We awoke shortly after sunrise and began to get ready. Today would be the beginning of three days of what we hoped to be a fantastic journey. An adventure into the jungle mountain foothills of the Himalayas for a journey for the storybooks.
We ran down to grab a few Thai omelets from the little restaurant at the inn and wait for our guide. He was to pick us up at 8:30, and we would then head into the jungle. Nong arrived right on time, and we loaded up.
The Indian Elephant in Thailand.
The story of the Elephant in Thailand is a bit complicated. Long revered in Buddhist culture, the animal has been protected and used as a beast of burden throughout the ages. But, in a bit of historical irony, the Elephant abuse by logging operations for centuries has reduced their forest habitats. As a result, habitats for wild elephants in Thailand have shrunk to as few as 12,000 square miles. The situation is so desperate that in the late 2000’s it was estimated that wild elephants in Thailand had dropped to less than a thousand. In comparison, domestic stocks sit at just under 4,000.
Though logging in Thailand is now illegal and wild elephants have been protected for decades, the peripheral damage from habitat loss and farmers taking drastic measures to protect their crops have taken their toll. Between 2012 and 2018, some 25 wild elephants died from electrocution. Mostly from fences around farmer’s fields.
But humans are not immune. Wild elephants caused 46 human deaths in the same period. The elephant situation is bleak for wild populations. Even with government bans on logging and protections for wild elephants, their populations are still struggling to grow.
Another issue is what to do with domestic stocks. For example, elephants have been domesticated in Thailand for thousands of years, so long that some lines no longer know how to be wild. So what do you do with an animal species and a possible sub-breed that has become domesticated? It’s such a complicated and unfortunate situation that there is no real solution as of now.
The Mahout
One of the not well-known sides of this debate is the Mahout. A mahout is an elephant rider. Traditionally it was a generational family affair, with young boys being paired with young elephants in a bond that lasted both of their lives—a profession in Thailand for thousands of years. The Mahout, like the Elephant, is nearing extinction.
The mahouts for centuries raised their elephants with their children and together created jobs for themselves and the elephants. Often in logging or jungle transportation, the relationship benefited both. With strict laws banning logging and government crackdowns, both the elephants and mahouts became destitute.
In the 1980’s many Mahouts took their elephants to major city centers like Bangkok. There they would often perform tricks and sell items to feed themselves. In a sense, the mahouts and their elephants had become beggars. It was spiraling into a real problem. Enter Maetaeng Elephant Park.
Maetaeng Elephant Park
Maetaeng Elephant Park began as an idea in 1989 after the logging ban began. A direct result of Increasing numbers of Elephants roaming city streets and unemployment resulting from the collapse of the logging industry.
As the domesticated lines of Elephants are unable to be released, and the Mahouts that care for the massive animals without other marketable skills, a crisis was beginning to take shape. Long lovers of Elephants, the Chailert family opened the first park of its kind, the Maetaeng Elephant Park in 1996.
They are dedicated to the care and sustainability of domestic populations and the welfare of the Mahouts and their families. A place for the Mahouts to continue their ancient traditions of Elephant husbandry and for the Elephants to grow and thrive.
The Elephant Clinic
With the camp growing in recognition and attendance, the park established the region’s first birthing center in 2006. It wasn’t long before donations and support extended to expand the center’s capabilities to include minor medical needs for all elephants.
By 2009 the clinic had taken on a more significant role in the area. With the Elephants and Mahouts raising substantial funds through painting and artwork for the clinic, it expanded in 2009 to become a fully functioning free elephant hospital for all elephants in the region, not just the elephants of Maetaeng Park.
The Fun begins
As we headed through the park entrance, Diễm and I took a little stroll on an ox-pulled cart. Around an old village and up to the elephant stadium. We bought a basket of bananas and sugar cane and stepped into the venue—a set of bleachers to one side and a row of Mahouts on their Elephants on the other.
We walked up to feed the elephants, and before I knew what was happening, the Elephant closest to me snagged a bunch right out of my basket. I attempted to retrieve it but realized as I grabbed it that wrestling anything from an Elephants’s trunk was futile. However, just holding the bananas gave me an instant feel for how strong the trunk was.
She was grateful, though. After she shoved the entire bunch into her mouth, she kissed me in thanks. You’ve never lived until an Elephant has kissed you. Then, after playing around for a while, we took our seats, and the show began.
Elephant Exhibition
The show began with a description of the park and what it provides. There was a small community out here in the jungle around the park, and it was mostly the Mahouts and their families. The Elephants showcased some of their old skills in the logging business, which they seemed happy to be out of work in that area, and showed us their new job—a fantastic ability to paint.
The Elephants lined up next to their easels while the Mahouts gathered their brushes and paints. Apart from keeping their brushes clean, the Mahouts stood by while the Elephants worked their masterpieces. One Elephant in particular named Suda stole the show. Her paintings were excellent, and she knew it. She was the last to finish, and you could see why. They were all outstanding, but hers were beautiful.
After the art exhibit, it was time for our Elephant trek. We walked out of the viewing area and onto the raised platform that awaited. We had to rise to the Elephant’s level, and our Elephant pulled up to the platform. Diễm was a little unsure, but she climbed into the Howdah with just the slightest coaxing.
Elephant Trek
Our Howdah was secured, and off we went. Straight into the river, our Elephant trudged through the deep water. It had to be 8 feet deep, but with our Elephant, it was no problem. We went for some time along the river before turning out of the river and up the steep river bed and into the jungle.
We rode for several miles up and down the mountain hills. It was a mode of transportation I didn’t know I would enjoy daily. Like a Jeep with no suspension, she could go anywhere, and you felt it. There ain’t no mountain high enough. There ain’t no river deep enough. After a while, we reentered the river and headed back upstream towards the park.
How To Wash An Elephant
After we disembarked our Elephant, it was time to head downstream. We boarded a bamboo raft with two stickmen at each end and began our quiet hour-long journey down through the jungle. With elephants walking through the river and wilderness all around, it was quite an experience.
We passed tiny settlements on the riverside, ancient trees, and a few rocky outcrops. At one point, in the middle of the river, sat a woman knee-deep in water selling cold beverages. There was nothing around save for her. You really must admire her entrepreneurial spirit.
A few turns, some mild rapids, and around the bend came a herd of Elephants. A few sanctuary volunteers were bathing them. It was heartwarming and touching to see the Elephants as we slowly floated past just a few feet away. The portage was not far now, and I was thankful for that, as the sun was beginning to bear down on us. Our time with the Elephants was coming to a close. Soon I would find myself face to face with another crisis. Only this time, it was a crisis of people. That, however, is a story for another time.
Click Here for a short film on the Elephant trek
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Below you will find the following article concerning this story about the lost tribes of Southeast Asia.
