Montesano, Washington to Sutherlin, Oregon.
Father’s Day dawned with bustling energy. We packed up more relaxed than in the previous day, as there wasn’t an actual destination on today’s agenda—only a few points of interest on the map. We snacked on a simple breakfast before setting sail from Montesano. The morning was misty and dark, a textbook feel for the Pacific Northwest. Looking for an early lunch spot proved difficult, as families flocked to celebrate their Fathers, filling up restaurants and diners.
With popular places wait for a table in the hours, we sought solace in a hidden gem outside Centralia. Armed only with a few reviews in the local paper, we found our way to a small town in the southwest corner of the state. Here, we pulled into a small, non-descript parking lot with only a few spaces and piled into the small but incredibly charming throwback from a more innocent era.
Bill and Bea’s is a small mom-and-pop burger joint packed with nostalgia and the promise of hearty comfort food. In operation for over 60 years, Bill and Bea’s interior was a delightful ode to simpler times. Classic signs adorned the walls, and a vintage clock added a touch of retro flair. We settled into our seats, grateful for the cozy, unpretentious setting away from the Father’s Day frenzy.
Our anticipation was rewarded with burgers that were nothing short of spectacular. Burgers are not a common fixture on my daily diet these days, and the chance to get a good one was delightful. Juicy patties nestled between soft buns, accompanied by fresh, unpretentious lettuce, tomatoes, and pickles, were complemented by a side of perfectly crispy fries.
Bill and Bea’s, with its warm hospitality and delicious offerings, provided the perfect setting for a hassle-free Father’s Day lunch. As we finished our meal, we struck up a conversation with the workers about the restaurant’s history and really enjoyed the friendly atmosphere. After scarfing down our burgers and milkshakes, we bid farewell to the friendly family staff and pushed south.
Continuing to Portland, we picked up Washington 14 and headed east briefly. A trajectory that took us along the mighty Columbia River as it forcefully flowed toward the Pacific. The sky again became filled with gloomy slate and ash-colored clouds.
As we continued down Washington 14, we arrived at Cape Horn, a stunning viewpoint overlooking the Columbia River Gorge. This picturesque spot, with its sweeping views of the river framed by rugged cliffs and dense forest, was a highlight of our day. The weather added a dramatic touch to the scene, with clouds hanging low and a gentle mist enveloping the landscape. Our umbrellas were a necessary companion as we explored, adding a whimsical element to our selfie.
Cape Horn was not only a breathtaking natural wonder but also held a special significance in pop culture. Margaret had been a bit excited at the prospect of exploring the forest where Bella piggy-backed on Edward as he jumped from tree to tree in the first installment of the now-iconic Twilight series. Her excitement was contagious as she recounted details from the film, connecting the cinematic magic to the real-life beauty surrounding us. It was a delightful blend of the natural world and kitschy pop culture.
The winding roads leading up to Cape Horn were lined with lush greenery, and the unfortunate graffiti on the Cape Horn sign added a touch of urban art to the wilderness. Despite the overcast skies, the view was beautiful, with the Columbia River flowing serenely through the gorge. We frequently paused to soak in the scenery and capture photos before pushing on to the Cape Horn Trailhead.
The lush greenery enveloped us in every direction as we stepped onto the Cape Horn forest trail. Maggie and Lisa led the way, their silhouettes framed by the dense foliage, sharing an umbrella that seemed too small to cover their excitement. The rain had left everything glistening, adding a touch of magic to the landscape. The damp, lush foliage, thin dirt trail, and moss-covered trees gave the scene an enchanting feel. The kids’ laughter echoed softly, a gentle reminder of the simple joys that such moments bring.
Jennie, ever the explorer, found fascination in the smallest details. Her pink sweatshirt bright against the verdant backdrop, she bent over to examine a cluster of flowers, her fingers carefully touching the delicate petals. There’s something incredibly grounding about watching a child discover the world around them, each new sight and texture a source of wonder. With the rain softly pattering on the leaves above, the forest seemed to breathe with life. Maggie, her long black hair still damp from the drizzle, posed playfully along the path, her face lit with a grin that spoke of youthful exuberance. The Cape Horn trail, with its mix of dense underbrush and towering evergreens, provided a perfect canvas for the afternoon, each step weaving us deeper into the fabric of this enchanting woodland.
Jennie, clutching her blue umbrella, was a vision of determination. The oversized accessory bobbed along as she navigated the muddy trail with surprising ease. Her enthusiasm was infectious, and as she trudged forward, we couldn’t help but marvel at her spirit. The Cape Horn trail, with its undulating path and verdant surroundings, offered a peaceful respite from the hustle of our road trip. Here, amidst the damp earth and fresh foliage, we found a slice of tranquility, a reminder of the natural beauty of the natural world. But it was not to last as the sound of the coming storms began to fill the air. Claps of thunder in the distance grew closer with every crack. Under the sound of increasing rain, we hurriedly returned to our mobile sanctuary.
Leaving the tranquil embrace of the forest trail, we found ourselves on the road once more, headed toward Oregon. The landscape shifted dramatically as we drove alongside the Columbia River, its waters a deep, somber gray under the overcast sky. The dense forests that lined the riverbank seemed endless, their verdant hues muted by the misty air. The Columbia River Gorge’s sheer cliffs and rugged terrain loomed in the distance, shrouded in a gentle veil of rain.
The sky finally opened as we reached the Bridge of the Gods. The Bridge of the Gods, spanning the Columbia River at the Washington-Oregon border, holds a history as captivating as its name. Constructed in 1926, the bridge’s name originates from a Native American legend. According to the tale, a colossal natural stone bridge once existed here, created by the gods to allow passage between the two lands. This legendary bridge collapsed, reshaping the river and the region’s geography.
The modern Bridge of the Gods began as a modest structure built by the Wauna Toll Bridge Company. Initially, it was a simple toll bridge, facilitating local travel and commerce. In 1940, the Port of Cascade Locks acquired and raised the bridge to accommodate rising water levels due to the construction of the Bonneville Dam. Over the decades, the bridge has evolved, undergoing numerous renovations and expansions, reflecting the growing importance of regional connectivity. Today, it stands as a symbol of historical transformation and enduring human ingenuity.
The bridge’s name, steeped in Native American legend, added a mystical element to our journey. The Klickitat people believed that a great natural bridge once spanned the river, connecting the lands of the gods, and driving over its modern counterpart felt like a crossing into another realm. On the far side, the highway stretched before us, leading into the bustling metropolis of Portland.
We reached a hotspot of waterfalls on the Oregon side of the river, but the storms we heard in the distance had reached us now, making any venture from the van impossible. So we pushed on to Portland. At Portland, we reached the mouth of the Columbia River and fulfilled a small achievement of my own. By reaching the Mouth of the Columbia, we completed most of the journey Lewis and Clark took on the now-immortalized journey of the Corps of Discovery.
The Corps of Discovery’s Arrival at the Mouth of the Columbia River
In the autumn of 1805, the Corps of Discovery, led by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark, reached a pivotal milestone in their epic journey: the mouth of the Columbia River. After more than a year of arduous travel through uncharted territories, battling harsh conditions, and forging alliances with Native American tribes, the sight of the Pacific Ocean was a triumphant moment for the expedition. With its powerful currents and vast estuary, the Columbia symbolized the fulfillment of Thomas Jefferson’s grand vision of a transcontinental passage. The explorers, having survived the trials of the Rocky Mountains and the treacherous Snake River, now stood at the edge of the western frontier, their mission nearly complete.
As they made their way down the Columbia, the Corps encountered the Chinook and Clatsop tribes, who were integral to their survival and success in this new environment. The Native Americans shared their knowledge of the land, provided essential supplies, and traded goods, fostering a relationship that was critical to the Corps’ ability to overwinter in the area. The explorers marveled at the region’s rich resources—the abundant salmon, towering forests, and diverse wildlife—which contrasted sharply with the more desolate stretches of their journey. These interactions underscored the cultural exchanges that were a hallmark of the expedition, highlighting the importance of diplomacy and mutual respect.
By November, the expedition established Fort Clatsop, named after the local Clatsop tribe, near present-day Astoria, Oregon. The construction of the fort was a race against the encroaching winter, and the men worked tirelessly to erect a sturdy shelter to weather the harsh, wet conditions of the Pacific Northwest. The fort became their home for the next few months, a place where they could rest, recuperate, and prepare for the return journey. The winter of 1805-1806 was spent in relative seclusion, with the Corps focusing on hunting, gathering food, making salt from seawater, and documenting their findings. Despite the relentless rain and cold, the fort provided a sanctuary where the team could regroup and reflect on their monumental achievements.
The journals of Lewis and Clark during this period are filled with detailed observations of the landscape, flora, fauna, and the daily lives of the local tribes. These records not only provided invaluable scientific data but also captured the sense of wonder and discovery that defined their expedition. As the winter wore on, the Corps of Discovery’s resolve remained steadfast, fueled by the knowledge that they had succeeded in reaching the Pacific Ocean. The fort’s humble walls held the stories of perseverance, camaraderie, and the unyielding spirit of exploration. When the snow finally began to melt, and the first signs of spring appeared, the expedition prepared to embark on their return journey, forever changed by their experiences at the mouth of the Columbia River.
Now, some 218 years after that fabled journey, we too, have reached the mouth of the Columbia after setting on our own adventure of Discovery from St. Louis. Only our Journey took 19 days. It was a victory for me, though I knew the rest of the crew may not fully appreciate the task we had accomplished. I couldn’t help but feel that our journey had now reached its apex.
Leaving behind the urban buzz of Portland, we set out for the Sutherlin/Umpqua Valley KOA Holiday. The journey southward revealed yet another facet of the Pacific Northwest’s diverse landscape. As the cityscape faded in our rearview mirror, the scenery transformed dramatically. The highways stretched out before us, flanked by rolling hills and expansive fields that seemed to stretch endlessly towards the horizon. The blue sky, dotted with billowing clouds, created a picturesque backdrop that made the drive feel almost cinematic.
The lush greenery gave way to more open, pastoral vistas. Golden fields, ready for harvest, shimmered under the afternoon sun, contrasting with the dark green patches of forested hills. The Umpqua Valley, renowned for its fertile land and vineyards, greeted us with a sense of calm and spaciousness. Hay bales dotted the landscape, and the occasional farmhouse added a quaint charm to the otherwise vast expanses. It felt as though we had entered a serene, rural painting, far removed from the hustle and bustle of Portland.
Our adventure took an unexpected yet delightful turn when we arrived at the Sutherlin/Umpqua Valley KOA Holiday and found that our reserved cabin was unavailable. Instead, we were offered a spacious apartment above the office, which turned out to be a fantastic surprise. The apartment was whimsically themed around the Jurassic Park franchise, instantly captivating the kids and sparking their imaginations. We were greeted by a kitchen with modern amenities when we stepped inside. The first to stay in this newly built apartment, the décor transported us to a prehistoric era with dinosaur motifs adorning the walls and shelves.
The living space was a blend of comfort and curiosity, with framed fern prints and a dinosaur skeleton model perched atop a bookshelf. The ambiance was both cozy and intriguing, perfect for a family of explorers. A striking piece in the apartment was an amber paperweight with an insect trapped inside, reminiscent of the iconic scene from the movie. This little touch of authenticity delighted the girls, who eagerly examined it, their imaginations running wild with stories of ancient creatures and scientific discoveries.
Our stay at the Sutherlin/Umpqua Valley KOA Holiday was marked by one particularly memorable evening: dinner and a movie at the KOA’s outdoor theater. As the sun dipped below the horizon, we gathered around a cozy fire pit bundled in blankets to ward off the evening chill. The sky darkened, revealing a tapestry of stars above, while the flickering flames provided a warm, comforting glow. The girls, wrapped in their favorite blankets, watched with wide-eyed anticipation as the makeshift screen came to life with the vibrant colors of a family movie.
There was something uniquely magical about watching a movie under the open sky. The night air was filled with the crackling of the fire and the soft murmurs of fellow campers. The scent of burning wood mingled with the aroma of our dinner—bowls of steaming ramen, a perfect, hearty meal for a cool evening. We ate with chopsticks, savoring each bite as the story unfolded on the screen. The combination of the deliciously warm food, the cool breeze, and the shared experience of watching a movie together made for an unforgettable night.
Jennie, Maggie, and Lisa were entranced by the animated characters on the screen, their faces illuminated by the flickering light of the fire. It happened to be an old favorite of the family, Maggie’s favorite movie as a child in particular. Diem and I exchanged smiles, enjoying the simple pleasure of being together as a family in such a unique setting. The outdoor theater, with its rustic charm, provided a sense of community and nostalgia, reminding us of drive-in theaters from days past. It was a perfect way to end the day, surrounded by the natural beauty of the Umpqua Valley and the warmth of family.
As the movie came to an end and we made our way back to our Jurassic Park-themed apartment, the girls chattered excitedly about their favorite scenes. Their happiness was contagious, filling the night with laughter and joy. This evening, spent beneath an endless sky of stars, was a testament to the unexpected delights of our road trip—a reminder that sometimes, the most memorable experiences are those that happen when you least expect them.
To explore some of the Parks and Monuments we’ve explored and more, click here for the National Park Services.
