As always seems to be the case, it comes quickly and without warning. One day it’s been so long since you’ve heard of a case of Covid in the country that it’s hard to remember when. The next day the nation is breaking daily records, and it’s time to decide. As I discussed in the latest Dragon Diaries, Covid is back, and with only a week until school lets out for Tet, we decided to head to An Lao a little early. We discussed the time away with the teachers, but it didn’t much matter. By Tuesday morning, schools were beginning to close earlier than expected for the coming Tet holiday across the country, so it ended up being a moot point.
We made our mad dash across Da Nang Sunday. Loading up on candies, holiday specialties, and the diverse delicacies one could get in the city were often hard to come by in the countryside, especially if any lockdown goes into effect. Tea, beef, banana leaf-wrapped pork, beef rolls, bun bao’s, candies, dried mango (my favorite), and for some random reason, dijon mustard. It was a day filled with electricity. Diem and I ate lunch at the market. Something I love to do but don’t always have the time for.
Cao Lau
Packing
With all the laundry washed and dried, all the stuff piled together, and delicates in the freezer, we called an early night with everything still left to pack. We woke early on Monday and played a little game of not it. Diem rushed off to secure a few last items, and Suxu, as they had spent the night with their grandparents. A quick scrub of the apartment and packing far more than we would need, but no idea how long we would be gone. Diem returned with the girls and immediately scuttled off to purchase a month’s worth of masks and hand sanitizer.
As she returned, we finished preparing, and Diem called a taxi. We had to get to the rendezvous to meet up with my man Trieu Vi. He drives the only regular route in and out of An Lao to Da Nang along with his partner. One trip a day, from An Lao to Da Nang and back. Every day of the year except for the Tet holiday. The taxi arrived, we loaded up, and off we went to the rendezvous. I must say that Da Nang was warm and beautiful that day. Unfortunately, it has been unseasonably cold of late. Most regions in Vietnam have broken cold records in the past two months. We’ve had frost in Da Nang, and even Saigon has recently recorded chilly temperatures not seen since the days of the French.
Away We Go
We pulled around the corner, and Trieu was waiting. He had called when we were en route, asking where we were. On our way, I could tell Diem was saying in her assertive Vietnamese. With the breakout growing by the hour, we weren’t the only ones headed out of the city, and the van was already what I would have declared at capacity before Trieu began loading our belongings. After some Tetris-type skills with luggage and passengers, we were on our way.
As was usually the case, I almost exclusively sat in the front. The van has an extra row shoved in, and there is virtually no legroom beyond the front seat. Diem sat behind me, as there was not enough room for all four of us. The season was on display as we rolled out of Da Nang and into the countryside. The last time we were out in the country was just after harvest. The fields were barren muddy flats. Now they were so green, as fields of emerald.
A little lunch
As customary, once out of Da Nang, we stop for a bathroom break and lunch along the way. A little rice house was hugging the highway. We stopped and were off to the water closet first to clean up. The bathroom was in the back of the open restaurant, unbeknownst to me, on top of a railroad track. I stepped out before, only to be surprised by a train whipping by out of nowhere. I had my phone in my hand and snapped it up to catch the speeding locomotive as it whipped by. We returned to the table for some chicken, rice, and pickled vegetables—a great snack to keep us going.
We continued south past Quang Ngai before seeing the coast for the last time and turning west towards the sleepy mountain district. It was, strangely enough, two years to the day that I first made my way up this route into An Lao for the first time. Now that’s providence. The ride was as beautiful and lush as I remember then, but I have not seen since. The last few times we have been to An Lao, it was in-between seasons, and the view was not nearly as pastoral and lush as it was; nevertheless, it was terrific to be headed home with Diem for Tet again.
The Mountain Gates
When we arrived at the gates to An Lao, the scene was as on our last trip. I discussed it in a post entitled “A Very Different Road To An Lao,” which you can read here. Only this time, the makeshift tarp had been replaced with a more permanent Army tent. In addition, the authorities were unloading a frame for a large metal structure and were preparing to ramp up security in and out of the mountain district. It appears we are slipping in just in time.
Some quick paperwork, a temperature check, and all in the transport were cleared for entry. We made it in as the sun was beginning to set, and as usual, Trieu Vi dropped us off on the small mountain highway at the beginning of the street that leads down into the village. Diem’s sister and brother-in-law were already there to help collect our belongings, and we were all carried to the house in a procession of motorbikes. After a good portion of the day stuffed in a vehicle, I was keen to walk the half-mile into the village.
A Warm Welcome
As Diem and I walked down the road, over the little bridge, and through the gate that marks the quiet mountain hamlet, the village children began to appear slowly, shouting out their lessons piecemeal from their English studies. Hello, how are you? What’s your name? We had a little laugh, and they wanted to get a picture. Some of these children rarely, if ever, have interacted with a native English speaker. Practicing their English with a native speaker is a rare treat. They followed us down the lane to the house.
As we stepped onto the property, I couldn’t help but smile. Finally, finally, it was Tet, and we were home. All of the family would be arriving in the coming days. I couldn’t wait to see them all. I have had the pleasure of getting to know them over the past few years. I’ve been in their homes, broken bread with them in their neighborhoods, go on vacations with them. I never dreamed I would have quickly built such a rapport with my new brothers and sisters. It has been a fantastic journey.
Presenting Oneself
As was the case, first thing Tuesday morning, Diem and I had to present ourselves at the local, for lack of a better word, magistrate’s office. Diem didn’t have to, but she’s always the one to take care of me. As a foreigner and extended stay foreigner, my movements around the country are monitored regularly. Not in any intrusive way. But if I travel between cities, and towns, or even move apartments in Da Nang, I must report my presence to any local authorities. It’s just the deal.
The paperwork was acceptable, I’m no stranger, and we were in and out in minutes. Always concluding with an official, welcome to An Lao. That day was relatively mild. I settled in to get some work done. One must still pay the bills. As the day’s heat faded, I spent some time outside in Ba’s, my father-in-law’s, woodshop. He’s a phenomenal craftsman. We sat in the cool night, had dinner together, and did our best to understand each other. It was beautiful to be back in An Lao. The cool mountain breeze, the fresh air, the immediate calm that washes over me. Diem marked our expected departure date as March first. There is plenty of time to see what wonders the area has for us.
