggies—all that comes with a gourmet meal among the vineyards. The living room had a vast collection of DVDs, and after dinner, we settled in for a family movie night. The family disaster vacation movie RV, starring Robin Williams, seemed appropriate to us now. Sleep would come quickly as the night faded. It had been another incredible day beneath an endless sky.
To explore some of the Parks and Monuments we’ve showcased and more, click here for the National Park Services.
