A conundrum, an enigma, familiar, foreign, a piece of home, a half a world apart. These are the phrases I can use to describe Doi Inthanon National Park. The highest peak in Thailand, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas. A breathtakingly beautiful place that at times felt so familiar I thought I was back in Georgia.
The Mountain
Tucked in the northwest corner of Thailand. Just under one hundred miles from the Myanmar border. Sits the highest summit in Thailand, Doi Inthanon. Sitting at 8,415 feet and classified as an Ultra Prominent peak, Doi Inthanon is both big and powerful. As Green as the jungle provides and climbs rapidly into the sky.
An Ultra Prominent Peak is a peak described by geologists to be at least 4,900 feet higher than any point within its specific range. I can assure you that Doi Inthanon is the highest mountain for quite a distance. The rapidity with which it rises from the tropical savanna below is breathtaking.
Mountain Comparissons
To put the mountain’s prowess into perspective I’ll offer a few comparisons. The highest peak in my home state of Georgia is Brasstown Bald. Brasstown Bald sits at 4,783 feet and is about 100 miles from the Capital of Atlanta. Atlanta sits at around 1,000 feet on average. That’s an elevation change of around 3,800 feet in 100 miles.
The highest peak in the US east of the Mississippi is Mount Mitchell in North Carolina. It sits at 6,684 feet and is roughly 50 miles outside of Asheville, North Carolina. Asheville sits at 2,134 feet. This gives us an elevation change of around 4500 feet in about 50 miles.
In San Diego County, California we have Hot Springs Mountain which has a peak of 6,535 feet. It sits just at 50 miles from downtown San Diego. Since San Diego sits on the ocean, we can safely say that’s 6,535 feet elevation change in 50 miles. Not too Shabby.
The entrance checkpoint to Doi Inthanon sits at an elevation of 1,100 feet 13.86 miles as the crow flies from the summit. 7,315 feet in just under 14 miles. Quite an impressive ascent. However, it takes over an hour and an additional 10 miles of curvy road to make that steep of a climb. It’s a ride that’s a bit laborious, but full of many surprises.
The Park
The park is its own enigma. With Doi Inthanon being the highest point in the country, its control lies exclusively with the Thai Royal Air Force. A major base has been established near the summit, So a couple of military checkpoints must be cleared to reach the top. In addition to the Royal Air Force base, The summit also houses the national observatory and the most powerful telescopes in the region.
Originally named Doi Luang, The mountain and its beautiful forests were enjoyed for centuries by the Chiang Mai Royal Family of the old Lanna Kingdom. King Inthawichayanon, the last King of Chiang Mai, ordered the preservation of the mountain and its surrounding forests for future generations. He had made its preservation much of his life’s work and upon his death in 1897 his body was interred at its peak and the mountain was renamed Doi Inthanon in his honor.
In 1954 the areas around the mountain were annexed by the newly founded parks service and the entire area became Doi Inthanon National Park. The Royal Park Service in Thailand was created in that year with 13 other National Parks.
Given that there is much military influence in the area the park itself is very well maintained. Western-style blacktop, signage, and guardrails give the mountain park a very at-home feel. The entire park is equipped with modern facilities and plenty of tourist places to pick up a few souvenirs or snacks.
Landscape
One of the interesting aspects and beautiful attributes of this park is its landscape. With elevation changes so rapid and temperatures and atmospheres so varied, the landscapes change quickly. With no less than 7 unique climates up through the elevations, the variety is impressive.
Dry Dipterocarp Forests
At the base of the mountain are the standard subtropical forests of Southeast Asia. Broadleaf plants familiar to jungle areas fill the landscape. Palms, bananas, teak, and bamboo dominate at this level. This particular forest is a bit different from rainforests in other areas. As these trees are deciduous and the undergrowth is often thick and lush.
As this region has a wet season and a prolonged dry season, the leaves of the deciduous trees fall in the dry season so the plants can conserve water. This opens up sunlight in the underbrush causing an explosion in tropical shrubs, vines, and ground plants. This creates a very thick jungle much different from other tropical regions such as South America and Congo Africa.
Mixed Deciduous Forests
As you climb a little higher you come to the next layer in this ever-changing environment. Not much different than the previous layer only the addition of a few conifer varieties such as the previous layer with the teak tree becoming a major species. Often a bit cooler and less dry, this layer tends to be lusher year-round.
Dry Evergreen Forest
As the leaves begin to fall less and less the trees become more evergreen. Often consisting of Magnolia and ficus-type trees, the leaves become permanent and the canopy more defined. We begin to see a reduction of ground plants and grasses as less light begins to reach the forest floor. I even began to see a few very southern-style pines begin to fill the tree line.
Pine Forest
About halfway up the mountain, I had a very strange experience. As the landscape kept changing and the environment kept evolving I was transported back home. Suddenly the air had cooled, the pine trees had filled the forest and I was back in Georgia. It was very strange. With the roadway and its accessories identical as back home, I felt as if I was riding through the piedmont of Georgia in early spring. Cool and bright and pine trees everywhere, it was quite a sight.
Lower Mountain Rainforest
As we climb past the pine forest we head into a typical rainforest layer. This tropical evergreen forest exists at this level due to the constant annual moisture it receives. Not entirely dependent on the rainy season, the lower cloud layers that condense on the mountainside provide moisture year-round. With dense heavy canopy growth, you can see the expansive shaded ground beneath. Not high enough to get particularly cold here, this layer stays at a perpetual state of moist evergreens.
Mountain Peat Bog
As we continue to climb through the layers we come to the beginning of the higher elevation ecosystems. The landscape begins to become strange and enchanting. The peat bog layer appears normal on the roadside, but offers a much stranger environment within its walls. Dark, cool and moist. The wet warm tropical rainforest gives way to a temperate swampy bog near the top. Moss begins to become the dominant plant an a moist, green lacquer seems to paint the landscape.
The Cloud Forest
After many hours of driving from Chiang Mai we finally reach over 8,500 feet and the otherworldly and beautiful cloud forest. Not much different from the bog ecosystem, but more enchanted mountain rainforest than a bog. A world where sphagnum moss and lichen cover everything like a blanket. Statues, rails on the walking trails, if it sits within the forest walls it shall be consumed.
Diem and I arrived at the peak just as the morning sun was beginning to burn off the clouds. Near the entrance to the summit park a cloud sat just off the summit. It was quite windy here and it was a beautiful sight to see as the wind peel off parts of the clouds around us and blow them across the summit.
We had brought raincoats and warm clothes as it is often rainy and cold here at the summit. But by our arrival, the temperature had already reached into the upper 40s and was expected to peak close to 50 today. We headed over to the walkway which led a few yards into the cloud forest and to the marker which rested at the highest point in the land.
The Last King
Diem and I walked up to the sign commemorating the location and took a picture. We then began to head into the forest itself to pay homage to the man who made this site and the forest park possible. About 20 yards down the path sat a shrine. It was always an interesting thing to see the tombs and mausoleums of Kings and world leaders. It is something that never fails to overwhelm.
In front of the shrine was a beautifully decorated grave with black and white marble. Surrounded by the things he always cherished. Guarded by the elephants he so fought to preserve. Diem and I stood at the grave and prayed for, honored, and thanked Inthawichayanon, The Last King of Chiang Mai. Interred here at the summit he so loved on November 27, 1897.
After a walk around the summit in deep thought Diem and I headed to my main inspiration for coming to this part of Thailand. A walk among the giants of the cloud forest on the Ang Ka Luang Nature Trail.
Click Here for a short film of our trip to and at the summit of Doi Inthanon
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