I awoke early as the sun had not risen yet. We had to get on a bus pretty early, and I was going to prepare our breakfast. I found some bacon at the grocery store and made Diem and me a more traditional American breakfast. We had initially planned on cooking something exotic at some point, but the contents of the grocery store required way too much effort. I mean, who wants to gut and clean fish, harvest your vegetables, and everything else that goes with cooking dinner from the definition of scratch not understood in the States?
The Extraction Point
So I made the traditional bacon and eggs, some pastry, fresh Dragon fruit, oranges, and, of course, coffee—a not-too-heavy start to what would prove to be an unforgettable day. We finished eating, got ready, and headed for the old quarter. We sat at a coffee shop and had that delicious, sweet, and creamy Vietnamese coffee I had heard about and finally found. The hotels were trying to offer a more Western style of coffee, creating a lost-in-translation attempt at a simple cup of Joe. This was very unfortunate as a real cup of Vietnamese coffee prepared in its classic technique, sweetened with condensed milk, and poured over ice to cool you in the hot tropical heat is sublime. I sat on the street in front of the coffee house and enjoyed the morning while we waited to be picked up.
Ha Long Bay
Today, we were headed to Ha Long Bay. A UNESCO World Heritage Site. Listed as one of the seven wonders of the natural world and awarded the honor of being on the shortlist of the most beautiful bays in the world. It was the site I wanted to see the most in my time here. I would be headed there momentarily. It was a three-hour ride to Ha Long Harbor and another hour-long boat ride to the bay. We boarded the bus, went through the basics with our guide, and then headed on our way. The engine rumbled to a diesel gurgled crank as we went through a short labyrinth of streets and onto the highway. We crossed the Red River and headed into the countryside.
We would stop halfway for a half-hour pit stop before continuing to the bay. The bus had WiFi, which was a plus. Most places did here. The country was well-serviced, and up until now, I only found myself unconnected a couple of very brief times. I used the complimentary WiFi to finalize yesterday’s entries and proofread. We moved along a landscape of emerging and disappearing towns and villages whose empty expanses between were filled with glistening rice paddies, eventually disappearing into the jungle haze. Even in the countryside and in new construction, the former French colonial influence could be seen—an indicator of how tight France’s grip over this tropical paradise once was.
Production Workshop for Disabled People
We stopped at the halfway point to use the bathroom and buy a snack or a souvenir. It was quite a massive complex and appeared, at least if the sign was accurate, to be a place the government had set up to offer jobs for the handicapped and the disabled. Everyone here working was either physically handicapped or disfigured. Some of the older ones, maybe slightly older than myself, had what looked like horrible skin deformities and burns. I later learned this was a form of chloracne, a deformity caused by dioxin exposure—one of the chemicals found in Agent Orange that was once dropped on Vietnam by the ton.
I could only guess that these may have been former childhood survivors of the U.S. attempts at deforestation by napalm and Agent Orange during the war. Later generations were disabled and affected by the poisons hiding in the landscape some 50 years after the war ended. Who knows what other stories the workers had with their injuries and disabilities? It was no coincidence, I was sure, that this shop and its workers were halfway between the capital of Vietnam and its most prominent tourist attraction. All buses and transports stopped here. The evidence of former war still existed out here. All one had to do was look around.
A small contribution
The gardens, sculptures, crafts, and jewelry sold here were all tended to, primarily made, and run entirely by the disabled. It was a thought-provoking, wonderful, unnecessary, and beautiful place. It is just tricky to explain. Besides the oddity of it all, the grounds had some beautiful work. Unique sculptures, paintings, fountains, clothes, and trinkets. All for sale and all examples of capitalism slowly infiltrating this once closed-off land. We purchased some snacks and coffee, a small donation to the uniquely beautiful people who operated this place, and returned to the bus. Again, we pulled onto the highway and went through the rice fields.
Arriving at the docks
We finally made it to the town of Ha Long, and apart from the architecture, we had the smell and feel of a typical resort beach town. It was a rather rushed experience getting from the bus to the boat. We purchased our tickets and made our way to the dock almost immediately. The dock was a rather interesting setup. I’ve seen a step dock in Vietnam and parts of Latin America. The steps provide a large surface area for many boats to board in the front, offering a more significant number of boats to board in a smaller area and the ability to board no matter the tide is level—a relatively simple solution.
Boarding and a little lunch
We had booked a lunch/sunset cruise, so shortly after the boat left its moorings, lunch was served. It was an hour-long ride to our first stop, the giant grotto that was said to hang high into the sky and the cave system that fell deep into its recesses. It was a group dining experience, and four other guests sat with us at our table. Across from me was John. He was about my age, and I heard him say excuse me in a familiar accent as he slid past another patron.
I was pleased to find that he was born and raised in Toronto, though not an American. A Canuck, not too bad, and it was nice to have someone from the same continent to converse with. He was teaching global history at Beijing University and was in Vietnam on vacation. The university was closed for three weeks for the Chinese New Year, and he spent it in Vietnam. We discussed college football, the NFL, the NHL, and the Super Bowl in Atlanta. We ate our roasted whole fish, sautéed cabbage, salad, steamed clams, and other tasty offerings. It was quite an enjoyable boat ride.
The Giant Karsts of Ha Long
Slowly, the landscape began to evolve outside the boat’s windows, and the uniqueness of this place began to become apparent. Giant jungle-covered limestone-sheared karsts jutted hundreds of feet into the tropical sky. The sun was entirely without smoggy haze or heavy cloud cover for the first time since arriving in Vietnam, and my neck was telling me so as the sun began to bake my exposed skin.
All around me, It looked like a prehistoric scene out of a Hollywood blockbuster. I don’t think the words will be good enough. The pictures will give you a better service. We stopped on the shores of the largest karst in the archipelago and climbed a switch-backing staircase hundreds of feet up the sheer limestone cliff. At the top of the staircase, a massive cave mouth opened deep into the heart of the 20 million-year-old limestone formation.
Into the Dragon’s Belly
Ha Long’s nickname is the descending dragon. And it felt like we were going down into the belly of an ancient beast as we headed deep into the impressive natural structure. It had to be a mile in and out of the expansive cave, and there were times as we traversed its mighty caverns that our fellow tourists looked like ants way down behind us in the remarkable structure.
Pandora
We eventually exited the cave high up the cliffs and worked our way down the other side towards our vessel waiting below. We boarded the boat and headed off to do some kayaking. We disembarked again as we arrived at the floating complex and collected our equipment: life jackets and oars. As we floated off following our guide, we worked our way into a cave. We emerged into a land lost in time.
We were transported to another time and dimension. The cave was the only way into this hidden cove, giving it all a sense of being transported to a long-lost world. Exotic birds swooped and sang high above as they navigated the sheer jungle cliffs. Monkeys patrolled the shores, looking to snatch up easy meals from the shallows. I felt like Indiana Jones navigating an uncharted land. “No time for love, Dr. Jones.”
Ti Top Island
We finished up and headed to our final destination in the archipelago. Ti Top Island. It had a beach for bathing in the hot tropical sun and an almost vertical black obsidian-carved staircase that climbed straight up the sheer cliff. At the top was a beautiful observation pagoda. Diem would not be joining me, but John almost laid down the gauntlet, and we started our ascent. At times, it was so steep I had all fours on the steps aiding in my climb—420 steps to the top. About three-quarters of the way up, I wasn’t sure I would make it. It was hot, and I was sweating, and my calves and thighs were screaming. The pagoda was in sight a few more steps, and I was done.
Reaching the top
John was already at the top, not having broken a sweat. I tried to conceal my exhaustion as my hands were on my thighs, doubled over in momentary pain. When I finally composed myself, I was speechless. Laid out before me was one of the most unique, humbling, thought-provoking sites I have ever seen. An image that could only prove the existence of God and the hand he played in creating this fantastic world. The Japanese call this sensation Yugen. A profound awareness of the universe that triggers an emotional response too deep and mysterious for words. I took in the view for about a half hour, then descended back down the obsidian staircase. Or I think it would be more accurate to say I tumbled down.
Sunset in the Archipelago
We were offered fruit and local sweet wine for a snack on the boat ride back to the docks. I spent most of that time on deck as we took pictures of the sun setting over the storied cliffs. It was the end of a perfect day. One of the most amazing days I’ve ever experienced. It was extraordinary. The clouds played with the setting sun, offering an array of great picture moments. Darkness had fallen entirely by the time we stepped off the boat. As we climbed back on the bus, I settled into my seat and fell asleep.
Click Here for an article about Ha Long Bay being one of the top tourist destinations in all of Asia.
Or Click Here for more of our articles on other UNESCO World Heritage sites we have visited.
