Chapter 12 – A Birthday to Remember
Green River, Wyoming, to Heart Six Ranch, Moran, Wyoming
I awoke with an electricity that was hard to contain. We were preparing to enter the wildest lands in the lower 48, and Lisa had developed a habit of talking about her birthday frequently. Her excitement masked a hesitation about what a birthday might look like on the road. We had planned a party when we returned so she could experience a typical 11th birthday with her friends back home. This assurance of what would come three weeks from now made hiding the true nature of what was coming on this birthday in the wilderness easier.
The Super 8 had disappointed, with its property edge unsecured and adjacent to terrible things. I would have never expected a slum in a small Wyoming town, but there you have it. And it has a Super 8. We eagerly, and with as much haste as a full dining room and one waffle iron could manage, snatched up bananas and cereals and hit the road with all speed.
Yesterday we slid into Green River as the sun was setting, and today, Wyoming was instantly beautiful. We turned north onto US-191 at Rock Springs and followed the two-lane highway into the wilderness. The drive was spectacular as the rolling hills slowly gave way to the famous snow-capped peaks of the Grand Tetons.
Around noon, we rolled into Jackson, and the romantic notions of Cowboys and cattle runs became tangible. With a deliberate facade that still clung to the architecture of the old west, the town of Jackson was beautiful and majestic. The only thing tainting the scene was all the internal combustion engines lining the streets. We stopped for a quick refuel and bathroom break before heading north on the famous US-89 toward Grand Teton National Park.
As we rolled north, the landscape transformed into the archetype of Western beauty. The flat dales spread out before us into the distance, with the towering Tetons lining the gorgeous valley floor. The clouds hovering above the peaks were painted with every shade of white and grey. The purest blues, almost alight with an ethereal glow, peaked out from behind the dynamic conflagration of clouds. The mountains, steadfast and ancient, streaked with snow at their upper heights, combined to create an awe-inspiring scene.
At Jackson Hole, we stopped to take a selfie at the Grand Teton National Park sign and took in the powerful view. All around us, the valley stretched in every direction. Covered in sagebrush and distant fur trees, colliding with the granite mountains in the distance. Beyond being a seductive scene, the environment had an air of danger and turmoil. The clouds looked as though they could open up at a moment’s notice, dousing the valley with those powerful spring rains.
There is something so alluring about this part of the country. A component of the American lexicon, it speaks to a primal essence of our identity. It is woven into every facet of our culture, from movies and entertainment to literature and, of course, our history. The stories of Lewis and Clark roaming these vast expanses in search of the western passage we learned in school, to the Disney cartoons of Donald Duck, The Ranger and Bears, and Chip and Dale that were often set in the National Parks of the Wild West. Or the iconic Western Genre of film and television that has become synonymous with American culture. Travel anywhere in the world, and you will be asked about the American Cowboy. There’s no America without the West, and we were setting off into a stretch in our journey that would be saturated with it. I couldn’t wait to get started.
Just inside the park boundary, we came to the park’s Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor’s Center, Grand Teton National Park. Here, a beautiful lodge-style structure housed the Park’s museum and gift shop. With a massive multi-story glass facade that looked out over the range, the center was impressive as well as educational. A large three-dimensional topographical map showcased the Park’s boundary, and I stopped to take a closer look at our surroundings. We were standing on the edge of arguably the most recognizable protected lands on the planet.
When you combine the lands of Grand Teton with Yellowstone, which borders the north edge of Grand Teton, and Bridger-Teton National Forest, which borders both parks to the east, the total land mass reaches over 9,000 square miles—an area about the size of the state of Vermont. A simply staggering expanse of primarily untouched wilderness. An incredible treasure for the benefit of the people.
As we continued on beyond the center, we stumbled across a turnout with a small parking lot and pulled over for a closer look. Marked on the map as Teton Glacier Viewpoint, I knew it would offer something spectacular. If there is one thing I’ve learned on this adventure, every turnout in a national park hides a secret waiting to be explored. We exited the van and followed a trail through a moderately thick patch of idyllic evergreens. We emerged into a scene right out of a fairytale.
In a beautiful meadow stretching toward the mountains, tufts of yellow balsamroot wildflowers spread out toward the fur forest beyond. Grand Teton and its famous glacier towering in the distance was the first time I had personally seen a glacier. I stood there admiring the scene. The clouds and sky popped with a certain depth of color I had never before experienced. The girls posed for photos among the flowers while I read a marker explaining the glacier. It was a simple yet thrilling moment—an intensely beautiful scene.
Nestled in the rugged embrace of Wyoming’s Teton Range, a hidden jewel of nature’s artistry lies almost suspended in time. The Teton Glacier, an ancient river of ice, is a silent sentinel to the enduring might of Mother Nature. The crisp mountain air filled our lungs as we trekked into the fields below. This glacier, one of the few remaining in the Grand Teton National Park, is a mesmerizing sight. I saw an almost primal landscape as I gazed up at the glacier. Pine trees stand like stoic sentinels, and the air is alive with the distant calls of alpine wildlife. Above, the glacier’s icy tongue draped elegantly between the peaks like a frosted chandelier.
We continued up Teton Park Rd toward Jenny Lake from the glacier lookout. Traffic had picked up a bit here as we had to wait some time to find parking at the lake. We momentarily discussed bypassing the lake but decided to stay, and we are glad we did. The Jenny Lake overlook was another beautiful scene. A large paved area lined with stones looked down on the water and across to Grand Teton.
We walked the area, taking in the view. We paused for a picture, and another couple offered to take it for us. At the edge of the overlook against the half wall of stone, we took our picture with Grand Teton as our backdrop. One for the history books, for sure. We continued to explore the area for some time. I took particular notice of the clarity of the water. A light tone of ochre at the water’s edge, fading into aquamarine and then a deep blue at the lake’s depths. All with the beautiful backdrop of the granite Tetons dusted with snow and the intense Wyoming sky scattered with the fluffiest clouds.
After exploring the lake, we moved on to our final destination. We popped out of Grand Teton onto US-89/191 and headed east for Moran. We picked up US-26/789 at Moran and headed further East into the wilderness. Tucked in the heart of public lands sits a special place offering a unique opportunity. Heart Six Ranch is one of the oldest continually operated ranches in the U.S. Established around 1880, the ranch uses its proximity to Parkland to offer lodging and adventures like no other.
We arrived around two but were early for check-in, so we headed to the little restaurant overlooking the valley for some ice cream. Though no one knew, our horseback adventure didn’t start until 4, and we would return to a prepared covered wagon where we would spend the night. All of this had been very hush-hush, and only Diem knew a few minor details. It was the surprise of the century.
I had kept this one in my back pocket, not letting the secret out. We are staying tonight, as mentioned before, at one of the oldest ranches in Wyoming. Part of our stay will be a substantial horseback adventure through the Bridger-Teton National Forest. It promised to be a scene of lazy rivers, verdant hills, and forests, the Tetons ever looming on the horizon. As we sat enjoying a full lunch, as ice cream wasn’t enough, looking out over the Buffalo Fork River, I was so enthralled by the view that the thought of being out in it on horseback was almost more than I could comprehend.
As we enjoyed our buffalo burgers and chicken tenders, an older couple approached us and sat nearby. A conversation started, something I most certainly couldn’t resist, and we shared each other’s adventure stories. The couple, retired from Georgia, what a coincidence, were heading in the opposite direction from us, continuing a long, slow journey back home from a wedding in California, stopping at several national treasures along the way.
As we talked, a kid of about 10 ran up to a single-lens binocular mounted on a tripod nearby. It was pointed out the window that lined the dining room. While looking, he waved to another boy to come and look. An employee explained that the viewer was pointed to a dead elk on a sandbar in the distance. After a few moments, they tired of their discovery and hurried off to their parents, calling them out the door. I walked over and took a look myself. Indeed, an elk was lifeless and partially consumed by some predator or scavenger. It was an odd thing looking out and seeing nature at its cruelest.
After our late lunch, it was time to gather at the coral for orientation. Though the discussion had been on looking around, I nudged us toward the horses, and we gathered around to look. A cowboy asked me if we were riding and our reservation name. I gave him the name and party number, and the look on everyone’s faces was magical. At first, their faces seemed to react slowly, as if they did not fully believe our words. As the reality of our coming adventure sunk in, Lisa lit up with a simply infectious smile.
In short order, the ranch hands broke the crowd into riding groups. After a brief safety presentation, the horses were brought out and paired with their riders. It was a unique approach, as our guide explained that they went on the horse’s emotion and reaction to pair them up with a rider. One by one, the riders in our group were paired with a horse and walked to a mustering area where stirrups were adjusted, and the horses loaded with their riders awaited everyone else.
At some point, Lisa’s horse, who was named Diamond, got into a pissing contest with another horse, bucked a little, and copped an attitude with the other horses in her vicinity. This immediately scared Lisa, and she froze up and started to cry. I, getting mounted on my horse, addressed the ranch hands to assess the situation, fearing for a last-minute mission abort. Our handlers, I don’t know what better way to describe them, were the standard of professionalism. Olivia, in particular, the Cowgirl who led our group, had the situation handled so fast. Sensing Lisa’s coming breakdown, she had Lisa re-horsed and reassured before I could get over to her.
Lisa’s new horse was a true professional. Known internationally as Action, as in Lights, Camera, Action. Action was a celebrity of sorts, having appeared in television and film. He had recently retired to the Ranch after his final gig as Tom Hanks’s horse in the movie “News of the World.” He and Lisa instantly bonded, and aside from a few distracted eating episodes, he was a true gentleman. My horse was the aptly named Chuck, short for Chuck Wagon. A perfect name, a horse after my own heart. With crises averted, we banded the group together and crossed a low hill on the backside of the ranch towards the Bridger-Teton National Forest.
As we crossed the hill, Olivia told us how she came to be in Wyoming working on a horse ranch. Originally from Athens, Georgia, she had come to Wyoming on a vacation with her father. They, too, enjoyed a ride through the wilderness and time at the ranch. She fell into a card game with the ranch staff on one of their last nights. At the game’s conclusion, she was the newest member of the Heart Six Ranch. She wasn’t clear whether she won or lost the hand. But either way, she seemed pleased with the outcome.
Over the hill, we gathered again at a thin country road that was the ranch’s main artery in and out. Here, we briefly checked to ensure everyone got along splendidly with their horses. The road marked the edge of the National Forest. Across the road meandered the picturesque Buffalo Fork River, and the ranges of the Grand Tetons loomed large in the distance. Greenlit, we crossed the road and dropped down to the river and into the Bridger-Teton National Forest.
We followed the river for some time, clinging closely to her banks. The surreal backdrop of mountains and rivers created a beautiful panorama straight out of a Zane Grey Novel. Ever in the distance, the Grand Tetons showcased their massive power as they pulled and tugged the air and clouds around them. Seeming to suck in precipitation from every direction, slowly above the mountains, the sky filled with growing despair. We left the river a few miles down and began a climb over a hill. As we did so, we quietly trodded into an Aspen Wood, blocking out our distant surroundings.
As we emerged into a clearing towards the summit, I looked back to see an ominous sky. The clouds opened on the mountains in the distance. An aggressive storm blew unexpectedly in over the mountain. Chasing us as we made the summit. At first, only the mountains were painted over by the thunderous rain, but it was sweeping down into the valley and toward us at a concerning speed. The cracks of thunder increased, and I could hear the concern in Olivia’s voice as she urged us on.
We had over an hour to get back to the stables and a high hill in between. A brief discussion was had to hunker down in the trees at a lower elevation if the weather got too rough. But with things potentially worsening the longer we stayed, the decision was made to push forward. The temperature dropped ten degrees within minutes, and we were all soaked. Olivia shrouded the tiniest of us, Jennie, in her raincoat. We all wore long sleeves, but the temperature drop was unexpected and dramatic. I tucked my hands in my soaked flannel sleeves to keep them from freezing, and we all made a forced sprint back to the coral.
I managed, in just dumb luck, to capture a lightning bolt over Diem’s shoulder as she trodded along, soaked and concerned, just in front of me. It wasn’t long before my hands were so cold they began to go numb. I became incredibly concerned for the girls, hoodies soaked and cold, pulled over their now-soaked hair. We pushed forward through some tough rains and penetrating winds for close to an hour. Out on those trails in the Bridger-Teton National Forest, cold, wet, concerned, and on the edge of America’s frontier, we were Cowboys and Cowgirls, experiencing real adversity of what it was like in the early days of America in the unforgiving west. It was a tremendous and unforgettable experience.
Toward the end of the ride, the mud became slippery and a little treacherous. Once or twice, I felt Chuck’s shoes slip underneath, and he jerked and shifted to keep his balance. Topping the last hill, the stables came into sight just as the rain stopped. Several hands were waiting as we came in to facilitate a quick and speedy dismount from our horses. Soaked, freezing, and pining for warmth, I ran to the van, cranked it up, and pulled it around. As we loaded up, muddy and exhausted, it again began to rain. But we still found the time to hunt down Olivia and give her a tip. She earned it.
By the time we reached the office to check in and returned to the covered wagon, the rain had broken for the last time, and slowly, the sky was repopulated by cerulean blues and whispy whites. Beneath this backdrop of picturesque skies, I set up our portable kitchen in front of our covered wagon and prepared dinner. The wagon was large enough, containing two sets of bunk beds at the entrance and a queen bed at the far end. A gas heater was mounted in the middle of the covered wagon. The entire structure was brought tight under a canvas shell so tense you could bounce a quarter on it.
After dinner, we went to the lodge for showers and a little R&R. The lodge had a large community area with large windows overlooking the river and mountains. Maggie queued up for a billiard game while the girls and I sat enjoying the rustic atmosphere. The hour growing late, we retreated to the wagon for one last surprise. Purchased earlier in the day, we produced a birthday cake for Lisa, now partially melted from sitting in the van while we were on our horseback adventure. We sang Happy Birthday and enjoyed cake in the wagon on the side of a mountain overlooking the Grand Tetons and the Buffalo Fork River. I sat for some time, marveling at our accomplishments. We had survived another fantastic day in this unique world beneath an endless sky.
To explore some of the Parks and Monuments we’ve explored and more, click here for the National Park Services.
The horseback riding looks great. 30 years ago I did that for 10 days in Arizona on a dude ranch. That was a fantastic experience.