Well, what can I say. The Constant Epicurean site is devoted to mostly travel, culture, history, food, and all those things that are dear to my heart. I began the Dragon Diaries section as the pandemic began for a few reasons. Discussing our struggles, dealing with the pandemic, and the overall situation in the world, wasn’t exactly what I had in mind for the website. But that story of how we’re coping. What it was like dealing with the pandemic as an expat in a country far from home. And just telling the story to not only the very few avid readers I have, but to also my friends and family back in the states, was important to me. And so Dragon Diaries was born. We’ve been through a global pandemic, and one of the worst Vietnamese Typhoon seasons in recorded history here in the Dragon Diaries.
That being said, you know by now if I’m posting here, then Houston, we have a problem. Sorry, I couldn’t help myself, I love Tom Hanks. In real time, we returned from Nha Trang, visited An Lao, and took a trip into the central highlands province of Dak Lak for a friend’s wedding. But in the Constant Epicurean timeline, we are still in Nha Trang. But do not worry, some great stories are coming soon. We had to cut our trip in Dak Lak short to be blunt. In a matter of about 48 hours we went from wedding festivities, and ancient elephant tribes, to booking the next flight to Da Nang.
The Details
On April 27th a hotel receptionist in Yên Bái Province tested positive. A hotel where four Indian experts had been in quarantine. Two days later on the 29th, the Ministry of Health confirmed 45 new cases. These included five from community transmissions, the other 40 were still in quarantine. The five community transmissions all came in contact with a man from Hà Nam Province, patient #2899, who tested positive after completing his 14 day mandatory quarantine. He had flown in from Japan via Da Nang International Airport on the 7th of April. His quarantine took place in Da Nang and he tested negative for coronavirus three times before being released. Two days later on May 1st, Vietnam confirmed another 5 cases in Hà Nam, 3 cases in Hanoi and 2 cases in Hưng Yên. All appeared to be contracted from patient #2899, who had been traveling around Vietnam for work.
This was the day of the wedding we were attending in the mountain region of Dak Lak. Within days positive cases were detected in 19 provinces and major cities including Da Nang. Needless to say this fact encouraged our decision to cut our vacation short and return home as fast as possible. It was really strange. Diem and I had seen the family off after the wedding, and were originally planning a few extra days in Dak Lak. I remember us walking around the mountain city of Buon Ma Thuot. Enjoying a bowl of a local specialty on the street, and then some coffee. We both seemed off, and something seemed wrong. And completely unsolicited we discussed returning to Da Nang the following day. And then the reports started coming in. It was just surreal.
Returning to Da Nang
We slid into Da Nang as things were beginning to shut down. We made it home without incident. But by the time we arrived back in Da Nang things were developing quickly. We received formal notice to close the salon immediately. One by one public spaces began to close. The beach, street vendors, parks, the mall, pretty much everything except brick and mortar restaurants and of course grocery stores and markets. Naturally the restaurants are take away or delivery only. It is a bit different this time, as the government has declared it’s desire to do more “targeted” lockdowns.
So the city as a whole isn’t locked down, though we can’t leave the city, so in that regards it is. But, we can go for walks, and are free to roam for the most part. But with beaches, parks, and damn near everything else closed, there’s nowhere to go except to buy groceries, or just stroll around the neighborhood. Don’t think I’m not getting on the motorbike just to go. My version of a stroll around the park. With just at 484 square miles, I will see all of it. The only problem we have is little Xu. With the shop closed Kevin was going to go to An Lao, but the street behind the shop came down with an active case of Covid, so he wasn’t allowed to leave the city, and neither were we. Needless to say, the street behind the shop is completely locked down.
SuXu
Big Su stayed in Da Nang, she did not want to go to the wedding, so is with us now. Little Xu also did not want to go to the wedding, but wanted to stay with Diem’s parents in An Lao. As we went through An Lao to go to Dak Lak, we left her there after a short visit. Obviously originally we were to travel back through An Lao to pick up Xu after the wedding, but had to take a flight back to Da Nang as time was critical. Our plan then became for Diem to immediately take the transport to An Lao immediately and alone, there was no need for me to complicate anything, and return the following morning with Xu.
But as I stated, things got out of hand so quickly that the transports would not carry passengers only goods. Due to active cases in the city, and a full understanding of the outbreak still unknown. So Diem and I headed to Da Nang’s version of Cosco and loaded up on snacks, candies, food, milk, coffee for dad, a 100 dollars worth of sorry we can’t be there, and sent it on the transport. Xu will probably in the end be better off than us. She will have plenty of open space, cousins, and family to keep her company, and a pile of guilt candy to keep her on a sugar rush until this outbreak gets sorted out.
A Strange Scene
As we arrived at the normal rondezvous for the daily transport to An Lao, the picture was grim. The spot where we always meet Trieu Vi, a row of stalls that service transports heading to many of the edges of civilization here, were all shuttered save for a few. Trieu had already informed us that this was the last chance to send anything out. He did not know when he would resume service beyond the day. Most of the stalls were already shuttered, preparing for the inevitable reality. The city was shutting down, and quickly. Most’s oportunity to leave had already passed. We were fortunate to have a transport still operating at all to send some supplies and gifts to An Lao.
An Unknown Path Forward.
The good news is I have plenty of work for now. So we just kind of sit and wait for updates. The complete picture is not entirely understood, as it appeared to coincide with an additional outbreak of illegal entries on the Chinese and Cambodian borders. The government is still trying to piece the entire situation together. But what is known is that in a country who just broke the 3,000 total cases mark, we have recorded over 600 cases in the last week. Across 19 provinces and major cities and from four separate variants since. It is definitely much more aggressive than our previous outbreaks, and vaccinations are going at a snail’s pace.
As of May 9th total vaccinations were at 851,813. So they are happening, but supply issues seem to be a problem. With wealthier countries gobbling up the first several batches, the orders here are trickling in. Vietnam started human trials on its own vaccine with 60 volunteers in Hanoi last week. So that is promising news. With so much uncertainty at this point, and the aggressive nature of this round, we really aren’t sure what to expect. Another six week lockdown, two months, who knows. The shop being closed is a tough hit for the family. But we fight, and we continue on.
Links and other information
At the publishing of this article. Vietnam’s total numbers nationwide since the outbreak began in late 2019 are 3,489 cases, 2,618 recovered, and 35 deaths.
Click Here for the entire collection of Dragon Diaries.
Or Click Here for an article about Da Nang and the surrounding provinces involving the newest outbreak.
And then Click Here for a crazy story of how Vietnam is considering “tagging” arrivals into the country.
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